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I've read that the curvature or repro side glass is not correct. May want to get a report on the most recent glass. I have a pile of original window glass that I just can't seem to throw out. Sick of looking at it.
There are places that will buff some imperfections successfully but you're going to burp for it.

Yea I know. I through it out there for added info. And maybe the assembly line ones were different from NOS.

Looking at my NOS shroud part# 3893812. There are no numbers after it.

I speak with Willie semi-often about jobs, cores, rebuilds and work in general. Lost track of how many he's done for me. As of this week he had shoulder surgery and is backed up. Good luck finding someone to do it ASAP.  Those doing it do not need the work so you'll have to be patient. Willie offers rebuilt functional hood hinges and an option with correct looking rivets. He just sent me rebuilt 67 door hinges for my car because someone backed out. Willie's 67 rebuilt door hinge detent roller rebuilds use superior custom machined bronze bushed parts. The 67 kits from repro houses use hardware store generic small diameter allen head, threaded and shouldered roller detent bolts. I've seen them snap. Why wouldn't they under that pressure? Willie presses the correct roller rivets in.

If it's pulling away then it's not sticking well. Try plywood seam tape. It's very sticky.

Youll never convince the owner he was wrong. Flatearther.

Some of the newer strippers are junk. They reformulated the Klean Strip brand to a better aggressive version and it was great like the old stuff. Then certain states like CT stopped selling it. And this is at a jobber where shops like myself buy it. Someone I know got another brand at HD that worked well but I don't recall the name. I may have been Rustoleum's new formula which I've tried and it was "OK". It shouln't hurt the 'glass like it can to bumper covers which hobby people rarely have to contend with. Common sense dictates to try it first. It helps if you abrade the paint with coarse grit before application. Disappointing strippers are no fun.

Hi Sauron,  I went with Uscrichter's suggestion and the Aircraft Stripper did not do much to the bottom of the spoiler.  So now I think I will try hitting it with a coarse grit and then a coat of stripper.  I tried messaging you on a paint question but it does not appear my question sent?  I will try messaging you again for your advice.  Thanks , Jon

I just read the PM. I usually get email notifications about PMs but perhaps the settings changed.

Some of the newer strippers are junk. They reformulated the Klean Strip brand to a better aggressive version and it was great like the old stuff. Then certain states like CT stopped selling it. And this is at a jobber where shops like myself buy it. Someone I know got another brand at HD that worked well but I don't recall the name. I may have been Rustoleum's new formula which I've tried and it was "OK". It shouln't hurt the 'glass like it can to bumper covers which hobby people rarely have to contend with. Common sense dictates to try it first. It helps if you abrade the paint with coarse grit before application. Disappointing strippers are no fun.

Alright, as this post is right up my alley, for the same reasons. The number 1 gripe in the whole of my restoration is of course the Master cyl, purchased 1 from a major Camaro Vendor, came to me in El naturale and now is the sore spot for me every time open the hood, for show at car shows, Dag gum it surface rust already. So I'm open to suggestions as to remedy this on the car. To dam old for removal and cleaning. Do got a question, can I use a rust prohibitive as a primer, then good semi black cover coat? Thanks, all here!

Clean the rust off, epoxy and topcoat it. I've done them neatly on the car. I stock auto paint, but you can use a quality primer and paint and it will be fine.

 Semi-gloss and satin terms used by many people vary unless they understand them. One person's satin is another's semi gloss, and vice versa. Gloss levels fall into ranges. And forget about relying on the screen for an accurate representation.

More tow tabs and a Grump Lump on a Stinger

Now I see it. But lately the site takes a while to load, and sometimes I have to refresh for it to load. It will say 508 Resource Limit is reached.

I don't see "not secure" on my desktop. But I cannot view the forums from my phones. Always get "error 403 forbidden".

Better days.

The measurement that is not included in the diagram is the floor to the top of the rear sub frame mount.  One would assume that they should be the same height across both subframe rails so that's why it is not needed in the diagram. 

Just add to the 5-1/2" dimension on the frame sheet to find the dimension "not included". I was a frame tech for years and still have to be when restoring these cars. Last 67 I did was t-boned, bent and needed to be yanked. Any decent frame shop can straighten your subframe; but most collision shops do not want to bother with old cars that require basic common sense frame straightning techniques. It's not hard. Fix it at home...Block, tie down, jack, whatever it takes. This is why I tell people to put anchor pots in their shops when pouring a floor. They can be installed afterward also and come in handy for many tasks.

Or buy another subframe. There's 2 or 3 near me now.