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Topics - ZLP955

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General Discussion / ZLP955 Racing BITD
« on: Today at 03:48:21 AM »
Well after years of searching, I have finally been able to track down some photos of my Z when it was a race car. I am delighted, to say the least.
It also allowed me to learn more about the car's race history; it was bought new in late June 1969 and began to run at Lions Dragstrip. By early January 1971, when the photos below were shot by photographers for Hot Rod magazine, the car was still the original silver with black stripes, but had some dark (probably black) infills added down both sides, plus race decals and lettering, in addition to the Cragar S/S wheels. The flat hood appears to have had the hinges removed, as it sits high at the cowl, and there is an interesting curved tube in front of the driver, probably a tach or a fuel pressure gauge.
Note the original California black front plate (the username I chose when I signed up here years ago - as I got both original plates with the car), the Clippinger Covina plate frame (which backs up the NCRS Shipper info) and the VE3 front bumper still on it today.
These photos are from the 1971 AHRA Grand American series at Long Beach (Lions) CA and the car ran in the Formula Stock class.
Some time after January, but still during 1971, the car had a full repaint by renowned pinstriper Bob Kovacs in Fresno, and ended up switching to E/MP class, presumably under IHRA or NHRA rules. I'm not sure at what point the hood was cut out, or when it was mini-tubbed for wider rear rubber, but that is how I bought it. The car's name also changed from 'Fiasco' in 1971 to 'Home-Grown Fiasco' when it was repainted. The home-grown part could be a reference to the owner's father and son auto parts business in LA at the time.
The copyright and ownership of the photos below must be credited to TEN (The Enthusiast Network) and the Petersen Publishing/SEMA Digitization Project. I have made contact with them to seek access to the hi-res and non-watermarked versions of these, but have not yet heard back. In the meantime, I hope it is OK to post the publicly-available Lo-res versions, along with an acknowledgement of copyright.
Just wanted to share my delight at finding these pictures with the many friends I have made on this forum!

1969 - Orphans / 9N549170 L78 Block
« on: January 17, 2019, 07:50:03 AM »
Posted for sale in the classified section of another forum:
69 Camaro L78 block std bore
Casting number 3955272
Assembly stamp T1112JH
Partial VIN 19N549170
Contact details in screenshot below (scroll right to see all info). Mods please intervene if having the phone number contravenes any privacy considerations.
Possible VIN of the car this belongs with:

Restoration / Congratulations Chick
« on: November 22, 2018, 02:55:06 AM »
I heard a whisper that Chick's stunning '68 Z/28 took out a "Platinum Pick" award at MCACN 2018 in Chicago, with a score of 999/1000....
Wow. Not surprised at the award, but how did that single point escape, hmm?
J/K - Congratulations Chick and all those who played a part in such a benchmark restoration project!

Mild Modifications / High-Level Brake Light
« on: November 20, 2018, 01:06:58 AM »
I was catching up on episode 20 of Project Binky on YouTube (hooked - amazing fabrication skills and attention to details, with typically dry Brit humour) and thought their idea of installing a high-level rear brake light was a very worthwhile concession to originality in favour of added safety. Got me wondering if any members here have added one to a first-gen? I know there are 'universal' units available, but would like to hunt down something OEM that would be slimline (subtle), effective and simple to mount.

Restoration / Difficulty Disassembling Smog Pump
« on: November 03, 2018, 11:59:26 PM »
Saginaw smog pump with assembly date 05591S (Feb 24, 1969) for my 04A LOS car. Pump is seized solid, not sure if it's the vanes or one (or more) bearings that have seized.
Have read a lot of posts about disassembling these, so in I went.
Soaked entire pump in a pail of evaporust for one week - a lot of crud came out, but it did not free up. Four bolts holding the cast cover on came out, but the cover wouldn't separate from the aluminum pump body. So, back in fresh evaporust, this time for two weeks. Removed it yesterday, still not freed up and the rear cover is still stuck solid to the casing.
So - decision time. Have several options:
1 - try repeating the evaporust treatment, but 3 weeks soaking already?? Unlikely to free it IMO.
2 - shelve this pump and just use one of the others that I have (dated 71-72 but spin freely).
3 - keep trying to remove the back cover to get inside - online instructions explain how to address the bearings, so it's just separating the iron from the aluminum that's problematic.

Option 1 will make me a major shareholder in Evaporust, and Option 2, well, I just hate quitting. So, I'm leaning towards option 3. Just concerned that I might crack the cast aluminum trying to insert some type of tool to prise the end cover off, there is literally no gap whatsoever and the interface is likely heavily corroded inside. I haven't tried to remove the pressed-in alignment dowel pins, but some forums suggested that wasn't necessary. Blows from a rubber mallet have no effect.....
Any tips, suggestions, advice? Would soaking in a penetrating oil help?

Originality / Holley Dual Feed Fuel Line Y-Block
« on: October 23, 2018, 12:36:25 AM »
Do assembly-line brass Y-blocks for Holley dual-feed carburetors on '67-'69 Camaros have any identifying markings to look out for?

Decoding/Numbers / '69 LOS Camaro - Tags and Docs on eBay
« on: October 09, 2018, 10:24:46 AM »
Another ebay listing of '69 Camaro tags and docs "for collection purposes"  >:(
VIN plate, trim tag, California Title, Registration and (repro) door sticker.
Only have part of the VIN, 124379L51xxxx
Ebay seller ID: alaspooryorick007
Item located: Buckner Illinois USA
"Hello, You are looking at my set of 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Coupe bits and pieces. The information on the cars tags read it was built in Van Nuys, California in January 1969. It had Black interior and the color was special order color. To make a complete set I ordered a restoration door sticker for a complete set to frame and put on your show wall. This car was bought in 1984 and lived it's entire life up till then. It was last registered in California in 1981 and the paperwork is clean, clear and signed but undated. The car was used to build another car as it had a rust free car. These items are sold for collection and art purposes. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask questions."

Decoding/Numbers / Champagne X44 V8 Coupe on ebay
« on: October 09, 2018, 06:26:05 AM »
Just spotted this, a 63-63/711 X44 V8 Coupe listed on ebay. VIN not provided, only 124379N.
Big job to bring this one back, but such a rare and appreciating color that hopefully someone will take the job on, rather than the (easier) alternative.
Sorry about the poor picture, but the ebay listing doesn't have photos that can be enlargened.

Restoration / A.I.R Diverter Valve Function
« on: October 08, 2018, 08:46:45 AM »
Been thinking of a method to bench-test smog system diverter valves to check for correct function. Figured that I could achieve this by simply doing the following:
1) Connect a low-pressure air supply to the inlet, and verify that air exits both outlet pipes.
2) Apply a variable vacuum source to the vacuum hose port and note if (and at what " of Hg) air flow is interrupted from exiting the two outlets.
However I want to check my understanding of how the diverter valve works. Based on the section diagram in the CRG 'Emissions System' report, it looks as though a sudden increase in engine manifold vacuum pulls a spring-loaded diaphragm closed, which in turn closes off the supply of pressurised air from the smog pump to the diverter outlet tubes. So does this then direct the airflow to exit via the muffler? If so, is it only momentary or does air continue to flow through the muffler until the manifold vacuum decreases? Presumably the only significant variable within each of the part # for diverter valves is the manifold vacuum (depending on the engine RPO) required to trigger and release the diaphragm?

Restoration / Rejuvenating Rubber Hoses
« on: October 05, 2018, 01:48:45 AM »
I'm currently working on the smog system, and wondering on the best approach to deal with rubber hoses that have become hard. I believe the hose pictured below (3932476, sorry about the bad iPhone picture) is the correct one that goes from the diverter valve across to the driver side AIR tube, so I'd like to keep and reuse it, however it is not very supple.
I've been reading about putting rubber parts in a pan of boiling water and wintergreen oil, which (by all accounts) has been successful in rejuvenating and softening rubber. Plus giving the shop an interesting aroma. I'm thinking about trying this on some scrap rubber hose off-cuts, but my main concern is with preserving the markings on the original hose. AFAIK, these are ink-stamped onto the hose and I'd hate to lose those in the process.
Any thoughts, tips or advice from those who have tried this?

1969 - Orphans / 19N623939 Muncie M20
« on: September 28, 2018, 09:07:08 PM »
3925660 Main Case for sale on ebay.
Partial VIN is  19N623939
Assembly Stamp P9C22A
Located Oakville Connecticut USA
Seller ID hondaminiparts-com
Asking $275.00 Buy Now
Ebay listing URL

1969 - Orphans / 124379N651997 Original Documentation
« on: September 27, 2018, 05:07:49 AM »
124379N651997 documentation for sale on ebay
Owner's Manual (3rd Ed), Car Shipper, BBC, sales docs from Cooper Chevrolet, Ithaca Michigan. Can't see a P-o-P.
Car was 59 exterior with parchment v-top, with 713 interior, RS, L65/M40.

Decoding/Numbers / Caveat Emptor - 124379N5804xx X11 307 car to X77 Z/28
« on: September 18, 2018, 11:59:52 AM »
01B X11 307 Car listed on ebay, seller discloses he searched to find a car with the right build date to match it's VIN with an X77 trim tag that he took off a wreck. Now selling openly as a project to clone a 307 into a Z/28.
URL is
Full VIN not supplied but does state: 124379N580xxx
Seller's description:
For your consideration is one of my projects that I have owned for 11 years. This Camaro is a Norwood X11 V8 car with all its original parts and drivetrain with all its VIN#'s intact. It has never been disassembled and has all correct date coded components and hardware including its original T3 headlights and intact seat-belts. Comes with an original Z28 rear bumper with original Z28 tall bumper guards. I searched many years for this build date of 01B to match a genuine authentic X77 Z28 Cortez Silver trim tag that I have personally owned since the mid 1980's as a teenager. The X77 was a total wreck of a shell at a junk yard back then and was crushed. My plans were to build a Cortez Silver X77 to the genuine original trim tag that matches the 01B date of this X11 all original unmolested Camaro.

The Genuine original X77 trim tag decodes to:
01B = Built second week of January
69-12437 = Coupe
NOR = Built in Norwood Ohio
711 = Standard Black Bucket Seats
69-69 Car Color Cortez Silver
X77 = Z28 without style trim

The original to the car X11 trim tag decodes to:
01B = Built second week of January
69-12437 = Coupe
NOR = Built in Norwood Ohio
52B = Car Color Garnet Red
X11 = Style Trim Group

The car needs the typical rust repair prone to Norwood cars. Floor pan, both rear quarters, lower doors.
Comes with an original Z28 rear bumper with correct original Z28 bumper guards
I have a clean, clear California title in hand in my name with a NON-OP status and actual mileage. Text only if needed to 8one8-3eight3-5one8zero
Car is also listed local to me in Los Angeles and I reserve the right to end auction at anytime if sold outside of Ebay.
If you are a Camaro enthusiast then you know the possibilities with this restoration project.
Complete VIN# and X77 trim tag body number will be disclosed after a 500 dollar deposit is funded.

Originality / Kick Panel Vent Door Levers
« on: August 20, 2018, 11:55:23 AM »
My original kick panels are a bit chalky and so I've been keeping my eye on used panels, in case they're not restorable.
Have noticed that some kick panels have 2 vent door levers per side, and others have only 1 per side.
My originals have 2 per side, was wondering if the 1-per-side are from a '67, since that year doesn't have Astro ventilation..... but the parts vendors list one type for both '67 and '68, and another for '69.
Soooo..... what are the one-lever kick panels from?

Originality / Multi-Leaf Rear, E-Brake Cable Brackets
« on: July 28, 2018, 02:22:51 AM »
Have a couple of questions about e-brake cable brackets; I've been looking for some used originals, have got at least one suspected as repro but would prefer to avoid using it - just too darn shiny and straight to suit the car ::)
1) Do originals have any markings on them that identify them as such? I made a note a few years back that they may have had a 'W' on the cable end...... not sure of the source.
2) The 69 AIM (UPC5, C2) calls up two different part numbers for these, 3923533 LH and 3895206 RH. What is the difference? Repros are marketed as '2 required per car' (for multi-leafs) so must both be the same. Is the difference noticeable, and are these judged?

Reference photo, credited to Heartbeat City:

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