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Messages - dutch

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The replies were much appreciated - Thanks!

Thanks for the confirmation - I really thought so but...
Were there any outliers or exceptions through any and all generations?

General Discussion / Small and Big Block Chev Bellhousing bolt patterns..
« on: February 11, 2020, 03:23:22 PM »
Sort of a strange question I admit - but can anyone tell me if the block bellhousing bolt patterns are the same or different between small and big block castings?
I have a very well built engine stand and I would like to sell it to free up some space and also for lack of need for it, but I can't find anywhere that confirms the block bolt patterns are different or the same..
I've always played with small blocks and welded up this stand for ones I had, but the question "would the fixed standoffs also allow a big block to be bolted up to it" and I really had no certain idea.. 
I'm pretty sure they would, considering most all of the transmissions interchange between them from what I know - but in saying that I realized I was somewhat assuming (you know how that works) and would like to get some better assurance that is the case before I try and advertise it..
Thanks for any input or comments!

General Discussion / Re: Help Id'ing an old Muncie Case & Tailshaft..
« on: October 17, 2019, 10:35:29 PM »
Yea - that is what I was thinking in that it could without a vin stamp on it, be considered a 'Born With' unit for anyone who has a need for a date coded M21 or M20 tranny for an appropriately dated car - but up here in Canada that is pretty much an extremely long shot to say the least..
The case is perfect and the ears have no cracks and the main shaft hole appears to have no wear on it since I've read where they often can get sloppy - so for anyone who can dredge up the proper internals it could be a perfect deal - but again I doubt there is much interest up here, but we'll see..
Again - Thanks to all who chimed in to assist me in figuring out what it was originally!   

General Discussion / Re: Help Id'ing an old Muncie Case & Tailshaft..
« on: October 17, 2019, 02:06:54 AM »
Thanks for all of the help with this today.
Not quite sure how to try and proceed with this as I'm not sure where its value if any resides or where to best try and advertise it.. but I'll give it a few days and look at some sites where the general MO is larger bodies cars like the Chevelle  or possibly GTO and Pontiac sites and see if there is a For Sale section that might give me some ideas or pricing of similar stuff to go by.
Much appreciated is the info certainly!

General Discussion / Re: Help Id'ing an old Muncie Case & Tailshaft..
« on: October 16, 2019, 06:14:32 PM »
January 8 is the build date. Would be Jan 8, 1964 if the case has "PAT.PEND." cast on it.  " US PATENT NO 3088336" would be a January 8, 1965 build. The 1965 case would also have a squared off upper extension housing boss. Not too many people are excited over 7/8" countershaft cases. Probably good for someone needing the specific model year Muncie. 
ADD: Grooves on the input shaft should help with M20 or M21

It does have US Patent 3088336 cast on it - and I'm not sure where I got the May idea from - as I see your date code logic - just not sure what the '0' or 'O' means but I guess it is pretty old for sure..
No internals just empty case and tailshaft..
We're the 7/8" shaft versions all that poor - I can see why they might get upgraded, but I'm sure they were put in many very heavy vehicles around that timeframe..?
I t also has a couple of square bosses molded into the case next to the upper part of the rear flange so that may be what you refer to as the 'square bosses'..  THANKS!

General Discussion / Re: Help Id'ing an old Muncie Case & Tailshaft..
« on: October 16, 2019, 04:38:35 PM »
Ed - worth anything to anyone considering the age - or possible application possibilities in your estimation?

General Discussion / Help Id'ing an old Muncie Case & Tailshaft..
« on: October 16, 2019, 03:23:47 PM »
If anyone can shed some light on what I have shelved here and planning to get rid of - it would be much appreciated.
Aluminum Maincase - Casting Number 3851325 date code stamped P 0 18 (date code casting circle markings below the casting number are a 4 in upper half of the component casting circle with 3 dots in lower half) and it has what appears to be 7/8" mainshaft diameter bore hole..
Aluminum Tailshaft Housing - Casting Number 3846429 (speedometer hook up on the driver's side)
There is no VIN stamped on Maincase and boss for drain plug isn't drilled or threaded..
I know these are Muncie 4 speed bits - but other than that I'm limited and thinking earlier than 67 or 68 year and casting date marker makes it from the 4th month and 3rd week of whatever year it was produced in - as well as being a May 18th installation of whatever year also - and no drain hole means no M22.
The lack of VIN probably means prior to GM worrying about POP or warranty tracking like the late 67's or 68 versions and onward.
I'm thinking M20 or M21 but other than that is there anything else to add?
I'm hopeful of finding some more info before advertising it for sale - so I can be helpful of definitively and accurately assisting someone who may be looking for such bits for a specific year or model application.
Additionally could anyone add their impressions of what both of these might be worth - they are in excellent condition (no Sidecover unfortunately) and there are no cracks or wear marks in the ears or anywhere inside or out!
Thanks for any assistance!  Randy 

General Discussion / Re: 396 big block knock after warmup
« on: July 03, 2019, 03:50:13 PM »
OOPs I see from the video you have headers - which makes the Heat Riser theory mute.. but check the flange bolts at least for tightness just to make sure it isn't one of them rattling around loose..
Or your emergency cable or adjuster hook not hitting against the exhaust somewhere also!

General Discussion / Re: 396 big block knock after warmup
« on: July 03, 2019, 03:45:32 PM »
That noise is a strange one for me its sounds like a rattle in the exhaust when it gets warm and the metal expands.  A friend of mine had a muffler that rattled when it got hot.

Another thought........could the teeth of the starter be real close to the flywheel?  Maybe the starter gear is not retracting like it should.

Does your exhaust on the passenger side still retain its Heat Riser ?  They always clattered on any big block I ever had and I always tied them wide open with some wire to get rid of the noise if I was keeping the stock exhaust system on any cars I had.  The springs on them are supposed to open with the heat generated and often the spring either isn't strong sufficiently to hold the flap fully wide open once the housing gets warmed up and the flap inside the pipe just ends up fluttering around clattering with the various exhaust timing events and making quite a metallic clattering sound similar to what you have going on..

General Discussion / Re: building a 302
« on: February 14, 2019, 04:40:19 AM »
Seems to me I read on the TRW info specs that the tops can be cut 250 thou which I believe stated it would lower the cr from the intended 11:1 ratio for a .030" oversize L2210 AF piston down about a full point..
I have some that have been cut down - but exact amount - I'm not quite sure of though..
I'll try and find the actual printed copy of the spec sheet of the pistons I have somewhere and get back - if I manage to do so!

General Discussion / Re: Valuation of 1968 Z 2/8's in the US market..
« on: February 09, 2019, 03:04:50 PM »
Chick - Thanks - I appreciate your comments greatly! 
Thanks as well for the message(s) on Gmail.. No issues with the messages at all!
I rarely ever use that account anymore and mainly only if I have pictures to try and share as it seems to be more friendly in that sense than Hotmail from my limited experiences.
With the Gmail pictures I sent you in the past, it was the only way I could find that easily allowed me to take pictures with my old phone and get them into an email format easily that would work for me (and you as well!).
Hotmail is the main email address that I use - and I'm sorry for not responding often to some of your messages on Gmail as honestly, I very seldom use or even think to check it..

General Discussion / Re: Valuation of 1968 Z 2/8's in the US market..
« on: February 09, 2019, 04:09:14 AM »
side shot. A bit to high for my taste, but that how guys liked to run them BITD.
Assume the air shocks! Randy, u might want to have a list prepared of all the tough original items it has along with what it might not. Good example is radiator and tag, tire jack & date code, wheels and date codes, master cyl., brake booster, etc. Your plenty familiar with these rascals and time is on your side. It will help for potential buyers to make the leap and come take a look.
Randy, what other sometimes hard to find original parts are with car? See above!

Yep - air shocks and a tiny bit of a longer shackle to level it up with what I assumed were different springs installed somewhere in it's life for some reason. When I got the car, it sat a bit front end high - so I did the easiest things I could to make it sit level at least.
The air shocks just added a bit of load capacity and stiffened up the ride to boot.
Always hated that Camaros and Firebirds - a friend had one - seemed so soft (it turned me off buying a new '68 one after test driving a few Big Block ones in December '67 and instead I ordered a new SS396 Chevelle) and mushy in the back end and I wanted to insure if I my family came along for a ride or the back got loaded up some it wouldn't look like a 50's drag race car!
Don't have an original jack so no worries about date code for that obviously - the rad as far as I recall didn't have any tag - they were soldered on weren't they?
I'm not sure the tanks are original - I did get it recored in the mid '90's but I don't recall any brand names on the tanks or a tag at that point, although it does have what I assume to be generic fill level notations on the battery-side tank and had a petcock that looked OEM style - that got changed out because it was pretty hacked up.. Maybe I should take a closer gander at them - but I doubt the tag or remnant is there now.
Those kinds of things weren't deemed at all important back in those days - by me and I suspect most everyone else I'm reasonably sure!
I could write for hours about all it has and doesn't and the condition of everything and why I did what I did to it for various reasons and why not - but I'm sure t's just 'stuff' no one has the patience to read or would care at all!
When we discussed distributors - many of the pictures I sent you contained shots of date codes and casting numbers of some of the stuff I considered interesting and somewhat important.
Don't know if you still retain much or any of that (what was that a couple of years back) .. I hesitate now on dates obviously - due to my most recent gaffe when it comes recalling things or not..   :(

General Discussion / Re: Valuation of 1968 Z 2/8's in the US market..
« on: February 09, 2019, 03:32:37 AM »
Bryon - again.. I think why I assumed it wasn't correct was that the GM Vintage Services documentation I received when I purchased the package back in the mid '90's said the delivery was Feb 26th or 28th or something like that, and I assumed that it couldn't (the rear end) be installed the same day as delivery was slated to be - but I guess the 'delivery' date could actually be a lot of different things to different people or GM departments like.. (a) Scheduled to actually leave the factory assembly line (b) Picked up from the actual Norwood facility (c) or Actually strapped onto a rail car and sent off somewhere.
Maybe all of the paper trail sheets do have some bit of 'slack' in them too, despite what the date on the tags or shipping paper work actually says..
I'm not that familiar with how the Norwood, or how in fact any of the plant scheduling and paperwork meshed up or worked.. I'm sure it wouldn't certainly be as precise as today's plant more computerized schedules - but again I'm only speculating somewhat in saying that.. 

General Discussion / Re: Valuation of 1968 Z 2/8's in the US market..
« on: February 09, 2019, 03:17:10 AM »
I believe Bryon that the cast date code on the center section was 02/28/8 and the car is an 02D trim tag car.. don't quote me exactly and it's 30 below outside and my garage isn't heated - so I'm not crawling under it to check for certain.. maybe in a couple of weeks, or when I feel a lot better.. if I can't find the JM 'Definitive' book I wrote everything I found down in...

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