Topics

31

Restoration / A.I.R Diverter Valve Function

« on: October 08, 2018, 08:46:45 AM »

Been thinking of a method to bench-test smog system diverter valves to check for correct function. Figured that I could achieve this by simply doing the following:
1) Connect a low-pressure air supply to the inlet, and verify that air exits both outlet pipes.
2) Apply a variable vacuum source to the vacuum hose port and note if (and at what " of Hg) air flow is interrupted from exiting the two outlets.
However I want to check my understanding of how the diverter valve works. Based on the section diagram in the CRG 'Emissions System' report, it looks as though a sudden increase in engine manifold vacuum pulls a spring-loaded diaphragm closed, which in turn closes off the supply of pressurised air from the smog pump to the diverter outlet tubes. So does this then direct the airflow to exit via the muffler? If so, is it only momentary or does air continue to flow through the muffler until the manifold vacuum decreases? Presumably the only significant variable within each of the part # for diverter valves is the manifold vacuum (depending on the engine RPO) required to trigger and release the diaphragm?

32

Restoration / Rejuvenating Rubber Hoses

« on: October 05, 2018, 01:48:45 AM »

I'm currently working on the smog system, and wondering on the best approach to deal with rubber hoses that have become hard. I believe the hose pictured below (3932476, sorry about the bad iPhone picture) is the correct one that goes from the diverter valve across to the driver side AIR tube, so I'd like to keep and reuse it, however it is not very supple.
I've been reading about putting rubber parts in a pan of boiling water and wintergreen oil, which (by all accounts) has been successful in rejuvenating and softening rubber. Plus giving the shop an interesting aroma. I'm thinking about trying this on some scrap rubber hose off-cuts, but my main concern is with preserving the markings on the original hose. AFAIK, these are ink-stamped onto the hose and I'd hate to lose those in the process.
Any thoughts, tips or advice from those who have tried this?

33

1969 - Orphans / 19N623939 Muncie M20

« on: September 28, 2018, 09:07:08 PM »

3925660 Main Case for sale on ebay.
Partial VIN is  19N623939
Assembly Stamp P9C22A
Located Oakville Connecticut USA
Seller ID hondaminiparts-com
Asking $275.00 Buy Now
Ebay listing URL https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-1970-CAMARO-MUNCIE-4-SPEED-CASE-TAIL-HOUSING-SIDE-COVER-MID-PLATE/323471859562

34

1969 - Orphans / 124379N651997 Original Documentation

« on: September 27, 2018, 05:07:49 AM »

124379N651997 documentation for sale on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-ORIGINAL-3RD-EDITION-CAMARO-CHEVELLE-NOVA-OWNERS-MANUAL-ORIGINAL-PAPERWORK/163280383942
Owner's Manual (3rd Ed), Car Shipper, BBC, sales docs from Cooper Chevrolet, Ithaca Michigan. Can't see a P-o-P.
Car was 59 exterior with parchment v-top, with 713 interior, RS, L65/M40.

35

Decoding/Numbers / Caveat Emptor - 124379N5804xx X11 307 car to X77 Z/28

« on: September 18, 2018, 11:59:52 AM »

01B X11 307 Car listed on ebay, seller discloses he searched to find a car with the right build date to match it's VIN with an X77 trim tag that he took off a wreck. Now selling openly as a project to clone a 307 into a Z/28.
URL is https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Chevrolet-Camaro/153184815693
Full VIN not supplied but does state: 124379N580xxx
Seller's description:

For your consideration is one of my projects that I have owned for 11 years. This Camaro is a Norwood X11 V8 car with all its original parts and drivetrain with all its VIN#'s intact. It has never been disassembled and has all correct date coded components and hardware including its original T3 headlights and intact seat-belts. Comes with an original Z28 rear bumper with original Z28 tall bumper guards. I searched many years for this build date of 01B to match a genuine authentic X77 Z28 Cortez Silver trim tag that I have personally owned since the mid 1980's as a teenager. The X77 was a total wreck of a shell at a junk yard back then and was crushed. My plans were to build a Cortez Silver X77 to the genuine original trim tag that matches the 01B date of this X11 all original unmolested Camaro.

The Genuine original X77 trim tag decodes to:
01B = Built second week of January
69-12437 = Coupe
NOR = Built in Norwood Ohio
711 = Standard Black Bucket Seats
69-69 Car Color Cortez Silver
X77 = Z28 without style trim

The original to the car X11 trim tag decodes to:
01B = Built second week of January
69-12437 = Coupe
NOR = Built in Norwood Ohio
52B = Car Color Garnet Red
X11 = Style Trim Group

The car needs the typical rust repair prone to Norwood cars. Floor pan, both rear quarters, lower doors.
Comes with an original Z28 rear bumper with correct original Z28 bumper guards
I have a clean, clear California title in hand in my name with a NON-OP status and actual mileage. Text only if needed to 8one8-3eight3-5one8zero
Car is also listed local to me in Los Angeles and I reserve the right to end auction at anytime if sold outside of Ebay.
If you are a Camaro enthusiast then you know the possibilities with this restoration project.
Complete VIN# and X77 trim tag body number will be disclosed after a 500 dollar deposit is funded.

36

Originality / Kick Panel Vent Door Levers

« on: August 20, 2018, 11:55:23 AM »

My original kick panels are a bit chalky and so I've been keeping my eye on used panels, in case they're not restorable.
Have noticed that some kick panels have 2 vent door levers per side, and others have only 1 per side.
My originals have 2 per side, was wondering if the 1-per-side are from a '67, since that year doesn't have Astro ventilation..... but the parts vendors list one type for both '67 and '68, and another for '69.
Soooo..... what are the one-lever kick panels from?

37

Originality / Multi-Leaf Rear, E-Brake Cable Brackets

« on: July 28, 2018, 02:22:51 AM »

Have a couple of questions about e-brake cable brackets; I've been looking for some used originals, have got at least one suspected as repro but would prefer to avoid using it - just too darn shiny and straight to suit the car
1) Do originals have any markings on them that identify them as such? I made a note a few years back that they may have had a 'W' on the cable end...... not sure of the source.
2) The 69 AIM (UPC5, C2) calls up two different part numbers for these, 3923533 LH and 3895206 RH. What is the difference? Repros are marketed as '2 required per car' (for multi-leafs) so must both be the same. Is the difference noticeable, and are these judged?

Reference photo, credited to Heartbeat City:

38

Decoding/Numbers / Caveat Emptor - Future Rebody of 124379N511823

« on: July 16, 2018, 10:22:34 AM »

Ohio Title and VIN tag for 124379N511823 being offered on ebay, located Hollywood, Florida.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Chevrolet-Camaro-SS/273357726809

"You will receive:
- 1969 Camaro SS dash panel w/ the vin plate and a clean title"

"A Dynacorn body will be your best bet for this build.  You will save $ on the body work you would expect from starting w/ an original 69' builder.  Also the vin plate and title will allow you to build a REAL 69 SS CAMARO because without a title & matching vin plate any Dynacorn body is just a big piece of metal..."

39

Restoration / A-Pillar Pads - Cleaning and Protecting

« on: July 13, 2018, 12:15:00 AM »

My car's original dark blue A-pillar pads have both cracked full-width due to the long years it was stored immobile in the Californian desert. I managed to find another dark blue set which are in better condition (crack-wise), but are absolutely filthy.
I'm looking for suggestions for gently cleaning them to remove the grime, without damaging the material (urethane?), and also if there is a product I could apply to protect them further, after cleaning. Many of your US products won't be available here in Australia, but I can hunt around for an equivalent based on recommendations.
I won't be reinstalling the interior until final assembly, which is a loooong way off  so I plan to leave these as-is until just before installation, but want to do the research now.
PS yes the original-to-car parts will also be cleaned and stored.
Thanks!

40

1969 - Orphans / 9N560592 Muncie M20 Case and Parts

« on: July 07, 2018, 02:34:11 AM »

3925660 Muncie M20 main case, with side cover, mid plate and tailshaft housing on ebay. No moving parts.
Partial VIN: 19N560592
Possible full VINs: 124379N560592 or 124679N560592
Assembly Stamp: P9T04A
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Camaro-Muncie-4-speed-parts-3925660-case-3857584-tail-3950306-side-cover/142855377518
Seller ID: stickcarjoe
Location: Church Hill, TN, USA
Description by seller:
1969 Camaro Muncie 4 speed parts 3925660 case 3857584 tail 3950306 side cover. Condition is Used but great condition . Shipped with UPS Ground.. Mid plate pictured is also included . This will fit many other applications however the VIN was from a 1969 Camaro..  Case has no broken ears or repairs, Date Code P9TO4 A . and VIN 19N560592.
Buy Now price: US$450.00

41

Decoding/Numbers / Caveat Emptor - NOR234890

« on: June 09, 2018, 02:08:14 AM »

Buyer beware
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-camaro-cowl-trim-tag-x33-d80-black/332679626167
ST69 12437 NOR 234890
TR 712 10 10 PNT
01C X33D80

Seller's description includes "mint. real deal".....

42

Restoration / Upper A-arm Splash Shields

« on: June 03, 2018, 11:02:09 AM »

Wondering who currently makes the most accurate upper a-arm splash/dust shields for a '69?
I had a set that were thin and so flimsy they could've been cut from a bicycle inner tube......
I've been looking at Steele Rubber's product and it looks good, but also heard a rumour that Trim Parts is going to make them. Did consider buying masticated rubber sheet with the correct short cord fragments in it, but minimum order size makes shipping down under pretty $$.
Any recent experiences/opinions much appreciated!

43

Originality / 1969 Small Block Smog Pump Cradle

« on: May 24, 2018, 12:31:50 PM »

I've been looking for an assembly-line correct smog pump cradle (the lower bracket) for a '69 small block.
Several I've looked at have either one or two small holes in the main flat part of the bracket, directly under where the long bolt passes through the pump casing - similar to the attached reference picture. One bracket I looked at had no holes, but the captive nut was hex rather than square, so I suspected it was a reproduction or service replacement.
I have been told that the correct-for '69 brackets were unique to that year, and only had one hole, but can't find any confirmation of that.
Can anyone confirm if an assembly-line correct bracket should have any additional holes as described,  and if so, one or two? or if there are any other markings or features to look out for? Thanks!

44

Originality / Smog Pump Spacer Usage

« on: May 19, 2018, 07:23:49 AM »

Did any '69 models use a spacer between the smog pump pulley and the white fan, or did all pulleys bolt right up to the fan? I've seen the spacers used on Corvette and others, but so far, not on a first-gen. Thanks!

45

Maintenance / Ignition Coil Bench Test

« on: May 01, 2018, 07:46:53 AM »

What's the correct procedure for bech-testing a stock points ignition coil, and what are the minimum readings for primary and secondary windings to confirm if coil is good or bad?
This is for my Delco-Remy 298 B-R, by the way.