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Author Topic: Ideas to share concerning 1:18 '67-'69 GMP Penske Donohue Camaros.  (Read 53844 times)
Swede70
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« Reply #195 on: February 09, 2013, 12:33:19 PM »

Thanks for the feedback,

Confused myself regarding the appearance of these wheels early-season!  Afforded a blown up image of the Gray Ghost at Bryar, what is seen below is one of the few color images of the topic I can refer to.  One could also say that heavy brake dusting could alter the appearance of what might have been a proper paint finish (if not overlaid onto some iteration of DOW 7), whereas what you'd make of what is reproduced below would be appreciated.  I printed off a photocopy of the same and tried to finish match based upon what I could see, while I was surprised to come back to the blue/gray finish that appears darker when not so directly illuminated via the use of a flash.  I still think I need to come up with something better, and with many a military and railroad hobby shop nearabouts me, perhaps I can tap the talent of men who 'see' 76 shades of gray/violet/blue/green?  Just curious then, whereas I'd really welcome any feedback as to what you'd make of this image.  

Just mulling, but it would be nice to technologically overhaul my stab at scale photography for my efforts aren't cutting the mustard!  Oh - and in other news, I'm making a second attempt at the front flares, reducing the extent to which they extend forward and down in terms of mass, etc.  I hope they will translate into an improvement. Kind regards...



Mike K.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 11:03:27 AM by Jon Mello » Logged
Jon Mello
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« Reply #196 on: February 10, 2013, 03:44:44 PM »

Mike, it's very hard to say based on that new photo alone. The true color of the spokes could be affected by an accumulation of brake dust. I think it you went with some kind of semi glass black paint on the spokes, that would seem most logical. I suppose even making the spokes flat black might be suitable as well. My thought about the blue-gray is it just doesn't seem right nor would any slight variation on that color combo seem right.

That new photo of yours does show some good detail as to how the front flares should be shaped and I agree with your assessment that the front flares on your model need a bit of reshaping/trimming. Also, looking at the shape of the rear flares, you have basically a straight line going across above the wheel rim and that should have a bit of a gentle arch to it.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2013, 12:41:57 AM by Jon Mello » Logged

Jon Mello
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Swede70
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« Reply #197 on: February 10, 2013, 04:10:05 PM »

Thanks for your kind input.  

Maybe a better shot of the rear flares.  Given I tried to correct the fronts (which are better now), the rears could be likewise be redone.  It appears I filed off too much material from the shell - especially aft of the rear opening.  All the wheel arches were filed out of the shell before a visit to the actual vehicle was revealed to be feasible, hence another body might be on order.  The shape of the panel work that would need to be built up isn't too sophisticated, hence sheet plastic laid in along with putty work might alter matters for the good.  At present, all the flares are held in with white glue to facilitate revisions and rethinking of what requires such.  

My previous Minilite coating effort in black was intended as a matt finish, although such didn't exactly spring forth from the can.  I'll try this again with a more appropriate finish, switching brands to mix matters up.  Thanks...



...almost impossible to discern what has been done here.  Slightly greater mass on the top of the flare, and hinging further outward.  Better control of flare opening shape, consistently rounder outer contour too it does seem.  


Mike
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 11:05:30 AM by Jon Mello » Logged
Swede70
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« Reply #198 on: February 12, 2013, 11:25:21 AM »

Hello,

Studying photographs suggested that my flare was too short end to end.  I didn't want to create a new flare, hence two castings were joined to expand out the profile a bit.  I should be able to come closer to the wheelarch opening profile that seems akin to an egg viewed in profile and shaved at the base.  For other photos it is noticed that each opening profile is subtly different - rather like a hand formed body done off of a mahogany buck not strictly matched left side to  right side.  I have enough material to illuminate such subtleties, hence there is no need to make quick work of what can be performed and reproduced accurately.  Thanks...



...a progression of sorts top to bottom.  The bottommost flare is a raw casting and doesn't reflect the final look of anything.



...very quickly set in place; i.e. just roughly overlaid atop the surrounding metal and not even square.  Faint inkmarks suggest what metalwork is slated to be removed, whereas I anticipate filing a small notch into the body just atop the character line delineating the rocker area both front and back of arch.  Such should ease the transition between the flare and the shell, and will likely result in a more robust overall assembly.   Doubling up the front flares to increase their length and alter/improve how they blend into the surrounding metal is next up.  In weeks it ought to look far better.  Thanks...

P.S. The wheel have been refinished - this time an ashy flat black with less of a violet/purple hue in evidence.  A railroad hobby store afforded such.  


Mike K.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 11:06:42 AM by Jon Mello » Logged
Jon Mello
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« Reply #199 on: February 14, 2013, 08:48:07 AM »

Some nice improvements, Mike. Looking better all the time. Thanks for sharing the details with us.
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Jon Mello
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Swede70
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« Reply #200 on: February 16, 2013, 11:51:42 AM »

Hello,

Please forgive the repetition on view. Here the flares are lengthened for employing two castings and extending each across the center, whereas the ends of the front flares in particular have been shaved down considerably.  Filing of the Zamac shell wheelarches this time included the creation of small notches atop the character line just atop the rocker panels allows the flares blend into the shell far better now, while each is held in place with only white glue.  I may opt to do up yet another set of rear flares for the opening of each seems a bit high.  In sum, I so wish to be done with this aspect of the project.  

The last photo is a quick collection of parts gathered together approximating some eventual '70 T/G Racing Jerry Titus effort, and yes - it does have four 'rear' tires.  I would hope to do an example with the odd full-length exhaust, aqua-painted Minilites, and flares front and (ugh!) rear irrespective of the aesthetically-challenged nature of the latter.  Thanks...

Mike K.  






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M.K.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 11:09:28 AM by Jon Mello » Logged
cuda48
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« Reply #201 on: February 16, 2013, 12:34:12 PM »

Nice job Mike,
But I agree with Jon, the wheel spokes look right when they are black.
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Swede70
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« Reply #202 on: February 23, 2013, 02:02:29 PM »

Greetings,

Scarcely different this, and yet very labor-intensive to achieve.  Judging the opening too high and of wrong contour, one rear flare was taken aside and combined with another flare casting to effectively add material beneath what couldn't otherwise be corrected.  Much filler, much glue required to fill the unsightly gap between the two flares (one a rear, the other shoved in from beneath, a trimmed front flare heated in water to render it suitably pliable).  A mold was made of the result, and later two flares were cast employing this so as to afford myself whatever latitude was needed to sand and file up to the correct contour.  Once one acquires a bit of experience with resin, the possibilities of gluing seven or eight odd items together and creating a urethane mold of the result becomes compelling; i.e. evidence of odd justifications and unlikely fab. work vanish as all the disparate bits 'become one'.  

Although implied, filing out the material behind the flare to afford room for the rolling stock isn't fun given the flare was born as a casting and yet must function as something fabricated with a very tiny English wheel - wouldn't such be fun?  Worried for the front flares (at least the driver's side) may require like overhaul.  Wheels dark again - but for how long?  One photo only, for your day does not revolve around such posts.  With lasting kind regards to the community...



Mike K.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 11:10:30 AM by Jon Mello » Logged
Jon Mello
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« Reply #203 on: February 24, 2013, 01:42:03 AM »

Painstaking work Mike but the model is becoming better for it. Kudos to you for taking the extra time with it.
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #204 on: February 24, 2013, 10:40:17 AM »

mike, have meant to comment on your efforts posted here before, great work ! metal is more difficult to work than plastic which is my medium. zamac is pretty fragile is it not ? I wondered if you were going to do the full length exhaust on the titus firebird. I guess that system gave better flow. I have only seen a couple of pictures that show it.

  mike s.
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Swede70
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« Reply #205 on: February 24, 2013, 03:12:45 PM »

Thanks for the kind feedback,

Long ago (in my teens actually) I hoped to do the entire '70 grid in 1:24th/1:25th and started collecting parts.  Bits and pieces of the Jo-Han Javelins are still in my possession, but most everything else was eventually sold or moved on.  1:24th/1:25th is, by contrast to 1:18th, so much better supported in terms of parts and accessories, whereas what takes me weeks can be done with greater speed if the shell is cast of more easily fashioned styrene plastic.  For the RKE, the Penske and later ARA/RWR Javelins in scale, there's no other way (as you well know), and at some point I'll dedicate further time to replicas based upon these traditional Jo-Han tools.  I suspect I might start with promotional model bodies for the '68 and '69 RKE Javelins if only to take advantage of the better plastic employed in their creation.  If it tells you anything, I've been gifted unassembled plastic kits partially out of pity from kind individuals that wish for me to experience the joy of a quick build, a quick turn around...

Indeed - Zamac isn't much fun to work with. Heavy and brittle - the 'plastic people' have it better!  Back to Zamac, perhaps a small advantage afforded to model enthusiast is that it files and shapes so very slowly - a quality that suits 'slow me'.  Some 1:1 body supplies likely work better with it, whereas maybe too the overall assembly won't be quite as delicate as the usual plastic kit.  The Sun Star-based Gray Ghost in particular terrifies me, for the roof is plastic and non-structural.  Nothing but the tiny sills hold the front to the rear of the car, and so worried I've been that metal fatigue will reduce this project to so much scale junk.  It was a bold leap to even try doing the flares on this shell, for it was about the least likely success story I could have scripted.  At present it seems strong - definitely not a old-school Welly, whereas I think it will be safe across years.  

No - I don't have profound justification to afford to relate just why I bear the cross of 1:18th.  In grad. school I worked in a Detroit-area automobilia store that sold much in the way of 1:18th prefinished and preassembled diecast and little in the form of 1:25th unassembled plastic kits.  I was a terribly frustrated 1:25th 'plastic person' always building above my level and finishing precious little.  For being situated, for being in the presence of enthusiasts who'd buy something 'out of the box' and display it, occasion would arise to 'seal a sale' for doing discrete mods. of soon-to-be customer cars.  

Strange to relate that so many contemporary customers wouldn't dare purchase and build a plastic kit, whereas the backlash on the part of 'plastic people' decrying the loss of a skills base for the 'laziness' of 1:18th pre-assembled and pre-finished enthusiast base is something I still regard as valid - in part.  Personally, I don't believe anyone is so well-served if only a builder can reap the rewards of having the skills to create the art.  Less of an issue now, those who've only just arrived to the dying 1:18th market missed a broad period of poor quality product that was indifferently researched.  I suppose for carrying in a certain sensitivity (this informed by a broad collection of period racing books and magazines), I felt less overawed by the $30-$120 1:18th models we then sold and simply gave them a whack for addressing many a problem noticed.  For taking a model home for some limited conversion, maybe I'd be 85% satisfied something would be 'right', whereas customers often afforded encouragement and topic-rooted feedback that translated into validation for the effort made.  Observing the length of this thread, clearly I still value such.   

Confidence partially restored, I found the strictly limited nature of the mods. undertaken comforting; i.e. 'it was nice before, and now it's better' - and the world didn't end if I gave the effort up and returned to my starting point.  The GMP Penske Camaros came along and needed help here and there - and so I tried those.  The Welly/GMP BOSS 302's needed a LOT of help - and so I tried those.  Given my background, it seemed a natural to continue on with discreet mods. extending out across the spectrum to embrace more thoroughgoing projects.  I suppose I could reach for an old 1:25th MPC '70 Firebird Trans Am tool to do a proper T/G Firebird, but something inside tells me to embrace the possibilities of doing the same in 1:18th.  Regarding the 1:18th diecast efforts I've undertaken, response at area shows has been decidedly mixed. People who engage me in conversation understand and appreciate that such is 'my thing', although the 'plastic people' are often cool.  Same skill set, same passion, an analogous motivation to produce something of quality - or so I say!  

The '70 Titus Firebird indeed will have the full-length exhaust, whereas but for a few recent online discoveries, I hadn't suspected that the normal spec. of the Titus-driven car was this way more often than not.  Although not desiring to be strictly morbid, the Michael Lamm title 'The Fabulous Firebird' contains an image of crumpled T/G Firebird exhausted against the bridge abutment which took his life, and there too can be seen the full length exhaust exiting out the back and left.  I've been surprised to notice that the aqua-painted Minilites didn't strictly vanish post-Laguna Seca, hence these too will be seen.  Thanks for your interest...

Mike K.

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Jon Mello
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« Reply #206 on: February 26, 2013, 12:24:55 AM »

Mike, I didn't know the 1:18 market is dying. Honestly, I haven't been following it very closely. Still seems like you see a lot of it but maybe not too much in the way of new releases.
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Jon Mello
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Swede70
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« Reply #207 on: February 26, 2013, 11:50:23 AM »

Hi,

Just in short, economic development in China translatable as growing internal demand for goods and services in addition to their established and ever-expanding export 'workshop of the world' production is driving up costs with regards to both materials and labor.  Suppliers, existing firms formerly content to fulfill aspects of the production process aren't content to produce comparatively inexpensive replicas/toys if they can seize opportunity to move up the supply chain.  Workers too move up and out reflecting the human capital face of these same trends.  For many firms attempting to tool and manufacture diecast models withing such an environment, the ground is shifting beneath their feet.  

At present the market is shifting upward, with $150-$300+ becoming the new norm - come what may to the bottom of the market that will not be provisioned new tools.  Some old ERTL tooling is dusted off and mildly updated to afford better quality rereleases in attractive packaging, etc., but in essence the bottom of the market is slowly being abandoned.  Firms such as CMC, the resin-bodied product of Spark, etc. constitute the present and likely the future too.  Product planning of such firms anticipate fewer sales priced to amortize tooling costs with ever greater speed.  

Hobby shops and boutique outlets are now inured to the reality of release prices shifting upwards two or three times before (and if) product finally emerges.  How many people will buy a $500 diecast model of a fetching 1:18 Donohue Camaro?  We may well see - this the hobby manifestation of a certain deepening and globally-sourced class divide.  As anyone and everyone knew, drawing materials and labor from a less-developed country to serve the consumption needs of the more developed world was only going to go on just so long.

Firms such as Hwy. 61 have ceased production, GMP closed shop in the wake of a bank shake up impacting their lines of credit, and other players too have faded from the scene.  Sun Star has produced some exemplary late '50's and early '60's American topics, but as you've noticed, the comparative flood of product witnessed in the mid-1990's has clearly ebbed.  Thanks and kind regards...

Mike K.
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #208 on: February 27, 2013, 12:31:18 AM »

Thanks for the further insight. I just have not been devoting attention to diecasts or models in general. I had no idea GMP went under, or Hwy 61 for that matter. Wow, I really am out of touch.
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #209 on: February 28, 2013, 01:11:02 PM »

Thanks for the kind feedback/responses,

The fabricated inner aprons are beginning to take shape here.  Though invisible to the viewer, four holes have been drilled atop each well forwards - these intended to accommodate a spark plug when readings would be performed.  Tops and some inlet detail added to the oil coolers, with visually undetectable weld beads added.  One cuts out some round plastic stock to use as an applicator (for toothpicks are porous and absorb glue, this equating to poor consistency of application and/or control), and then applies a succession of overlapping beads as required.  Hardly final, whereas revisions and fill panels require fabrication and fitting yet.  

The fuzzy front three-quarter image depicts the new and elongated flares created for joining two, with the body filed to accommodate such.  The inaccurate 1:18th GMP '67 Penske Camaro chromed air cleaner has been replaced, with a lid cut apart and away from a 1:18th Hwy. 61 '69 Camaro Z/28 substituted and affording a fair AC filter top appearance.  Removing the '302 Turbofire' with too hot nail polish remover burned the plastic horribly, although given the shape was rendered too sharply anyhow, sanding and softening of the contours of the same salvaged matters for the better.  The base of this assembly stands to be wholly redone for never was what I created in this regard good, while I may still find a 1:18th GMP '70 GTO assembly to substitute in entire.  Thanks...




...the discreet ink pen marks indicate material slated to be removed.  Rather like assembly line end quality control, messages to self that equate to work required to even matters up.  


Mike K.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 11:11:49 AM by Jon Mello » Logged
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