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Topics - dutch

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1
General Discussion / '68 Front Bumper Guards..
« on: March 21, 2017, 11:38:56 PM »
Don't have (can't find) it.. my AIM right now..  ::) as I'm sure it would tell me the answers to my questions here - but.. I was wondering if adding bumper guards to the front of a '68 required drilling any holes into the bumper itself or would leave any obvious ones in the valence if I installed some? 
I always had guards on the front and rear of my cars 'back in the day' and although I never really liked them all that much on Camaros, I must admit they have sort of grown on me in the past while and I would consider adding some to the front of 'ol Betsey if I don't have to do anything to the actual bumper or lower valance that wasn't really obvious or permanent in the way of marking either, so if the look doesn't do it for me, at some point in the future, I could always 'go back' easily!
Is there also a specific mounting point that all guards have to sit at in order to fit correctly or is the distance outwards from the centerline of the bumper open to preference of the installer or taste to a degree?
Thanks - Randy 

2
Decoding/Numbers / Water Pump Bypass fitting..
« on: January 12, 2017, 06:21:43 PM »
Another water pump question..
My '68 Z2/8 has a water pump that appears to have been changed at some point. If I recall, the casting number when I checked matches what Jerry's book said should be correct for the timeframe the motor was built in, but I couldn't find a stamp anywhere where it was suggested it would be.. 
There is a lot of paint on it, possibly if the stamping is there and light and I could have covered it with my overzealous paint skills!
Anyway - the pump has a plug in the top where a bypass fitting should be and from what I've read the bypass hose deal doesn't do much if anything to aid cooling - but I'd still like to make it appear somewhat more 'factory correct'- but I'm not sure how I can get the plug out without possibly ruining the pump itself.
I read where some pumps that aren't originals have the wrong diameter holes as well and this makes necessary some form of sleeve or adapter.
I did try a large box end and with some assistance from a hammer, managed to produce no apparent movement in the plug so I am assuming these after decades are going to be near impossible to remove without liberal use of heat and/or Liquid Wrench etc..
Suggestions as to the best way to get the plug in it now out - and if in fact it might be an original, can or will heat easily reduce the internals to crap easily?
Assuming I manage it (all things come apart in some way or another - eh?) -  if the hole diameter is in fact proven to be wrong for any such fitting, what would be the best and least apparent way to adapt it?

Thanks - Randy 

3
General Discussion / Sheet Metal Stamping info & ??'s
« on: November 30, 2016, 02:02:09 AM »
Saw a post that had someone's sheet metal stamp(s) mentioned and the question was what does this mean?
The answer was "the week it was produced" or something to that effect - followed by a mention of the Alphs character designating the stamping plant..
I can't find the thread now but it got me wondering where should I look for fenders, quarters, doors trunk lid etc. stamps (assume they all have a specific location for each type of piece) and exactly how should they relate to the build date of anyone's car.
I had notes of some I found on my Z 2/8 rear fenders inside the trunk near the seam - one was 'H' 08 and the other was harder to figure out but appeared to be an 'N' 7 - do these seem logical for a Norwood 02D build car and where would I look for other such stamps on trunk lids, front fenders, etc. etc.?
I may get a chance since the weather is extremely mild and snow-free here for this time of year (50's) vs normally -10 to -20 degrees with 12 to 24" of the white stuff and I may try and take a look at it in storage if I can follow some direction from you guys..  Thanks - Randy

4
General Discussion / First Gen dual exhaust hanger plates..
« on: November 08, 2016, 06:46:00 AM »
2 years ago I tried to help a guy I met, decide if he should take on a '68 project car he found locally. The car was reported to originally be a small block SS car (correct heater box) but without any rad / drivetrain and missing much of the interior and trim, I admitted to him finally that I really couldn't help him ID it much with the poor tag info '68's are obviously saddled with.
My best suggestion was for him to try GM Documentation Services and see what they could cough up if it was sold in Canada (Norwood tag) and because it did have a return fuel line (or what was left of one) I told him I thought that was a good SS starting point.. but when I went looking for the dual exhaust plate on the frame rail I couldn't see anything like I have seen pictured for '69's to suggest it may have had a dual exhaust option to further raise the SS possibilities.
Even though he finally passed on the car (too much work for his talents and bankroll) it always left me wondering - did '67's and '68's have exactly the same shape of welded on plate with the top and bottom 'U' shaped notches located on the rails like I have seen pictured for '69's?
If not, does anyone have a picture or two they could share showing what differences there are?
I did search around myself but other than more '69 vintage pictures I came up empty on earlier years..
My own Z was in dead storage at the time we looked at the car for him and is already put away now this year - and admittedly I never thought to look at it when it wasn't!
Saw him yesterday for the first time in a couple of years and it tweaked my memory..
Appreciate any and all responses and/or especially pictures! Thanks - Randy

5
General Discussion / Battery Cell Plug Colours?
« on: June 15, 2016, 05:31:15 PM »
I have some old battery Cell Plugs one being  a Delco Eye one and they are all very darkly coloured red on the script and circle that is in the centre of each.  Lately I've been seeing pictures posted that show the same script and broken circle painted with a very brightly version of red or yellow (colours depending on the year and application I assume)..
My question is.. I don't recall ever noticing such bright colours on these plugs from brand new when I bought and owned brand new cars in the late 60's through the early seventies..
Is this somewhat more of the 'restoration graffiti' that has crept in here and made recently reproduced colours on these much brighter than they were actually back in the day - or has my mind just faded (pardon the pun) so much that I have forgotten that they were so brightly coloured back 40 or more years ago?
I also have one very brightly scripted one - so I'm trying to decide if I should brighten mine all up to match what the current trend seems to be or leave them the dark red colour they currently have - Thanks Randy   

6
General Discussion / Best Repro Gas Tank..
« on: September 01, 2015, 03:34:58 AM »
Opinions on where to get a new gas tank that most closely resembles an original one for a '68.
I coated mine inside with an Eastwood kit probably 12 to 15 years back and I'm not sure if the coating has started to give up - but for the trouble of redoing it (if in fact that is possible) if that is what it ends up needing, I figure I would just replace it if there are good reproductions readily available in Canada..
Thought I saw a discussion or two regarding Spectra tanks being one of the best repro ones, years back - is that the case still or are there better, more accurate brands now available?
Thanks for any input - Randy

7
Maintenance / Intake Sealant..
« on: June 05, 2015, 10:11:27 PM »
I intend to remove my intake and reseal it in the next while and would like opinions as to what is generally considered best sealant is for the dams at the front and back ends of the manifold and around the water passages etc..
Whatever I used years ago has gotten soft and mushy and now lets some of the oil especially below where the filler neck (its a '68) is located, leak out after I have added some occasionally - not a lot - but enough to be messy if I don't keep at it..
Is there a preferred method of sealing (many have said to immediately set the manifold on a new bed of sealer without tightening it down for an hour or two to let it stick to both surfaces without collapsing the dam) and is there a preferred brand and/or type of sealer that works and lasts best than all others?
Thanks for any info - Randy

8
Maintenance / Fel Pro - gray bolt prep..
« on: May 06, 2015, 01:57:31 AM »
I assembled an engine a few years ago using Fel Pro gray bolt prep on the head bolts and never retorqued the bolts - although the head gaskets (also Fel Pro) were a type that specified as not needing it to be done.
Question - does anyone know if gray bolt prep remains flexible and useful enough to allow bolts to be retorqued at any point.
I do recall that it did specify that head bolts could be retightened after the first heat /cool cycle using it - but does anyone know if it would be possible even after a couple of years of moderate use - or will it have hardened up to a point where any additional tightening will just create more problems than it might fix?
Thanks - my understanding is that it is no longer available, if so are there any best alternatives to it? - Randy
 

9
General Discussion / Distributor Questions..
« on: August 24, 2014, 07:34:26 PM »
There has been quite a bit of discussion regarding distributors lately - but the one thing I really haven't seen is many comments regarding the advance weights in them.
I have a '266 distributor in my '68 Zed and I recall taking out the original weights when I put in a kit and changed (lightened) up the springs and used the aftermarket weights in it, a few years back.
Question I have - since I can't right now locate the weights that are original to my distributor is.. are all GM distributor weights the same or were some specific to certain distributors like the high performance versions in L78 and Z 2/8's or solid lifter motors?
I'm sure the weights I took out are around somewhere (I recall seeing them a while back somewhere - but you know how you can never find stuff when you need to - only to have it show up later when you aren't looking anymore?) but in the meantime I have a couple of other old distributors from regular performance 283 and 327 small blocks, and I am wondering if they would likely exactly the same and be just as good to use.
I was going to trash the Accel or Mr. Gasket ones in it now and return it to 'as built' with slightly heavier springs than what I have in it right now, since the car occasionally has a wandering idle and I feel it is probably a case of the springs being a bit too light to settle it back down, along with possibly the aftermarket weights possibly being a bit different from the GM original types as well..
Any suggestions or comments are much appreciated - Thanks - Randy
 

10
General Discussion / What's it Worth..?
« on: June 17, 2014, 04:40:29 AM »
Got a few guys bugging me about selling my '68 Z 2/8 and I honestly don't really have any clue what I would throw out for a price if one of them actually gets serious, but since I've come somewhat reluctantly to the realization that it sits stored 10 months of the year and I seem to get less and less time each passing year to enjoying driving and playing with it, I am entertaining the idea of my life minus it for the first time in 23 years..

Details..
Its a real Z'ed with GM Canada Vintage Service documentation - 64,000 original miles - no other paperwork unfortunately.
Repainted in 1980 - BC/CC red with black stripes and still reasonable - but originally PP (Seafrost Green) w/ black stripes.
Original S. Ontario dealer-sold car and I have traced back all of the previous 8 owners except the first who was rumoured to be an NHL player who played in the US and traded the car back into the original dealer after 1 hockey season.
Original (born with) engine and M21 trans. Rear appears to have replaced with an almost perfect date code 12 bolt - but axle tube stamp indicates it should be out of a '68 Nova?..  2nd owner who was both 2nd and 4th! told me he raced the car so maybe the rear let go at some point by 1972 1973?
Body is very nice and straight with only rear quarters being replaced (G M OEM full panels apparently by the 6th owner in 1980 when repainted red) due to anal tendencies for some apparently very minor wheelwell corrosion.
Very few options - standard black interior in very nice condition with only carpets and dash pad (old one I still have) not 'born with'.
OEM radio gone and 2 aftermarket rear speakers are only mods internally.
I have a cowl hood on it but still have original flat hood.
The hidden VIN stamps are there and match.
Presently the 302 shortblock sits on a stand in my basement for lack of affordable gas and in it's place is a 350 4 bolt with the original bits like heads intake etc. on it - the 302 was rebuilt with race quality bearings, Mains were studded and both they and rods have ARP fasteners and had all had clearances massaged to be perfect - it has .030 over TRW L2210AF pistons and the crank is polished and uncut. I don't have the original 4053 carb. 
Front and rear Spoilers were on the car from the 1980 repaint and are not original to the car.
The car was an early build model with most of the date coding in late Dec '67 and thus has some engine parts that are leftover '67 Z'ed bits like the 266 distributor.
Old pictures I saw and previous owners stated that it had the 302 front fender emblems and not the Z 2/8 ones now in place.
Underside of car is very solid but typical of a Canadian car has some crustiness and things like crossmember, controls arms, and rear, have some pitting as would be expected.
Everything like buzzers, wipers, lights etc. all work as new..
The only thing I haven't gotten around to - as it barely sees 200 miles a Summer at best - to shows and cruise nights - is the rear end is leaking somewhat at the pinion seal and it has a slight vibration telling me the pinion bearings and seal need replacement - but otherwise is very quiet.
Brakes are original including rotors, drums, master cylinder, and calipers (with seals and 'O' ring etc.) and all work amazing.
Front and rear bumpers could use new chrome but are somewhat passable - rest of SS and aluminum trim bits are in very good condition.
Glass is original with the exception of the Windshield which now is tinted.
Still has T3's, original marker light and rear lenses etc.

Lots more... and I could go on forever - but if a few of you who are market-savy would care to pass along some rough numbers to give me some starting point when and if I get up the courage when needed, it would be very much appreciated - Randy

PS - I know what the first response will be.. and I've never had any success posting pictures up here so I long ago gave up trying..

Thanks Again..   
     
 
 

12
Maintenance / Front Brake Hoses..
« on: July 31, 2013, 01:44:38 AM »
Can anyone recommend part numbers I could use to try and order some replacement front brake hoses for my '68 Z2/8?
Most Wagner-type listings I have referenced don't pull up appropriate part numbers for vehicles that old.
My pedal suddenly got very soft when I was getting home from storage back in early May.. (I'm almost ashamed to admit that it hasn't moved since) and the level in the master seems reasonable when I checked it in passing, last week - and I'm wondering if I have a hose or two getting soft as they were new back in the mid '90's and may be the problem now..
The front calipers aren't leaking at all and although I haven't pulled the back wheels off to check there is no leakage anywhere that I can see on the inside of them or the drums, so I'm thinking it most likely a hose expanding and giving me that soft feel.
I'm open to any other suggestions - since I plan on trying to figure this out next week, so I can try and get at least some usage out of the car before I have to put it back into Winter storage again..
Thanks - Randy


13
General Discussion / Shifter Boot...
« on: August 31, 2012, 02:59:38 AM »
I presently have a rubber shifter boot on my '68 Z/28 which always seemed kinda small or tight for the throws of the shifter handle. I now notice it is getting ripped where the handle protrudes through, from the pressure of the handle and appears it isn't the correct design for the job.
I have noticed a few other non-console Z/28's like mine pictured lately that seem to have boots which appear taller with at least one or more folds - allowing I assume, more back and forth movement, without tearing like mine has.
Can anyone recommend where I can one that best mimics an original in appearance yet maintains a reasonable price? The one I have was purchased many years back from a noted supplier (which I can't recall now) and was supposed to be "OEM replacement style" but obviously isn't proper.
Thanks for any help...

Randy

14
Mild Modifications / Speedometer gearing...
« on: August 25, 2012, 04:26:10 PM »
Not Camaro related - but GM nontheless...
A friend has a beautiful 57 Corvette with a ZZ3 crate engine in front of a GM Saginaw (3351325 casing) 4 speed and has an inaccurate speedometer. It reads out 70mph at an actual 60pmh GPS verified speed. The speed read out discrepancy continues at all speeds apparently as well - 30mph reading 40, 50 reading 60 etc..
Anyone have an idea as to how to rectify the problem?
He pulled out the gear at the tranny end of the speedo cable and tells me it is white with 19 teeth.
The car has a rear axle ratio of 3:70 or so according to him, and now has tires that are 205/70/15 in size..
I know all kinds of gears are available to correct similar problems - is this what he needs, are they still available from GM or somewhere else readily, and if so does anyone have any idea of what part number and colour of gear he should be looking for to correct such a problem?
Any assistance or advice is very much appreciated!
 Thanks in advance  - Randy 
   

15
General Discussion / What its Worth????
« on: May 12, 2012, 07:06:50 PM »
I have a good friend who has owned a very unique '65 Chevelle SS convertable since the mid eighties..
 He has finally decided after never really using the car much over all that time and plans to restore it never panning out - to try and find out what the market might be for it.
 I know I'll get "this is a Camaro site" - but please have some patience with me here as I try to determine how best for him to get some solid estimates as to what he could possibly be expecting for his:

   1965 Chevelle Super Sport Convertable with approx, 45,000 miles.. (I believe he is the 2nd owner)
   Western Canadian Car with solid GM Vintage Services documentation..
   Extremely solid sheet metal outside, inside, and under..
   Faded Regal Red paint with a few minor door dings and scratches and wear/White power top/Good original red bucket interior w/console
   and Seat Belts..
   Small block / Powerglide drivetrain / PS & PB / Power Top & Power Tinted Windows etc..
   Originally a GM Canada Show and Display Car in 1964-1965 as per documentation..
   3rd Chevelle (VIN #0003) - with August 21,1964  build date..
   1st of 369 Super Sport models produced in for 1965 year in Canada...
   1st 1965 Chevelle Convertable produced in Canada..

 I'm sure we will be advised to post same on Chevelle related sites and intend to - so if anyone wants to do so please accompany any such advice with suggestions as to which ones would be the best in their opinion as I am a Camaro owner and don't have much knowledge of good Chevelle-related sites that might be somewhat comparable to the CRG..

Thanks, and I appreciate anyone taking the time to respond...

Randy 

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