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Krylon will do. But if you're  not set up to spray with a gun you will prefer SEM trim black as it has the proper sheen. Auto body supply stores have it, or can acquire it for you.

  PPG code 9266.(semi gloss) Cross reference for your brand preference. SEM trim black is close out of the can. As well as Krylon. Seymour is good too. Consistency when using Krylon's laquer or enamel based paints is recommended. It all depends on how much flattening agent is added and how well the paint is agitated weather you will get the degree of sheen you are shooting for.

  My 68 base 327 2 barrel has non finned, non power fronts. Both my 67's (1 base 327 2 barrel, 1 RS 327 2- barrel) are non-finned non power. My brother's 68 SS/RS 396 however has power finned front.

  As the underside of cars from the factory were not masked off it would hold true that floor pans would have body color overspray on them in succession. For example, your blacked out rockers. I've been doing my own ground ups and custom airbrushing for 25 yrs. and although some prefer no overspray when doing a complete, the factory was not as confining in their painting practices. John Z. will confirm the factories approach to painting procedures.

Thanks John. You are quite knowledgable.

  My 67 still has GM sticker on front bumper and reads: 3929954. At bottom of sticker in smaller letters it reads: 2008H5. I've owned this car since 1984.   Scott

 I agree with John Z. Apparently I was not technical enough and chose inappropriate adjectives.  By stopping the "source" I meant just that. The "source" which is from the plenum (hence plenum induction system)  must be stopped. Components in the heater box achieve this objective. Best to inspect prior to installation.

  My writing tends to be pragmatic.  First you have to stop the source of the" draft". Which would be the flappers in the box. If their throw is incomplete the gap will allow infiltration. Any binding or pivot points not operating smoothly due to corrosion will hinder operation. Throw can be adjusted on the top of box. Cables should be disconnected at these points and heater control levers operated independently of the box to verify free movement of cable within sleeve. Have mice resided in box causing obstruction? They will leave material deep within box at flapper location. These factors combined with the possibility of misalgned y- pipe should be investigated. With fan on high there should be little or no leakage around y-pipe when felt at junction to box.         Sauron

 Although obvious, the firewall pad( excellent condition I assume) needs to be kept in position to maintain a proper seal when re-installing heater box. The kick panel also has a seal behind it which may be deteriorated or not put back in when the car was restored.

 New to website. Found that the advice on switching to Well 715 VR was perfect. Problem solved. Went through 4 Delco-Remy regulators( 3 were brand new) and all were junk. System works without a hitch now. My alternator repair guy also told me never buy reman. alt. Mine was and he had to go thrugh it 'cause it was improperly done.