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On the cars I've done they were barely noticeable, unlike pronounced ones elsewhere. Use of the spot welder by the tech produced varying results. At least you have them. Many cars that roll into my shop did not, nor were the quarter window  braces/reinforcements present. Just installed all of them in yet another car. Butcher shops.

I've never seen those boot types on the 68's I've worked on or parted out.

Dash top has been replaced. None of the reproduction dash VIN holes are correct. I've had to graft in the original area when replacing the dash top.

It makes perfect sense why they should face dome up.
https://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?action=search2

That link doesn't work for me. 

https://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=2438.msg15587#msg15587

It makes perfect sense why they should face dome up.
https://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?action=search2

And they are installed dome up, not down like many cars that roll into my shop.

Pretty original car, from the original owner, been sitting 27 years. Lifetime Arizona car. Battery tray is toast, so I'll replace that but otherwise it's pretty solid. Plan right now is just to repaint the air cleaner and the valve cover and probably paint everything else with black Rustoleum and a foam brush. Found this orange P up on the firewall, I'll try and preserve that somehow. New to Camaros so any advice you guys have about how to make it look like factory would be appreciated. No luck so far in scrubbing off the white paint to get back to that factory blue.

ETA: They sure were sloppy with that seam sealer back in the day, eh?

Painting the engine bay with Rustoleum and a foam brush is hackwork. Clean it and leave it as is.

Just take it apart and replace the actuator rod. Simple.

You'll pay a higher price at a dealer. That car has a few issues and that's just quickly going by pictures. Missing parts, incorrectly installed parts, No fan shroud, wrong fan. At what temp does it run. Engine specs? What rear? It's crucial to have someone inspect the car that knows bodywork. I just took in a car that has 175 miles on a fresh build and have to redo poorly done bodywork for the new owner. I wouldn't give you $60K for that car.

That looks like a "C" on the trim tage which is Ermine White, or a poorly defined G. You can buy the correct trim tag rivets. I've done this with cars that rolled in the shop. One now has the wrong rivets which I'm replacing. Six cylidner car with lot of performance mods and non factory parts so it won't matter. I don't understand why people remove the tags unless smoothing or replacing the firewall.

Koni's are a good recommendation! I think Bilstein or KYB are also a good choices.

KYB Gas-A-Justs are like a steel rod and are very harsh. I've thrown them in the garbage. KYB Excel Gs are stock replacements and provide a comfortable ride.

It's on Marketplace. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1344886660653689

Could be an aftermarket plate made incorrectly or the bracket not formed correctly. Or both. And some reproduction plates have incorrect shock tab angles which misaligns the shock. I have plates in storage and can't remember if original or not.
https://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=18735.msg169762#msg169762

If it's old paint or product I wouldn't worry too much about lead. Lost track of how many cars we've stripped with lead paint. Wear a mask. I have a clean bill of health.

Try Steele Rubber. I've spoken with them about a 57 Chevy I'm doing.