The Hugger goes ZL-1....

[cook_dw]

Hey you are rich in knowledge Darrell. What are you coating the tops of the pistons and skirts with, and why is it beneficial?

Unforunately Austin, interweb babble doesnt pay the bills..   

Cerakote is the name of the company and they are mainly known for ceramic coatings in the gun arena.  The top of the piston is a coating called piston coat which it helps with the ignition of the heat being dispersed across the whole piston and reduces and in most cases eliminates hot spots or essentially its a thermal barrier.  Very beneficial in high compression and forced induced engines.  The skirts have whats called Micro Slick coating which is a dry friction reducing coating.  Can be used in many different applications.  Next engine I build I want to try some ideas with this coating in other key areas of the engine to free up drag and increase horsepower..  Am I racing in a class?  No but it is more of a to say I did and can do it and it works.  Also have used other coatings from Cerakote for the headers, intakes and other items.  So far it is holding up very well.

http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/






 

[cook_dw]

Interesting info there, Darrel!
Do you mean the sharp edges of the domes or ...? And how much do you need to knock of?

Yes off the dome.  It doesnt take much to remove them..  I use a scotch brite pad most of the time.  But if you are afraid of damaging the piston then just ask whoever is doing the machine work on your engine to look them over and a good machine guy will know and do it anyways.

[firstgenaddict]

Like Darrell stated the tops of the domes should be "softened" in order to minimize points which can cause pre-ignition. 

before the Coatings came about we glass beaded the piston tops (taped the ring lands with duct tape).
The glass beading gave a dull textured surface on which a nice even coat of carbon would deposit-- giving an insulation, which protected the piston tops.

The D port 077 heads look like the exhaust side of Brodix race heads of the 80's and 90's.

They flow much better on the exhaust than the earlier heads and the exhaust is where most heads need help.

[cook_dw]

They flow much better on the exhaust than the earlier heads and the exhaust is where most heads need help.

Much harder to get air to flow through a short hard 90° turn much less having to come out of and around a valve head.  Also why camshafts designed staggered offset on dura & lift..  Its all in the combo and what you are trying to accomplish.  Excellent point James.

Treat engines like a big ole air pump..  Dont worry about the fuel side as things..  Figuring out how to get more air in and out are the keys as well how quickly can you get it done..  All this engine talk has me wanting to build another race engine...  Its been a while.  I need to be rich.

[hgger69]

Thanx Darrel and James for your input, much appreciated! 
I'll make sure to soften the sharp edges of the domes myself before it goes to the engine shop for bore and balancing!
I like the comparison with an air pump as well, makes it easier to understand why engines work well or not!

[firstgenaddict]

If you are going to use a non standard Cam I highly recommend calling Dave Crower @ Crower Cams for his custom designed solid rollers with HI-PO lifters (hi pressure pin oiled).

He will want the following car weight and gear ratios, trans type, flow numbers on the heads from .100 lift to .700 every 100.

[hgger69]

Thanx, James!
......but we've already bought a cam.  . haven't seen it yet, though....

[hgger69]

Another little bunch of stuff has arrived at The Huggers nest.....

First these unusual, I do know why, but in my opinion very cool option...the fender guards from GM. I had a NOS set before and now I found another NOS kit so now its complete to the car.
This new box has never been opened since it was sealed in 1968-69:


.. here together with the other kit:


I also did order a complete, 41 pcs, set of chrome plated valve covers that should be very similar to the original part. According to seller they feature the correct height, positioning of the holes, wire loom stands and brackets, most of all they feature the correct drippers as per originals. They do look good enough for me at least... 


Some small but good stuff for the starter as well, heat shield and front bracket.


And finally the new cam from Crane. A 10313 that hopefully will do the job!




Here are some spec for the interested:

Description:
Rough idle, performance usage, good mid range HP, bracket racing, auto trans w/3000+ converter, 3800- 4200 cruise RPM, 10.0 to 11.5 compression ratio advised. Good w/Roots supercharger, 15 lbs. max. boost w/8.0 max. compression ratio advised.

Lift: Intake   @Cam 3347  @Valve 569 
       Exhaust @ Cam 350  @Valve 595
       Rocker Arm Ratio 1.7     
 
Cam Timing: TAPPET @ .004
Lift:              Opens        Closes             ADV Duration
       Intake    34 BTDC    80 ABDC         294 °
       Exhaust  87 BBDC    37 ATDC         304 °

Spring Requirements:
Part Number 99893
Loads Closed 130 LBS @ 1.850 or 1 27/32
         Open 346 LBS @ 1.280     
 
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 3200
Maximum RPM 6800
Valve Float 7200
 
Cam Timing: TAPPET  @.050
Lift:        Opens      Closes        Max Lift    Duration
  Intake   10 BTDC   48 ABDC   109           238
  Exhaust 63 BBDC    5 ATDC    119           248

[69Z28-RS]

I like the fender guards... since they help protect your rear quarters from flying bits of 'slower cars' that you've blown past...

My '69 Z28 had them on it when I purchased the car in 1976, and remained on it until I removed them for 'cleaning and preservation' a couple of years ago.. (I plan on reinstalling them... if for no other reason than to make Bullitt jealous... 

[BULLITT65]

Thats funny Gary. Whats ironic is my car also had mud flaps....
I think between the mud flaps and the day 2 ziebart-ing of my car, it probably saved the body and rear quarters from having to be replaced in the harsh Michigan winters. 

[69Z28-RS]

Ahhhhh... so now that these fender guards are 'the IN thing'...  you are admitting your car had them too???

[BULLITT65]

Had them, yes. Has them "NO". One day way in the future who knows maybe I will put them back on...

To me, while they do harken back to the 60's when many people ran them, they kinda look grandpa to me now. Kinda like curb feelers, But the vintage low riders like to run those now too. I guess both serve(ed) a purpose, you just have to get over the look 

[hgger69]

Thanx guys!
You see, this fender guards are the new black...or orange! 

[hgger69]

Suddenly things started to happen again.... filled the trunk with stuff and went to my local motor shop:

 
 
Now up on the bench are the crank, rods, pistons, flexplate and the harmonic balancer. Ready to get fully balanced.

 
 
The heads also came with me this time for a checkup and also to remove the two inner springs before breaking the future motor and cam in.
The shop´s going to finish the motor like a short block with the crank, rods, pistons and cam installed and I´m supposed to finish the motor project home in my garage, kind of scaring and exciting at the same time, huh! 
The time frame is not to get the motor done fast, just to get it right! 
 
I just have to get a short glimpse of the casting number...

 
 
The original ZL-1 block had #3946052/53. I was surprised to se this new number was ending with a "D", #394605D.
Does anybody know why its a "D" in the end instead of a "2" or "3"? My guess is that there is an issue with the owners rights or similar between Winters Foundry and GM....? Could "D" stand for "Developed"....or Dumbass...or Deamon....or maybe Doomed?
 
 
All machinery on the raw casting block is done by Schwartz Machine Company and they also put their own serial number on it:

 
 
It´s a story that the operators at Schwartz wanted to make a tribute to the famous ZL-1 and therefore engraved the head caps and the rear cam plug with "ZL-1"...true or not but there it is:

 
 
Now it´s up to the shop to make as perfect job as possible and ill get back with an update a.s.a.p. 

[69Z28-RS]

Had them, yes. Has them "NO". One day way in the future who knows maybe I will put them back on...

To me, while they do harken back to the 60's when many people ran them, they kinda look grandpa to me now. Kinda like curb feelers, But the vintage low riders like to run those now too. I guess both serve(ed) a purpose, you just have to get over the look 

Bullitt removed his steering wheel knob too??