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Topics - rich69rs

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1
Garage Talk / GENTLEMEN – I AM CONFUSED, NEED YOUR INSIGHT
« on: February 16, 2025, 05:26:29 PM »
Although, not a Camaro topic, this is related to our Camaros in a general sense.

The following involves the dash clock in my ’66 Chevelle Malibu and the fact that my knowledge of the electrical side of things is not my strong suit.  A little background….

Originally, the clock in my Chevelle had an auto-wind mechanical movement manufactured by Westclocx.  It had constant +12v dc connected to it to provide power to the coils that were part of the auto-wind function.

The clock quit working a long time ago and in 2000, while I had the dash completely disassembled, I removed the clock from the instrument cluster and sent it to a vendor to be converted to a quartz movement.  Afterwards, the clock worked well until about 5 years ago when the hour hand quit moving.

This past December I began a series of “punch list” items on the Chevelle which included removing the A/C Heater control unit, cleaning and upgrading the slide levers from the original pot metal to stamped steel levers, lubricating the Bowden cables, etc.  With the AC/Heater control unit out of the way I also now had additional access to remove the clock for servicing.

In early December 2025, I shipped the clock to a well-known auto instrument servicing/repair company in the Rockford, IL area.  It was returned to me mid-January with instructions to bench test the clock prior to reinstalling and to ensure that the +12v DC power supply to the clock has a 1-amp fuse in the circuit.  I had planned on bench testing anyway and so far, so good.

The clock ran on the bench for 3 days without issue.  I then reinstalled the clock  in the car, and it ran for approximately 7 hours before stopping.  Go figure.  I tapped the back of the clock, and it ran again for a few minutes and then stopped.  I called the repair shop, explained the situation and even sent them a short video showing the clock running after being reinstalled in the car.  I also told them that I had bench tested the clock for 3 days prior to reinstalling it in the car using the 12v DC battery shown in the attached picture.  They said for me to send the clock back to them, which I did.  I just received it back on 15 Jan.  It currently is being tested, connected to its constant +12v DC power source in the car, prior to to re-installing it in the dash sometime next week.

It was extremely difficult to get any meaningful response from the vendor after I sent the clock back to them.  For example, when questioned as to what was wrong with the clock, all I got back was ”the gears needed adjusting” which didn’t tell me very much.
 
Now, here is where my confusion begins………

After I told the vendor that I had bench tested the clock for 3 days prior to reinstalling it in the car using a Duracell 12v DC battery, the vendor responded, “ IF YOU TEST THE CLOCK OUTSIDE OF THE CAR, PLEASE BE SURE TO USE A 12V CAR BATTERY PER OUR TECHNICIANS”.   I asked for clarification and the response was that it is due to the “battery’s capacity” and that “in the past they had had a clock stop during a bench test when using something other than a car battery”.

My confusion is that in my mind, this quartz clock looks out to the world through its +12v DC and case ground connections and asks for ANY +12v DC source that can supply something on the order of 200 mA to the clock.  (I’m not sure exactly what the milliamp draw is, but remember, this is a 1 amp fused power supply, and I would be surprised if the current draw is much more than 200 mA).

Any ideas why the vendor would insist on using a car battery to bench test the clock and reference the capacity of the battery as being the reason?

The vendor is a very reputable provider of repair services for automotive clock, speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauges, oil gauges, battery gauges, amp gauges, temperature gauges, gas tank sending, etc. and has been around since 1979 with a significant business presence.  They are not a mom-and-pop garage operation.

Consequently, I must be missing something, but I can’t figure out what. 

Any and all feedback would be appreciated.

2
6-cylinder Camaros / 6 Cylinder Air Cleaner Base
« on: September 26, 2024, 10:17:01 PM »
Found this air cleaner base while cleaning out some old inventory - probably have had it for at least 25 yrs.

If anyone wants it - yours for cost of prepaid shipping.

You can contact me @ grtnev@aol.com.

Richard

3
General Discussion / 1004 Hp 2023 COPO Camaro
« on: December 19, 2022, 05:21:01 PM »
https://www.foxnews.com/auto/horsepower-copo-chevrolet-camaro-most-powerful-muscle-car

https://www.motor1.com/news/627180/2023-chevrolet-copo-camaro-zz632/amp/

Sure this is reported elsewhere but I’m just now getting up to speed.

For the track only - not street legal.

Richard

4
Maintenance / A Few Thoughts on Turn Signal Troubleshooting
« on: July 15, 2022, 09:18:07 PM »
From time to time, questions arise on the forum regarding turn signal, brake light, etc. trouble shooting.  I recently had an issue with my left front turn signal so I thought I'd share the approach I used to identify, isolate, and resolve the issue - perhaps someone else may benefit.

My car is a 1969 Norwood built, 01C, Rally Sport.

Before beginning any electrical troubleshooting, I strongly recommend obtaining a complete package of the colored wiring diagrams for your car!!  Tracing wiring with these colored diagrams is infinitely easier than trying to use black and white diagrams.  Having these color coded wiring diagrams will save you time and headaches.

1969 Camaro - Both the left and right FRONT turn signals function as follows:

I.   Switched 12v source from the Fuse Panel supplies power via a 12 gauge pink wire to the turn signal flasher which is located under the dash on a support near the ash tray.

II.   14 gauge purple wire from the turn signal flasher supplies power to the turn signal switch in the steering column via the flat connector on the right side and toward the base of the column.

III.   When the left turn signal is switched on, power is supplied via the turn signal switch through the flat connector to two 20 gauge wires:
      a) light blue wire for the left front, and
      b) a yellow wire for the left rear. 
Both wires connect to separate terminals on the dash side of the bulkhead connector at the firewall.

IV.   An additional 20 gauge light blue wire connects to the light blue wire terminal on the dash side of the bulkhead connector and provides power to the left turn signal indicator light in the instrument panel.

V.   Focusing on the front left turn signal; the 20 gauge light blue wire continues from the engine side of the bulkhead connector to the front of the left inner fender where it connects to the left turn/park lamp assembly wiring harness via a "T-Connector". 


5
Maintenance / Left Turn Signal Issue and Resolution
« on: May 05, 2022, 09:26:55 PM »
The moral of the following is to always check the simplest thing first.

Back in the summer of 2018, I converted the majority of the lamps/bulbs in my '69 RS to LED.  This included the:  headlamps, interior dome and console courtesy bulbs, the side marker bulbs, rear turn signal/brake bulbs, and taillight bulbs.  I did not convert the front turn signal bulbs but left them as original; i.e. the 1157NA filament type bulbs so that there would be enough circuit resistance for both the mechanical turn signal and hazard flashers to function properly.

Everything worked fine up until a short time ago when the left turn signal began to flash slowly (with the engine running and the charging circuit at 14.4 volts) or not at all with the engine off (battery voltage at 12.5 volts).

My initial thought was that the front left turn signal bulb (1157NA) was bad.  I removed the bulb and the first thing I noticed was that both filaments looked good.  I checked the bulb for continuity between both button contacts on the bottom and the outside of the bulb and confirmed that the bulb was indeed good.  Since I had a spare bulb, I changed it anyway.

Still had the same issue.  With the engine running - left turn signal slow flash; with the engine off - left turn signal no flash.  Additionally I noted that with the engine running it was only the left rear turn signal (LED) that was flashing.  The left front (1157NA filament bulb) turn signal was not flashing at all.

Keeping with the thought process of check the simplest things first, I removed and reinstalled the hazard flasher (on the fuse box).  This had no affect - I didn't expect it would as this was the hazard flasher and not the turn signal flasher.  I then removed the turn signal flasher (which is secured in a clip on a brace under the dash in the vicinity of the ash tray/lighter) and reinstalled it.

Well, I'll be.  After removing the turn signal flasher and reinstalling it, everything works just fine.  I have no idea why this made a difference.  The flasher was securely installed in the harness before I removed it.  Additionally, since this obviously is not a digital system, "re-booting" a mechanical flasher shouldn't have changed anything - but somehow it did and at this point, I am not going to question the result or dig any further in an effort to grab defeat from the jaws of victory.

I have included a picture of this circuit for reference.

Just a FYI story.

Richard

6
FYI - Refer to the attachments in this post and the next two posts:

"All 1968 and some 1969 Chevrolet equipped with the Quadrajet 4-barrel carburetor have a type of fast idle cam that could crack and eventually separate from the carburetor. If this occurs, a section of the cam could become lodged in the throttle linkage and cause the throttle to be held in a partially open position. If this should occur while the vehicle is in motion, the vehicle will not slow down when the driver removes his foot from the accelerator pedal. While this is a remote possibility, if it does occur, the driver should shift the transmission into neutral, apply the brakes and bring the vehicle to a complete stop.

Install a new type fast idle cam on vehicles involved in this campaign in accordance with the instructions in this bulletin."


Applies to all 1968 and 1969 prior to LOS VIN L-523411 and Norwood VIN N-599752 (approximately mid-February 1969).

Richard


7
Garage Talk / First Car Show of the Year - Felt Really Good!
« on: May 06, 2019, 10:44:20 PM »
Here in the Carson Valley in northern Nevada, the days are warming up and this past Saturday was the first car show of the year for me...a local event, combination car show/bar-b-que, hosted by our church and open to anything driven by a motor.  This was the 8th year for this event and there were about 65 local rides in attendance.  Parked the '69 RS and the 2011 SS side by side. 

The 17th-18th is Hot August Nights "Spring Fever Revival" in Reno which will be the next one on the calendar.

Richard

8
Garage Talk / My First Camaro - What was Yours?
« on: August 17, 2017, 11:40:54 PM »
Cleaning out some old documents today and came across this.  It is the dealer invoice copy of the first Camaro I owned - a 1976 sports coupe.

I had graduated from college in late Aug 1975 and took my mechanical engineering degree to my first job in Deer Park, TX (Houston suburb - on the industrial/ship channel corridor).  Within a month I had purchased my first Camaro from Timmers Chevrolet in Pasadena, TX - a 1976 Camaro Sports Coupe - and although from a performance standpoint, she couldn't get out of her own way - she was mine - all mine, my first Camaro.  I clearly remember that I had negotiated an out of the door total cost (car, tax, title, license, etc.) for $5,000 - and I felt pretty good as a brash 22 yr old.

The poor car had a horribly detuned, EGR equipped, 305 CID engine with a Rube Goldberg assortment of hoses and vacuum lines running all over the place - early attempt at emission controls.  The heat riser valve was actually operated via a vacuum canister mounted up on the passenger side of the engine that either left the valve closed or opened it based on vacuum to the canister.  What a mess.  The 305 was rated at 140 HP at the flywheel, and if I got 90 to a 100 HP at the rear wheels I was lucky.  Top speed, flat out, pedal to the metal, long straight run of highway was 90-95 mph.  The mid to late 70's was not the high point of Detroit manufacturing prowess to say the least.....but she was mine all mine.  A pretty car, by mid-70's standards with Firethorn Red Metallic paint.

I kept that car until mid-1988 when a growing family and other transportation needs dictated that it was time to sell - which I did via a private sale to a lady for $1500.

When I sold the car, the door hinges were in need of replacement.  That car had some big, heavy doors on it and by 1988 the hinges were showing the strain of supporting those heavy doors.

All good fun.

Richard

9
Garage Talk / A Beautiful Day in Northern Nevada
« on: March 02, 2017, 08:26:47 PM »
Finally getting a little break in the weather in between winter storms.  Just had to get the '69 out for a drive today. 

The mountains in the background are the Sierra Nevada with the highest peaks varying from 10,400 to close to 10,900 feet.  The pictures were taken in Gardnerville, NV (a little south of Carson City, NV in the Carson Valley (approx. 4750 feet in elevation).

It just doesn't get any better for taking the car out for a drive.

Richard

10
General Discussion / Hot August Nights 2015; Reno, NV 3-9 Aug
« on: July 28, 2015, 03:56:56 PM »
Anyone going to be there this year?  I'll be taking my annual 10 days of vacation for HAN, beginning tomorrow.  Prep and some local cruise-ins this weekend.   Show really begins next Tuesday, week from today.  Barrett-Jackson begins Thursday, 6 Aug and runs through Sat 8 Aug.

http://hotaugustnights.net/

http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Home/RenoTahoe-2015/09dcb5bf-b9f6-41d9-918b-d2720ce3f6c6


Richard

11
General Discussion / Various Car Movie Clips
« on: January 16, 2015, 10:49:22 PM »
Ran across this link: http://www.tvraaca.org/oldmovies.htm#story

Although probably well known to many, it was a new one to me - thought I'd share it here.

....and be sure to use the Internet Explorer "Find" (search) function to search the list of clips with the words "muscle" and "Camaro" along with any other searches.

Although the clip re: '67 Camaro that will come up with the Camaro word search is good, the one you get by searching "muscle" is even better IMHO.

Richard

12
A little late posting this due to being out of town for the last 10 days on business, but to make a long story short, during the introduction to the Barrett-Jackson Auction that was part of Hot August Nights in Reno on Friday, 1 August, of all the cars that they could have used, my '69 RS was part of the opening sequence.  

They (FOX Sports 1) began from inside the auction hall showing a couple of the cars that would come up on the block, then went across the street to the Atlantis Hotel Resort Casino which is one of the venues for Hot August Nights (over 6500 registered classic rides - by far the largest car event that I know of in North America - lasts for 10 days).  I had reserved VIP parking at the Atlantis venue and had gone across the street to the convention with my son-in-law to watch the auction.  All the time not knowing that across the street, my ride was on national tv.

I didn't realize my car had been on until the later that weekend.  I had recorded the auction on the DVR and when I played it back - guess what I saw!

The FOX Sports 1 commentator is April Rose and she spent quite probably 30 seconds or so with my car before moving on to another ride.  Picture below isn't the best - hard to take a good photo off of the tv, but anyway you get the idea.

Richard

13
General Discussion / Got My '69RS Back From Paint and Body
« on: April 14, 2014, 01:05:22 AM »
Just sharing a little happiness on my end.  I bought the car on 1 Nov 1991 and over the years have had it apart and have been completely through it mechanically.  On 3 September last year I dropped it off at the restoration shop in Sparks, NV (Reno).  It went down to bare metal, body came apart, glass came out along with 70% of the interior.  Front buckets were recovered with new foam and springs repaired as necessary.  New custom door panels (I have my originals, but they were cracking in the arm rests).  Inner fenders, license plate brackets, misc. bracketry under the hood, and the wheels were all powder coated.

I picked it up this past Tuesday, 8 April....just in time for spring time in northern Nevada and a multiplicity of car shows and events that begin in ernest next month.

Post with pictures:  1 of 4

Richard

14
Amazing Survivor Chevrolets & More! Lambrecht Chevrolet Company Auction End of September

I don’t believe this – stuff urban legends are made from.

Guy owned a Chevy dealership in Nebraska for almost 50 years (reminds me of the old Chevy dealership here in Minden).  Cars that didn’t sell – he kept.  Some of these cars have 1.5 to 10 miles on the odometer.  Other than being dirty and needing some serious TLC, many are essentially new cars that are 50 something years old and have never been titled.

Auction is end of Sept – I need to find a reason to be there.  Apparently a lot of other dealer related items, manuals, memorabilia, etc . to be auctioned off as well.

http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/08/20/vintage-chevy-auction-to-deal-in-low-mileage-gems/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmCSv3wzOfU

http://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auctions_details.php?detail=135

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General Discussion / American Car Brochures:
« on: February 10, 2012, 10:08:14 PM »
Many may already know of this site, but I just found it and thought it might be of interest -

http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html

The Chevy Brochures span from 1914 to 2010

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