Fuse block clips - repair or replace ???

[DAVEN1256]

My under dash wiring harness is in near perfect shape except for the fuse clips in the fuse block. The were pretty corroded and also had some light rust in areas. I sprayed them with De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner. It helped but they still looked rough. I tried to get at them with a little wire wheel on a Dremel tool. You really couldn't get to the inside of the clip that well and now some the plating has stared to come off the outer edges of the some of the clips.

I did put a fuse in each socket and then tested for continuity between the clips. I was good at every socket but I just don't trust them looking like they do.

Can you buy these fuse clips anywhere? Can you buy the fuse block...or just the interior side of the fuse block.....without  having to buy the harness itself.

I hate to spend $450 for a new harness when the only thing wrong is a few dollars worth of clips.

Thanks.....Dave

[ko-lek-tor]

Not my expertise, but I would think that copper plating these would be the trick and I recall that Cu plating is an easy at home DIY project.

[169INDY]

We use this product to "Restore" plating on Aircraft Carrier electrical distribution copper bussing, might just work.

http://www.cool-amp.com/cool_amp.html

Jim

[Kelley W King]

Not that I have tried it but I think I would use a small brush and Evaporust. Then a light coat of spray oil. I would spray or dip with the evaporust because it might damage the letters.

[DAVEN1256]

After considering the different way I could go with this and the pros and cons, I decided to purchase a "fusebox repair kit from Lectric Limited.

34625 FUSE BLOCK REPAIR KIT****, new fuse block, including buss bars ****In order to provide the correct fuse block, you must tell us the Lectric Limited part # of the Dash Harness that would use this fuse block, based on the configuration of your vehicle (See Wire Harnesses & Lead Wires section). If a Dash Harness is not available, or the Dash Harness states that a fuse block is required, then we do not offer the Fuse Block Repair Kit for your application. This item is non-returnable***

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Dave

[69pace]

How did it work out for you?

[DAVEN1256]

Not finished yet and ran into an unexpected problem.

There are thirteen wires connected to the back of the fuse block. Six wires are crimped directly to the fuse clips. Seven have a "flag" terminal on the end of the wire.  Those are pushed on a "blade" terminal on the back of the fuse block. (Not sure if my terminology is right here.)

When I received the new fuse block I saw that four of the seven blade terminals had been replaced with crimped connectors. I wasn't too happy about that seeing as I would have to cut four perfectly good flag terminals off of my wires, splice on new wire, and then attach them to crimped connectors. I called Lectric Limited to ask why this was and they told me those four specific blade connectors aren't made any more.

So I called AAW who can also supply a new fuse block to see if theirs would be any different and they confirmed that if I ordered a fuse block from them, they also could not get those specific connectors either and that  I would be in the same boat.

So it is what it is.......more work that I expected but I'll get it done. I really thought Lectric Limited should have included this information in their product description.

Dave

[69pace]

Yeah does sounds like it should be a standard disclosure but all may not be lost.
Is it possible if you flatten out the crimp the same width and thickness of the "tab" of the old panel that your "flag" will fit tight?

[DAVEN1256]

I thought about that but was a little skittish about bending the crimped connector 90 degrees for fear of weakening it or breaking it.  I've already made the cuts and spliced new wire. I just have to do the crimps now.....I'm fine!  Thanks!

Dave

[69pace]

ok. Just for comparison value, did you happen to shoot some photos of the fronts of the panels side by side?

[DAVEN1256]

There is some ribbing or reinforcements on the exterior of the block that is not on the original but it's not important. It snaps together fine with the bulkhead and everything seems to be correct.

[69pace]

It does look impressive and it is a very nice reproduction to be sure. Glad to see they have continued the quality in these days of cheaper is good enough. 

I think but I'm not sure the rails or ribbing added on the sides are for auxiliary boards to slide into which expand your power options but used the power leads next to the original fuses so you really are not getting extra capacity, just neater way to add optional accessories. I haven't seen them around in a long time, maybe it was a corvette thing.

[Mike S]

I know this is an old thread but I found myself in the same situation. The fuse block has seen its days and unfortunately I had to replace it after trying to clean the contact of the large rust failed. I even broke some of the original color band fuses as they were seized on the clips badly.
    I got the repair kit from Lectric Limited for my 67 05B NOR convertible (manual/floor w/console gauges). Here are pictures of the two side by side. Aside from the fonts being slightly thinner on the new one, the overall look is accurate enough for me with only minor differences in some body molded shapes. The nice thing are the connectors on the back are the same as the original (I am reusing the original flasher connectors).
  I am posting for the sake of future searches.

Mike

[Mike S]

More side views....

[69pace]

Mike - Great documentation. Mind if I grab the photos and post as a sticky over at Team Camaro?

Brian

[Mike S]

Hi  Brian,

  Feel free to use them. 

Thanks,
Mike

[DAVEN1256]

I am the original poster of this thread........Mike is lucky that Lectric Limited was able to reproduce all of the connectors on the back of his fuse block (crimped and blade) with the same as his original.

On my reproduction fuse block, four of the connections on the back that were originally a blade were replaced with crimped connectors. (See my pics above) I was told by Lectric Limited that those blade connectors are no longer made. So I had to cut four good corresponding blade connectors off of my wiring harness, splice on new wire, and crimp it to the new crimped connector.

I wonder why the slightly different style of blade connectors on Mike's fuse block ('67) are still available and those on mine ('68) are not.

Dave

[69pace]

Dave I'm willing to guess that the stock of the 69 - 80 style connectors is newer and as soon as the 65-68 GM corporate blocks dwindle the next batch of replacements will be more universal.

I thought that you and I had talked about the creation and use of universal spade fittings - barrel that inserts into the crimp, crimp and solder, then attach lead as usual to the spade end. My only fear would be clearance behind but having never used either the panel or the universal fittings which can be easily made.  I may have this conversation confused with someone over at TC, or one of the general GM forums at AutoGuide.

In any event this topic and the re-purposing of connections in the bulkhead connector are a few of the electrical item project documentations I have been tinkering with for a revised tech section at TC.  I'm sorry I thought I had asked you if I could use your photos as well. In any event both of you have saved the harness and replaced the panels which was the goal. I'll have to cough up some cash and buy one and see if the universals that were presented to me would work and fit behind the panel. Thanks Dave.

[Mike S]

 Could the difference in Dave's fuse panel be a factory revision change and he was sent the one that superseded his panel version?
I found this in the FAQ on Lectric's site and though that maybe this was the reason. It targets the harness but I wonder if the fuse panel would also be subject to change.

Q- Why does the harness I just bought appear different from my original harness?

A-Keep in mind that all Lectric Limited harnesses are built using the most current General Motors blueprint revisions.  (What this means is that, for example, in 1968 there may have been three revisions to the dash harness - revisions that were sometimes made after the prior versions were already installed in cars.).  Lectric Limited uses the most current blueprint revisions to assure that your new harness has the most current function and safety revisions integrated into the harness.

Just a thought.

Mike

[DAVEN1256]

69-Pace....it was not me that you had the discussion with.  I love the idea though of crimping and soldering an adapter to the crimped connector to be able to use the original blade connector from the harness. I wish I had thought of that. I probably could have rigged something up......and please feel free to use my photos also.

Mike S....you could be right with your theory. Lectric Limited did tell me though that they replaced those blades with crimped connectors because the blades were no longer available. American Autowire told me the same thing.

It's funny though, they don't seem to using old GM stock for the blade connectors where running out of old stock could cause a change to something else. The blade connectors that were retained in the new fuse block are obviously newly manufactured and are different in style from the original GM. So I wonder why the blade connectors that were changed to crimped couldn't be newly manufactured also.

Dave

Dave

[DAVEN1256]

I thought I would show a couple of pictures of my existing harness connected to the new fuse block. Taking a picture before it was taken apart was a great guide in making sure it went back together correctly.

I had to splice a new piece of wire onto every wire that was a crimped connection since I had to cut the old crimped connectors off making the wires too short. There is an electronics and hardware surplus store in Orlando called Skycraft that has all kinds of great stuff. Huge supplies of wire in all colors and gauges sold by the foot. I was able to buy a one foot piece of every wire I needed in the correct color and gauge for about $1.30.

I also had to rent a pair of correct crimpers from American Autowire since I didn't want to invest lots of money into a one time use tool.

It will be a while before everything is back together and I get to test my work. I hope when I blow the horn, the windshield wipers don't turn on!

[69pace]

Nice job! Thanks for the update.