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Messages - rich69rs

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1
General Discussion / Re: LED Bulbs Revisited
« on: August 17, 2018, 06:07:54 PM »
I have recently converted the following in my '69 RS to LED bulbs:

Sourced from Summit Racing, Sparks, NV:
1.  Part No. KCW-10784 Back Up Light Bulb, LED, White, 1156 equivalent
2.  Part No. RNB-211W-HP Inside Dome and Console Courtesy Light Bulb
3.  Part No. GRM-X-88 Front Side Marker LED Bulbs, Amber
4.  Part No. GRM-X-86 Rear Side Marker LED Bulbs, Red
5.  Part No. GTE-90941-5 LED Headlights

Sourced from Dapper Lighting, Novato, CA
1.  Phillips Part No.  1157R  (Red LED replacement for tailight/brake/turnsignal, 2 packs, 2 bulbs/pack, $20/pack)
2.  Phillips Part NO.  1157A (Amber LED replacement for front parking/turnsignal, 2 bulbs/pack, #20/pack)

There was some trial and error involved but so far so good for now.

1.  Originally I had also picked up the red and amber 1157 LED replacements that Summit offered.  However, these were no brighter than the original 1157 bulbs and the quality, IMO, was suspect.  Also, they would not work (flash) with the original OEM flasher in the fuse box.  So I returned them. 

2.  The other LED's that I picked up at Summit worked very well and are significantly brighter than original bulbs (headlamps/side markers/interior dome and console courtesy/back up). 

3.  One key objective was to wind up with much better headlight visibility than standard 7" lamps.  Also, I wanted something that looked quasi original; i.e. no halo rings, no center running light bar, etc.  The GTE LED headlamps from Summit fit that requirement to my satisfaction.  The  GTE LED headlamps are split, horizontally, into two sections (which you really don't notice unless you look closely).  The top half is low beam.  The bottom section is high beam.  The improvement in night time visibility with these new LED headlamps is very noticeable, and if aimed properly, are not a nuisance at all to oncoming traffic.

4.  During Hot August Nights last week in Reno, I visited with the folks at the Dapper Lighting booth.  They are a relatively small, special lighting company out of Novato, CA.  I explained to them how I had tried some LED bulbs from Summit in the tailight and front parking lights and wasn't satisfied with the brightness.  They showed me the Phillips "Ultinon LED" bulbs that they carry.  On their demo display they looked very bright.  There were also two other positives:  1)  PRICE:  They came priced @ $20/pack and there were two bulbs per pack.  Most of the time you will find that someone's (Summit, Rock Auto, etc.) prices will run $15-20 for a single 1157 LED equivalent bulb.  2)  No replacement flasher unit required for most installations.  The Phillips Ultinon LED 1157 equivalent will work with most OEM flasher units.

5.  The brightness of the tailights/turnsignal/stop functions with the new Phillips 1157R (red) bulbs is very noticeable, even during the dailight here in the bright northern Nevada sun.

6.  I tried to install one of the Phillips 1157A (amber) LED bulbs in one of the front parking light/turn signal sockets and for some reason, it wouln't seat properly.  I put the standard amber 1157 bulb back into the socket, it seated properly, and for the time being I'm not going to dig any deeper into that issue.

A couple of things to remember:

1.  LED bulbs, unlike the original bulbs, have a polarity.  On the 1157's they only go in one way so you don't have to worry about polarity.  On the dome, side marker lights, etc. where you push the bulb into the socket;  if you install it and it doesn't come on, remove it and flip it over.  Once you get the polarity correct, all should be good.

2.  A good many LED replacements for the rear tailight/brake/turn signal and front parking/turn signal are not compatible with the OEM flasher in the fuse box.  LED flashers are available from multiple sources.  Once again, one of the advantages of the Phillips 1157 bulbs, they worked just fine with my OEM flasher.

3.  LED 1157 and side marker replacements are available in amber, red, and white.  I strongly recommend that you do not use white.  Use the red or amber LED equivalent based on the lens color.  A very bright white 1157 LED can blead through the lens showing some white when all you should see is red or amber.


Richard


2
General Discussion / Re: Oil pressure at idle
« on: May 19, 2018, 11:51:17 PM »
Drove to Reno and back today for the Hot August Nights sponsored “Spring Fever Revival" show and shine in downtown Reno (roughly a 100 mile round trip).

Took the following pics of my console oil pressure gage - readings are typical for my 327:

1.   Driving - coolant temp just starting to come up.
2.   Coolant temp just got to normal - at idle
3.   Coolant temp normal - after driving about 40 miles @ 65 mph
4.   Coolant temp normal - idle after driving 40 mile

3
Originality / Re: 69 SB Fuel Line Routing
« on: April 21, 2018, 07:57:51 PM »
I couldn't find much detail on the fuel line routing for my 350/300 SB.  My routing does not seem correct but "kinda" matches the AIM.  Most 350's I see have a primary line running from the carb toward the center of the motor to a fuel filter.  That line passed behind the water pump down to the fuel pump.  I attached a couple pics.  I can't tell where the smaller fuel line goes and it's purpose.  I have generic fuel filter installed (former owner) and it seems to be starving for fuel.  I just want to eliminate that as a problem.  Here is my confusion:

- Where does the smaller line on the fuel filter go?
- Did all 350's have the fuel filter and fuel line running behind the water pump?
- Is the AIM diagram a different version but still correct?

Also, my understanding, which is what the AIM shows in your 2nd attachment, is that, from the factory, the fuel line section between the fuel pump and carb was hardline (steel tubing) with screw fitting connections - no "rubber" fuel line with clamps used on the discharge pressure side of the fuel pump due to the increased potential for a leak and possibe fire.

If you haven't seen it, the following CRG report on Camaro Carburetor Useage might also be helpful.  http://www.camaros.org/carb.shtml

Richard

4
Original Cars and Details / Re: Family survivor 69 Camaro
« on: April 16, 2018, 04:16:49 PM »
Don’t loose that metal tag under the screw on the front of the carb - it is the part number tag and should have a date code and perhaps some other info.  Since it has the tag, probably no part no. on the carb body itself. 

5
Garage Talk / Re: Attending Hot August Nights - Virginia City Nevada
« on: April 07, 2018, 03:39:34 PM »
I don't know how they organize the cruising now a days, but back then you could cruise down Virginia and all the other streets registered or not, it was a blast. You would be in pleasant traffic moving at a slow enough pace to check out all the cars around you. The sights and sounds of being surrounded by all those candy colored paint jobs, chrome and deep tone exhaust created a lot of good memories.

Yup, crusin' in the evening is still very much a big part of HAN.  Formal HAN sponsored cruises occur from Wed-Sat nights in downtown Reno down Virginia St and under the "Reno Arch" and down Victorian Ave in Sparks through Victorian Square.  Some of the casinos sponsor their own events.  The Atlantis sponsors their Cruise of Champions for example.

First pic below is downtown Reno cruise, second pic is Cruise of Champions photo  (ignore the guy behind the wheel)

Richard

6
Garage Talk / Re: Attending Hot August Nights - Virginia City Nevada
« on: April 07, 2018, 03:23:16 PM »
PS.  I thought the first HAN was actually in late July... as that's when our conventions always occurred, but perhaps the two organizations moved the date and I'm just not remembering it...?

Almost, from the history page of the HAN website:

"During an evening night on August 1, 1986, the Reno-Sparks Convention Center was bursting at the seams with hundreds of revelers who were partying, cheering and pushing to be let in to a first-time event of a magnitude yet to be realized. Inside, 10,000 spectators were massed together in anticipation of seeing and hearing a live event of the Righteous Brothers, Wolfman Jack, and Jan & Dean!  It was that night when nostalgia was unleashed among an audience who excitedly relived their childhood years of the 50’s and 60’s- a time of innocence, prosperity, cars and the birth of Rock and Roll. The weather was HOT, the month of AUGUST was right, therefore, HOT AUGUST NIGHTS was born!

The aim of Hot August Nights was to fill a void in tourism in Reno during the month of August and to raise money for local charities. The first concert was held in the Convention Center parking lot where most hadn’t danced to “that” music, to a live band, under the stars, since high school. The memories flooded back and so did the desire for more!  The first year of Hot August Nights was more of a nostalgia event than a car event. But it was the car parade that was the highlight of the Event for the participants and the crowds who thronged Virginia Street. The car owners were thrilled to show off their cars. They’d never had so many people “oohing and aahing” over their “works of art”. It was a proud moment for classic car owners."


I moved out here in 2001 (first year I went to HAN) so the 1st event was before my time....but boy what an event it has grown into.

Richard

7
Garage Talk / Re: Attending Hot August Nights - Virginia City Nevada
« on: April 06, 2018, 07:11:54 PM »
Am I the only one who read this title and immediately thought of Neil Diamond's 'Hot August Night' album?  ;D

Mike

The 1st "Hot August Nights" occurred in Aug 1986 - a small event which grew in size very quickly in the following couple of years.

I've never heard anyone make a direct connection between the 1972 live album by ND and the event "Hot August Nights".... but you gotta believe that the connection must have been made in someone's mind back when they were trying to come up with a name for the event.

Richard

8
Garage Talk / Re: Attending Hot August Nights - Virginia City Nevada
« on: April 06, 2018, 05:26:06 PM »
If memory serves me right there is a castle on Lake Tahoe.  There is an old paddlewheeler that goes out onto the lake.  I know there is a boating museum at Lake Tahoe with a lot of restored old boats.  Not too far away going toward California on I80 at Donner Lake is a museum and statue honoring the Donner Party that mostly perished due to an early snowstorm in the winter of 1846-47 on their way to California that trapped them on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas.  Hope this helps. 

The "castle" is on an island in Emerald Bay (South Lake Tahoe) and was originally built by a wealthy lady as a tea house "get away" for her and her guests back in the 1920's if memory serves.  There are a couple of paddle wheelers that take you on a tour around S. Lake Tahoe and will go past the island in Emerald Bay.  See photos.

The Donner Party got stuck at what is now "Donner Lake" near Truckee, CA (N. Lake Tahoe) and there is a state park there - worth seeing if you have the time.  And if you get there, the town of Truckee, CA which you will be very close to, is worth an afternoon visit as well.

Very important things to remember about coming here, especially in August.

The "valleys" where Reno, Carson City, Minden/Gardnerville are located are all at 4500 feet give or take.

Lake level is 6200 feet.

It will be hot in the afternoon, 90's for sure, 100 is not out of the question.

Because of the elevation and summer temps, relative humidity in the afternoon can easily be in the single digits.

Due to the low humidity, your sweat will actually evaporate quickly and your skin, for the most part, will stay dry.  Danger here is dehydration without realizing it.  Drink lots of water during the day.

Due to the elevation and low humidity, the sky is "high and blue" - the ultraviolet index reading can easily reach 8-9.  Sunburn is a real concern.  Many folks come up here from sea level and think that since they can be out in the sun
back at home and don't burn, that there is nothing to worry about here.  That is not true.  The U/V can be and usually is very high in the summmer afternoons.  Hats, cool clothing, plenty of sunscreen, and shade are critical items.

Richard


9
Original Cars and Details / Re: Family survivor 69 Camaro
« on: March 31, 2018, 03:31:34 PM »
Just 4 bolts and the fan is off. I'm mostly interested if there are #'s on the fan blades and a pic of the clutch.
Flattened end dip stick.
What's the overall length of the lug wrench?
Yup, pics of some parts will be when you take things apart.

Interesting that it has the optional (RPO K02) 7 blade fan and clutch.  Standard would have been the fixed 4-blade fan.

When I rebuilt the 327 in my ride and upped the compression ration to 10.5:1, I discovered just how marginal the stock cooling system was and that after the rebuild, the stock cooling system was right on the edge. 

I converted from the 4 blade fixed fan to 7 blade, temperature control clutch arrangement, sealed up any leakage paths I could find between the core support and the radiator and that eliminated any cooling issues that I was experiencing.  Key was getting more air through the stock 3 core radiator. 

The optional 7 blade fan really made a difference.  That is a nice option to have.

Good luck.

Richard

10
Garage Talk / Re: Attending Hot August Nights - Virginia City Nevada
« on: March 31, 2018, 03:15:39 PM »
I would like to attend Hot August Nights and would like to talk to someone that has been there.
I have been to the web site and see it runs for the whole week Aug 3rd thru the  11th. Any insight would be appreciated. Recommend place to stay or days to attend. I would be visiting from Florida and hope to visit Lake Tahoe also.
Terry Marries
248.709.9685

Terry,

Good to hear that you'll be attending this year.  It is a great time and you will enjoy it.  Each year, since 2001 when I first attended after moving to the area (I live in Minden, NV about 50 miles south of Reno) I have blocked out the 1st week of August as personal vacation time to attend HAN.  It is a great time and I have had my '69 RS registered in the event each year since 2009.    As far as I know, HAN is probably the biggest car show that occurs in one metropolitan area in the U.S. with about 6000 registered classic rides and probably another 2000 or so that aren't registered.  (Cruisin' the Coast along the Mississippi Gulf coast in Oct probably has more registered rides, but it is spread out between Pass Christian and Pasgagoula, MS whereas HAN occurs in the single metropolitan area of Reno/Sparks.)

I would definitely get your hotel reservation confirmed asap.  If you can get a room at either the Grand Sierra, Atlantis, or Peppermill Resort/Casinos you would be in the middle of the activity.  Another good place would be Harrah's in downtown Reno.  Wherever you stay, be sure and check what parking accommodations will be available (assume that you will have a rental car) especially if you stay at the Grand Sierra, Atlantis or Peppermill.  The north shore of Lake Tahoe is about a 30 minute drive from Reno, easily accessible, good highways, etc. 

The event in Virginia City (Aug3-4) is a weekend precursor to the main event the following week in Reno and the adjacent city of Sparks, NV.  The Virginia City "kickoff weekend" event originally was held at S. Lake Tahoe but was moved to Virginia City a few years ago. 

The following week (5-12 Aug), the main event occurs in Reno/Sparks with venues at the:
  • Grand Sierra Resort/Casino
    Atlantis Resort/Casino
    Peppermill Casino/Resort
    Victorian Square in Sparks
    Nugget Casino/Resort in Sparks
    Downtown Reno
    and a few other smaller venues as well.
 
Each of the major venues will draw hundreds of cars.  The Grand Sierra Resort is the largest venue and probably has close to 1000 cars at that location alone.  Some folks move around and park at different venues during the week, some set up base camp at one venue and go from there.  A lot of activities occur including ongoing musical entertainment at the major venues, special entertainment at various locations each evening, crusing, drag races at the Nugget, drifting at a special course set up for the event, swap meet (Thus-Sat), and a car corral with rides for sale.  Usually there is an auction as well, haven't heard if that will occur this year.

From a scheduling perspective, after the weekend in Virginia City, there is basically some down time until about Wed of the following week when the main HAN activities really kick into gear.  From Sun-Tues there are several "kick off" show and shine "parties" that occur (including ones held at the Atlantis and Peppermill Resort/Casinos) that provide an opportunity for locals and other non-registered HAN vehicles to get in on the fun.  Beginning Wed., if you want to park your ride at one of the official venues you have to be a registered HAN attendee.

Look forward to meeting with you while you are out here.

Richard



11
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...huh?
« on: December 01, 2017, 05:29:03 PM »
He invested $100K into that?!?

I don't see it.
From personal experience, a really nice paint job, starting with taking the car to bare metal, can easily be 15-20% of that number - or higher - depending on how much body work. 

Then you have the LS engine, T56 6 speed, suspension, wheels, LABOR, etc, etc, it can add up quickly.  If the car was turned over to a restoration shop (turnkey restoration) to do everything, parts were probably only about 40% of the cost of the project -60% of it was shop labor.  It can add up very quickly.




10-4   Thanks    Didn't catch that.

12
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...huh?
« on: December 01, 2017, 05:28:25 PM »
He invested $100K into that?!?

I don't see it.
From personal experience, a really nice paint job, starting with taking the car to bare metal, can easily be 15-20% of that number - or higher - depending on how much body work. 

Then you have the LS engine, T56 6 speed, suspension, wheels, LABOR, etc, etc, it can add up quickly.  If the car was turned over to a restoration shop (turnkey restoration) to do everything, parts were probably only about 40% of the cost of the project -60% of it was shop labor.  It can add up very quickly.



13
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...huh?
« on: December 01, 2017, 05:11:04 PM »
I guess I’m a little dense this morning - what is the concern? 

Car is not being presented as anything other than how he describes it - a pro touring resto mod - spelling issues and $100k not withstanding

Richard

14
The question is why are the U-joints out-of-phase?

The answer is for reducing vibrations.
Graph the power through a single U-joint and a sine wave is drawn. The joint speeds up, positive arc, and slows down, negative arc.
Add another U-joint and its power graph will have the same sine wave.
Add the two sine waves, if they are in-phase on the same shaft, and amplitude doubles, meaning the resultant twist is noticeable.
By offsetting one joint by 30°, decreases the amplitude of the associated twist, less vibration.
Now, driveshaft's having been built forever, and 1st Gen driveshaft's are different from typical design, may be due to the extreme angularity of drivetrain design on Camaro, i.e., wheelbase, length of shaft, OD and wall thickness, and critical speed of driveshaft.

Critical speed is important - it is rocket science.

I have to disagree - that’s not how a double Cardan joint (U-joint) works.  Refer to page 3, 3rd post of this thread and search : driveshaft, rich69rs for other posts where this has been discussed previously.

I have my theory as to why Chevy did this - but since the forum hasn’t pursued the question seriously,  I haven’t either.  Of all the driveshafts built by all the auto makers, over all the years, ‘69 Camaro, SB, TH350, manual, and Powerglide got offset yokes, yet, as I recall BB w/TH400 transmissions didn’t???

As far as critical speeed (resonance) goes, offsetting the yokes will definitely stiffen the driveshaft and shift a natural frequency(cies) up - but at the expense of proper operation of a double u-joint system which is designed to keep the included angles of the driveshaft equal at all times.

With offset yokes, the included angle between the differential and the driveshaft will be different at all times from the included angle between the driveshaft and the transmission.  Stiffer driveshaft system? Undoubtedly.  Ideal for loading on either the diff or tans?  Not so much.  I modified my driveshaft to in line yokes back in 1991. 

15
Restoration / Re: complete brake booster for drum brakes: parts numbers
« on: September 08, 2017, 01:45:08 AM »
I would concur with the suggestion to check with NAPA for a rebuild kit.  That is where I got my rebuild kit.  Disassembly is easy.  A little air into the port in the bottom of the reservoir will push both the primary and secondary pistons out if they are stuck.  I was lucky with mine - did not require resleaving.  Just a clean up and light honing of the cylinder with a brake cylinder hone.

Biggest issue was "gunk" which was the result of moisture entering the system.  I am a very big fan of DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.  Eliminates that problem and if you happen to dribble a little on a painted surface, no problem.  Pic shows my master cylinder after disassembly.  Also, don't forget that there are check valves behind the brake line connections to hold some pressure in the lines when your foot is off of the brake - keeping the shoes just barely in contact with the drums.  That way when you push on the brake pedal, the shoes don't have to move as far to fully engage the drums.

Good luck

Richard

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