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Author Topic: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN...  (Read 4609 times)
IZRSSS
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« on: July 03, 2011, 09:17:16 AM »

Trust me when I say I hate to bring this topic up again, & again, & again! I did a search and there was a great trouble shooting guide. If anyone knows where it is please post the link. I can't get the D$#%$@ things to open. Sorry I'm in a bad mood but shmuck down the street had an all night party & I slept real good for 2hrs  Sad.

I already replaced the switch & relay once. Now I checked the relay again & I get vacuum from the green but not from the red @ relay switch.

Any help would be great...
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PURESS
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« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2011, 09:23:28 AM »

I put the word     Door       in search ...some topics in there...Hope this helps...last night fireworks outside by bedroom had to get up at 6:00 am...but what a beautiful morning today in Minnesota   Happy 4th everyone
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2011, 02:40:49 PM »

...Alrighdy then, lets try this...

PURESS - thanks for helping out.

I'm guessing you get to the actuators from underneath. Spotted a plastic cover that bolts to the fender-well. Is this correct? Oh...& the check valve is fine I think. I did what John recommended, flushed it out, air dried, peaked through & saw light.

« Last Edit: July 03, 2011, 02:59:38 PM by IZRSSS » Logged
IZRSSS
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« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2011, 06:13:21 PM »

... DjD  
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Dennis   Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 25,141
Blog Entries: 15
 
 Re: 69 RS vacuum headlight testing

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You can test the headlight switch by putting a vacuum guage on the orange hose that feeds the vacuum relay. With the engine running and the lights off you should have vacuum present on the orange hose. When you turn the headlights on that vacuum should stop.

To check the vacuum relay disconnect the red and green feeding the headlights. With the engine running and the headlights off you should have vacuum on one of the 2 open ports and when you operate the override it should switch to the other open port.

Here's more on the system, I have just come into possession of a '68 AIM and will be adding more to this.

http://www.camaros.net/techref/articles/ftecref001.html


For those who are interested...this post by Dennis over at Team Camaro was by far the best! This test confirmed my switch & relay work fine. As for the actuators, the word is, if only one side slides open (doors) & the other side does not, the actuators are amiss. Not the case here. Must be a line leading to them. Maybe if I keep talking to myself long enough I'll figure it out... Undecided

 
« Last Edit: July 03, 2011, 07:36:46 PM by IZRSSS » Logged
69pace
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« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2011, 10:27:21 PM »

You can isolate the headlight switch, manual valve and the actuators of a 69 following this posting
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1578761&postcount=3

Entire thread here: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195773

And here also: A post on 68 and my posting on the difference in 69 of the hose order. It has a picture of the switch hose order and the page from the 69 AIM. Don't yet know how to post pics here. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=196249
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1969 Z-11 350/300 with 4 Speed
IZRSSS
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« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2011, 09:44:20 AM »

Accessed the actuators to check for leaks, & red/green hose orientation. All checked out okay. Then, couldn't resist banging them around a little bit before installing the shield's.

Next checked all hoses topside for leaks & correct orientation per AIM. All checked out okay. Next cranked up the engine long enough to build up enough vacuum. Pulled the light switch and nothing. Here's where it gets really weird...even though I had tried this earlier w/o success, I again switched the red & green hoses at the relay valve & the system worked like a champ. Am I all wet or is the AIM wrong with regards to red vs green orientation at the relay?

Thanks for your help guys...the links really helped.
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jacmac
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« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2011, 06:09:42 PM »

I did the same thing swap the red & green hose on the vac relay,now it works fine.I think the relay is made backwards.Huh
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69 Z10,72 corvette
69pace
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« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2011, 10:31:44 PM »

Marty - Glad it helped.

Are you running a reproduction valve or original 1969 valve?

I tend to see the same valve reproduction part listed as BOTH a 68 or 69 valve.
But folks who have the 68 AIM and original valves say its
shows the valve order as green on top, yellow, the red on the bottom.
But the 69 AIM states its valve is like traffic light red top, yellow, and green on the bottom.

I think this is where folks have gotten confused looking at 68 specs for 69, vise-versa

The actuators are identical both 68 and 69 so why they changed the valve who knows.
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1969 Z-11 350/300 with 4 Speed
IZRSSS
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« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2011, 11:03:35 PM »

I think you might be on to something. Its an OER & we all know about OER (garbage)...part # 5638498 and its listed for both 68 & 69. I will eventually switch back to the original relay to see if it works. You know what they say...if it ain't broke don't fix it. Knowing me I'll probably end up in the same predicament all over again trying to unravel spaghetti.

One thing that has always bothered me is how sluggish this system is. Perhaps 40+ yrs ago this was state of the art but waiting for these things to open & close is kinda like watching paint dry. Is there anything out there, maybe actuators that can boost the system w/o jeopardizing authenticity?

Jack...did you happen to switch your relay out with an OER or a 68? 
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #9 on: July 05, 2011, 02:45:04 PM »

I decided to remove the actuator's and lubricate. This was mentioned in one of the links above so I thought I'd give it a try. It helped some so if anyone is interested here are some pics on how it was done. For those of you who have done it before please offer any additional advise.

I think these are original actuators so if anyone is interested I included additional pics. If anyone knows...are there any stamps on the original actuators? I couldn't find any.

...word of advise, if you have a digital camera take plenty of shots before you take it apart. And use a good Silicone lube, not WD-40.
« Last Edit: July 05, 2011, 03:03:54 PM by IZRSSS » Logged
IZRSSS
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« Reply #10 on: July 05, 2011, 02:48:19 PM »

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IZRSSS
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« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2011, 02:51:41 PM »

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IZRSSS
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« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2011, 02:54:25 PM »

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IZRSSS
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« Reply #13 on: July 05, 2011, 02:57:54 PM »

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IZRSSS
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« Reply #14 on: July 05, 2011, 03:25:43 PM »

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