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Messages - X33RS

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1
General Discussion / Re: '68 Camaro Z/28 on eBay
« on: August 20, 2018, 05:55:10 PM »
Yep, have to look at the sellers point of view as well.  Verbal agreements over the phone don't mean much.  Can't tell you how many times I've had calls, "I'll buy it"    and you wait, and wait, and wait, and no one shows up, all kinds of excuses.  Or they try to negotiate over the phone before they have even seen what they are buying, funny.

Honestly I don't waste much time on people like that.  Money talks, and I'm up front about it.  If you're serious and want to send a deposit, that works fine.     Asking me to hold something over the phone for days or weeks until you can come see it, with no money down, not likely.  Just have to be honest about it and tell the buyer, can't hold it without a deposit, if you want it and there are other interested parties, better hurry up.

2
Maintenance / Re: ideal 4053 jetting for stock 302/30-30/manifolds
« on: August 20, 2018, 02:22:46 PM »
Pump cams are color coded and have 2 or 3 holes to use, so lots of adjustability there.

I run the pink cam in the #1 hole and it works flawlessly on the 302.  I upped the squirter size to 31.   My throttle response it crisp and quick.   A lot of that will be in the timing as well.

Mine likes to have 16 initial and currently running 36 total.  I have (adjustable) vacuum advance adding 10 degrees and it's all done by 8 inches of vacuum, much like a factory B28 can.  I welded the slot on the arm to limit what I wanted.  .250" of movement is all that's needed.   I've switched back and forth from ported to manifold vacuum.   Since I drive most of the time up here at 5,000 ft altitude I found mine just prefers manifold vacuum.  Ported is okay, but it tends to run a little warmer that way, and mileage was down with around town stop and go driving.  I have much cleaner and crisper idle with the added timing using manifold vacuum.  Also helps the little 302 that has a pretty rowdy camshaft from the get go make a little more vacuum as well.  With a true 11:1 compression it runs beautifully on 91 octane, and even with the summer temps hovering 100-106 this summer, I never see the engine over 185 degrees shooting it with a inferred gun.  All stock cooling system and the original 49 year old radiator.   So there are some things you could look over and try, see if that helps.

Here's an idle clip of mine.   https://youtu.be/IZ0HlEY7b74 
 
I run what the PS guys call a cheater cam.  It's pretty close to factory spec but it's closer to advertised lift after lash is figured in with a .330 lobe and a tight lash of .014" (.481" lift vs .455").   This was done for a few reasons (take advantage of rules) but one was to also keep valve train beating to a minimum.  It idles near stock and produces stock like vacuum, makes plenty of off idle grunt for a 302.  I can lug it down to 25 mph in 4th gear, with 3.55's out back, about 1100-1200 rpm, and adding throttle easily picks up speed without complaining.  Makes it nice to drive around town with minimal shifting when you get behind slow people.

As far as valve lash, that 90 degree method posted above works fine. 2 at a time assures the lobe is on the base circle, I know engine builders that use it and it works.  What I do is one at a time, rotating each lobe to max lift and then 1 complete crank rotation (= half cam rotation) assuring each lobe is on the base circle, with the biggest difference being I have to rotate the engine over a lot more, and it's more time consuming,  but for me it's just being picky.   Either way, base circle is what you're trying to accomplish and is most important. 

3
Maintenance / Re: ideal 4053 jetting for stock 302/30-30/manifolds
« on: August 18, 2018, 08:40:11 PM »
Stock jetting is 68 front and 76 rear with 6.5 power valves front and back.

A lot of this is going to depend where you live, the altitude, and more importantly the DA the car is regularly driven in.
 
I'll assume you're also running the stock DZ intake.  In which case stagger jetting will give you best results if you're really picky.  Mine made best power by stagger jetting, up on the driver side front and rear 2 sizes bigger than the passenger side of the carb.   I also get better idle quality by staggering the idle mixture screws slightly.  Driver side front barrel feeds #2 and #3 primarily and I could blacken those plugs with too much idle mixture.   Mine is much like yours, my idle mixture screws are out between 1/4 to maybe 3/8 of a turn, which gives me a nice 14:1 AFR while idling where the engine seems to be happy.  If I go out much more than a 1/2 turn the AFR goes pig rich.   My mixture screws are very active, which is good.

I do all my final tuning with a wide band.   Up here at 5,000 ft elevation I find the stock 68 front jetting to be "okay" on AFR readings when running the stock manifolds and original exhaust system.   I eventually switched to headers, and a better flowing 2 1/2" mandrel bent transverse exhaust system.   My car responds best to a 70 jet front passenger side, 72 jet front driver side, and 76 rear passenger side, 78 rear driver side.   It also likes the 6.5 PV's front and rear.   It cruises with an AFR of about 13:1, which works nicely at 5,000 feet, so when driven to sea level it's not going dangerously lean.  Runs closer to 14:1 cruising near sea level, and with a steady cruise of 65 mph, knocks down 17 mpg.

Up here at 5,000 ft my engine is making between 9 and 10 inches of vacuum idling at 1,000 rpm.  So those power valves work fine for me.  If I take more power valve out of it, say 4.5's, it just creates an aggravating stumble off idle that won't go away even with hours of squirter and pump cam changes.   It just likes 6.5's and I have no need to go higher.   Also works fine when I drive the car down to sea level, where the engine makes just over 13" of vacuum.

Keep in mind that if your running todays 10% ethanol pump gas (which I do) stoich is no longer 14.7:1.   Stoich for 10% ethanol is .7 richer at 14:1

4
General Discussion / Re: '68 Camaro Z/28 on eBay
« on: August 17, 2018, 11:18:51 PM »
  I DO think it's possible for an item to be *rebuilt* as good as, or even better than, when it was new, but it requires high quality materials on a par with the original, AND the rebuilder must know his stuff and implement it.

Absolutely, even when new they aren't anywhere near perfect.  When I rebuilt mine it was virgin.  The crank throw was short .002" but is easily corrected when ground.  Some shops don't check this and just regrind without correcting.

Pistons in the hole .020" which doesn't help quench, poor mixture motion, and generally makes them more susceptible to detonation.  Easily corrected with custom piston pin heights and/or decking the block.  Speaking of which the decks are almost always uneven anyway and should be cleaned up.  Even my brand new 502 crate engine sitting here is uneven.

When I tore down my DZ it also had some odd bearing wear in the main saddle.  Turned out it needed an align hone, and the new bearings need to be dressed on the back side to rid them of high spots that create an uneven bearing surface once torqued down, and will generate more heat if not dressed.

Cylinder heads need a lot of attention as well.  Cheap 0-ring seals on the valve stem need to be tossed, they are only marginally good at controlling oil, even with new tight guides.   Best to machine for positive seals for better oil control.  You really don't want oil in the combustion process, especially when pushing the compression deal with todays pump gas.  Speaking of compression, mine, with all the things I mentioned, I believe the highest cylinder after all the measuring was 10.7:1, wasn't even close to the advertised 11:1.

All kinds of improvements to be made on factory stuff, lots of HP to be found as well without even deviating from the stock nature of the engine.    Technically mine got a compression bump even though it's still 11:1, but now a "true" 11:1.

5
Is that the one you mentioned to me last year that a friend of yours at D&R had?  The details sound familiar.  If so I'm glad to see it's getting the attention it deserves.

6
1969 - Orphans / Re: 9N647308 - L72 COPO T0512MN
« on: August 05, 2018, 11:11:19 PM »
There were 3 tracks within short driving distance of the Norwood plant.  We had Beechmont Dragway that opened around 1957.  Tri State opened in (I think) 1961 and is still in business today.   Matter of fact Tri State held the big Hemi shootout there back in 1968 when all the Hemi Darts first came out. It was a happening track at the time.
   The biggest or most popular track we had was Edgewater that I believe opened around 1954 and is also still in operation today.  I assume Dick Weinle is still running it.  We were fairly good friends with Dick as our car club held 2 muscle car events a year there for more than a decade.

And I agree with Gary, 69's are the best  ;D  The extended year helped sales but I think GM refined it and got it right before the major redesign.  There are iconic cars that define an era.  The 32 ford and 57 chevy, and it's been said the 69 Camaro falls in that category as well. 

In all fairness though, pertaining to the Z/28 question in particular, after they won the SCCA Trans Am series championship in 68, and then Strickler winning NHRA Stock Eliminator in the 68 Z on the dragstrip, I think people started to really take notice of this little package.

7
In the early 80's I knew of a 69 SS Nova that had a JM coded engine in it.  I don't know if it was original to the car but the owner history was known at the time back to the original purchaser.  2 different friends of mine wound up with the car.  The original owner was a fellow out of Indiana that was drafted to Vietnam shortly after purchase.  He never returned home and his parents just parked the car.  Scott, a friend of mine,  found the car in the early 80's advertised for sale as an L89 with low miles.  That's when I first saw it.  Didn't run right and turned out the original owner had installed aluminum valve spring retainers (a common modification back then) and there were a couple of them failing and ready to drop a valve.  So he sold the car to a buddy of mine who was a competitive drag racer.  He pulled the engine for a refresh.  Other than headers it was left stock.  Was an automatic on the column and bench seat car.  Silver with black interior, and had 4.56 gears, but I don't know if those were original or not.  He actually raced the car with a pair of slicks and opened the headers.  The car clicked off 3 consecutive 11.90's passes and he put it back on the trailer.  Drove it on the street for a couple more years to various shows and cruises and then was sold to someone in New York with a car collection.  Lost track of it since and never heard of it for sale again.  I was going to purchase the car but was beaten to the punch.  Had protecto plate and other paperwork with it.   But I don't recall if the engine was original or not.  Everyone at the time believed it was a real aluminum headed car but back then it wasn't scrutinized like it is today either.  Wish I would have paid more attention to it at the time.

8
Maintenance / Re: Electric Gremlin
« on: July 29, 2018, 11:28:16 PM »
Sounds like a bad diode or diodes.  They'll cause headlights to flicker, and can also drain batteries rather quickly.   There is a very easy way to test with a volt meter.   Set it to a low AC setting and touch the probes on the battery terminals while the engine is running.  The volt meter should be 0 AC volts.  If it shows anything that's a good sign you have a diode issue.

You can buy them for your particular model alternator and replace, but for most they find it easier to just replace the entire alternator, albeit more expensive.

9
General Discussion / Re: A little help valuing one of my 69s
« on: July 23, 2018, 01:10:11 PM »
Without pictures or viewing in person it's impossible to put a price on a particular example.  I can tell you what I've seen in the last couple years in my neck of the woods.
   A local had an RS 69 Z.  None of the original drivetrain in the car but it did have a running drivetrain in it, some of the correct parts had been collected like intake, carb, block, heads.  Nice rot free Arizona car though with complete interior but the entire car needed a total restoration.  He put $25K on it and it lasted 2 days and was gone without even dickering the price. It was probably priced too cheap.    I also checked out a roller 69Z, non RS, no drivetrain, missing some interior pieces and only a few hard to find parts with the car.  It sold for $20k.

  Both of these were Norwood cars with untampered X code data tags.

10
General Discussion / Re: LED Bulbs Revisited
« on: June 25, 2018, 06:04:14 PM »
I found the original number which is needed to do any cross referencing.

In case anyone needs it....

1816 is the original bulb.  It crosses over to a BA9  LED bulb.

11
General Discussion / Re: LED Bulbs Revisited
« on: June 25, 2018, 02:47:31 AM »
Even if the wrong incandescent bulb is used on the inside tail light of a non RS 69 Camaro it lights up too brightly and will mask the brake light effect of the outside light.  I still see this quite often today.

My father is a big fan of LED and has all his vehicles converted.  He has sort of gotten me toward that path but I haven't done all the cars 100%.   I convert the inside dome lights to LED on all the cars because I've found the regular bulbs will cook the plastic over time with too much heat.  When I tried LED's in the tail lights of our RS Z I didn't really like it.   Looked okay with parking lights on, but with brakes or turn signals it actually turned more orange than red and had this weird look, brand new lenses too.  LED's too bright I guess so I took them back out.  I will say with the LED's in the dome, the rear console, and both under dash lights, and white interior, it's blinding at night.
   I haven't done the dashes on my stuff but my father does.  Have to get the dimmable versions for the dimmer to work.  When I'm driving his I have to dim them down, just too daggum bright for me and makes it more difficult for me to focus on the dark road in front of me.  So I don't do the dashes on my own stuff.

However I wouldn't mind some LED's down in the console gauges.  If I remember right those were odd sized single terminal.  Anyone know that number off hand?

12
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...beware the carefully worded ad
« on: June 21, 2018, 06:25:10 PM »
Neat car, and from what I can see the broadcast sheet shows it's a Z/28.  A plus for a Van Nuys car.  Too bad the owner is muddying the waters with all the mumbo jumbo that is really degrading the car.  A real Z in respectable shape with a real DZ engine in it wouldn't be that hard to sell if the owner would just come back down to reality.

13
Restoration / Re: Heater hoses
« on: June 20, 2018, 02:36:27 AM »
That's interesting James, because my 12D Norwood has the bracket, and Larry's 4C Norwood has the bracket.  Seems we have this lapse or inconsistency.   Then there is the question of how many were a grey phosphate color and how many were black, because the books list both correct.   We can break this down to the point of driving people nuts  ;D

Another question James,   since yours doesn't have the heater hose bracket, is the negative batter cable clip up there in that hole?  Because your battery cable is up pretty high.

On mine, I guess since the hose bracket is there,  the battery cable clip is toward the outside closer to the alternator pulley.  Most of the pics I'm seeing the battery cable clip is outside like mine, even the ones without the heater hose bracket.

14
Restoration / Re: Heater hoses
« on: June 19, 2018, 02:34:34 PM »
Yep that's Larry's, thanks James.  I see the car off and on when he brings it up to the cruise.

15
Restoration / Re: Heater hoses
« on: June 18, 2018, 06:36:46 PM »
I have more pics of survivor 69 Z's that I can't find at the moment, and the one I did find I can't post.  But it's one of Larry Christensen's cars.  Built in Norwood in April and has the clamp.    That's the latest date I've found so far in my collection of survivors.

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