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Author Topic: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN...  (Read 4619 times)
rich69rs
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« Reply #15 on: July 05, 2011, 05:26:40 PM »

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=542.0

Trouble shooting guide is an attachment in the second post from the top in the above link.

Sounds like you are well on the way to getting the issue resolved, but the following I have found helpful for checking the operation of the relay valve itself.  It is from an earlier post of mine.

"To ensure that the relay valve (mounted on the top side of the vacuum reservoir, driver side front, inner fender) where all the vacuum hoses connect is funcitoning.  On top of the relay valve, there is a manual slide switch.  With the car running, sliide the switch to the open position - - the doors should open.  Then slide the switch to close - - the doors should close.  If not, the relay valve may be the problem.

You can also check to see that the pilot valve inside the relay valve is free to move.  If you carefully feel under the relay valve, you should feel the stem of the pilot valve protruding.  Carefully try to move the pilot valve stem up and down to be sure it isn't stuck. Don't push hard - the pilot valve is spring loaded against the diaphragm in the top of the relay valve.  If the pilot valve is free, it should move readily.  The pilot valve moves up and down sending the vacuum to the correct hoses to either open or close the doors based on the wheter the reference signal (orange striped line to the top of the relay valve) has vacuum on it (doors closed) or vacuum cut off when the light switch is pulled open (doors open).

The other probelm with the relay valve is that there is a diaphragm in the top of the valve.  A busted diaphragm will make the relay valve inoperatble as well.  You can check the light switch itself by removing the orange striped line to the top of the relay valve and see if you go from vacuum (switch closed) to no vacuum (switch open) with the engine running.  If the vacuum switches on / off with the operation of the light switch, the switch is working.

Good news is that they have now started to supply the relay valve in the aftermarket.  I have not had to use an aftermarket relay valve - still have the original one on mine, so I don't know about the quality."

Richard
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Richard Thomas
1969 RS
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« Reply #16 on: July 05, 2011, 06:22:46 PM »

Rich,

I wish I would have been a little more patient & waited for you to chime in. It would have saved me about 8hrs of work. The pilot valve at the relay must have been stuck. I removed the two 5/16 nuts from the relay, flipped it over and worked the pilot valve stem up & down & the system works great.

One other thing...now that I messed w/the actuators I am guessing I screwed up the alignment of the doors...is this possible? The alignment is fine horizontally but now I am short on the right side (passenger) by about 3/8", where as before they were perfect  Huh.
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jacmac
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« Reply #17 on: July 05, 2011, 06:36:47 PM »

Yes i changed the vac relay thats why I swaped red & green hoses.Made backwards??I replaced both actuators even though 1 was still working.The new actuators are now leaking a little oil???Marty leave 1 of the actuaors & related parts together,while taking 1 apart, then when you reassemble you have 1 to look at,alot easier than pics!!
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69 Z10,72 corvette
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« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2011, 07:34:22 PM »

Thanks Jack...I'll keep that in mind for next time, as I'm sure there will be a next time... Undecided
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69pace
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« Reply #19 on: July 05, 2011, 07:59:49 PM »

You can lube the inside of the actuators with high quality spray silicone.
Insert the applicator straw in the rear connector and spray a little in.
Then repeat in the front connector.
Then rotate the can clockwise counterclockwise so the rubber edge of the diaphragm inside gets covered, this is the seal on the can.
Then manually push and pull the piston a few times.
You should notice the process gets easier.

A second shot if need be but don't drown it in silicone.

Be careful if you have old cans not to dent the cans there is no way to roll the bend out.

If you find a pin hole you can seal the holes but the corrosion will continue so sooner or later you will have to buy a new can.

Piston Lube can be silicone or Petroleum Jelly. Carefully unhook the rear of the rubber boot on the piston and lube the seal on the can, then the piston.
Manually activate the piston open and close a few times to distribute the lube in the seal.
Replace the rubber boot to keep crud out of the can.
Since the rubber boots can rot and or disconnect - Replacement boots are available.

Brian
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1969 Z-11 350/300 with 4 Speed
jacmac
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« Reply #20 on: July 05, 2011, 08:37:10 PM »

The repop boots are not very good they dont seal over the flange on the actuator,they just kinda sit there,& when the piston moves the rod is exposed.My originals are a little torn in the middle but they seal over the flange & dont move when the piston moves.
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69 Z10,72 corvette
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« Reply #21 on: July 05, 2011, 09:35:50 PM »

Any clue as to why the right door travel changed. It lacks about 3/8" from closing & I can't make that up by adjusting the door. Does the position of the Lever ASM matter while attaching the piston?

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IZRSSS
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« Reply #22 on: July 05, 2011, 10:53:53 PM »

Brian,

Thanks for outlining the proper way to lube the actuator. Nice to know there are rubber boot repops available. Guess I will have to research them as Jack brings up a good point. As you can see, mine have seen their better days.
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69pace
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« Reply #23 on: July 06, 2011, 05:09:35 AM »

The rubber boots can be re-enforced with some quality electrical tape, or commercial grade film production black "Gaffers Tape" to repair breaks in the links.

The return spring was in decent shape on the right side door? Can you manually close the door or is it binding?
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1969 Z-11 350/300 with 4 Speed
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« Reply #24 on: July 06, 2011, 06:02:35 AM »

Definitely binding. Like trying to adjust your hood with a block of wood wedged at the cowl.
I will check the springs latter this evening.

Just in case...any ideas on where to purchase actuators. Found these and they look pretty darn close to original...
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KRQ-299&Store_Code=camaro6769&Category_Code=RSVACUUMCOMPONENTS
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jacmac
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« Reply #25 on: July 06, 2011, 06:09:00 PM »

Recomendations from previous posts on CRG suggested Classic Headquarters brand.Thats where I got mine.Seem pretty good but now they are starting to leak a little oil from them.
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69 Z10,72 corvette
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« Reply #26 on: July 06, 2011, 06:49:26 PM »

That's unfortunate because its a pain to get to them. I guess there is always a risk with most items. Thanks for the heads up.

BTW, was the movement/speed in which the doors open & closed improved? Mine are still like watching paint dry...
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jacmac
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« Reply #27 on: July 06, 2011, 08:30:47 PM »

The speed of the actuators is pretty quick,I dont know for how long.Im so used to accessing those things its no big deal anymore,take off the tire , lots more room to work.The only problem I have is putting the wire clip on the front of the actuator,even thats getting a little easier!!I love those hidden headlights no matter how much a PITA they are.They give the car a great L Cool 8)K!! I could do without the AC though,but it was there originally.Good luck!
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69 Z10,72 corvette
Steve68
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« Reply #28 on: July 07, 2011, 09:11:26 AM »

Marty

Here (http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=626.msg9497#msg9497) is what Jerry M had to say about the actuators.  Don't know if they are still available from Ricks.

Steve
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #29 on: July 07, 2011, 09:19:33 AM »

Thanks Steve...I'll give them a call to see if they are still available!

...Gave Rick's a call. They no longer carry the high torque actuators  Cry. I found several strange looking actuators on-line. If these are the same type Jerry is referring to they are a totally different design, and run anywhere from $850.00 to $1000.00.
« Last Edit: July 07, 2011, 09:41:02 AM by IZRSSS » Logged
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