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Messages - X33RS

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Decoding/Numbers / Re: interesting but rough...
« on: December 10, 2018, 03:00:17 AM »
Possibly, but we can only comment and speculate on what we see in the picture.  A repaint with spoiler removed seems a little out of the ordinary though, considering everyone under the sun adds a spoiler to these darn things, lol.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: interesting but rough...
« on: December 09, 2018, 04:42:25 PM »
Correct, but it was mentioned earlier in this thread that by this late in production specific items were running low in inventory.   The spoiler and the way the paint appears is just an observation on my part and I'm in no way insinuating with 100% certainty that's how the car was equipped.

 Just seems strange the way the car appears in the pics,  the stripes under the spoiler are correct for a non spoiler car, yet a spoiler was on the car during a repaint at some point in it's life and stripes painted incorrectly, and yet had D80 on the data plate.  Technically there shouldn't be stripe paint under that spoiler on a real D80 car.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: interesting but rough...
« on: December 09, 2018, 01:37:47 PM »

My question is what's with the different stripe layout on the deck lid, (where the spoiler would have been)?

A repaint, and they laid down the stripes more narrow?

Looks to me that this possibly wasn't a spoiler car since it has original stripes out to the edge of the decklid under the spoiler, and spoiler was added later during a repaint with incorrect stripe placement.  Kind of funny they still can't get the stripes right even with an example sitting right in front of them, lol.

General Discussion / Re: Another 69Z project for sale (orange this time)
« on: December 09, 2018, 01:20:36 PM »
It's obviously been painted in the past, or some of it anyway. It's too early of a car to have a ZL2 hood and wide rear spoiler.  So it's not as virgin as it may sound in the description. Interesting it has front bumper guards but the rear ones are gone.   But looks like a possible cool project if everything else checks out okay.  I like the color combo, and I'm a sucker for white interior.

Yep, Bill Thomas used to do conversions out in Southern California.  He had some pretty recognizable race cars back in the day as well.  I believe one of his early 60's nova race cars was discovered a couple years ago and being restored.

Mild Modifications / Re: High-Level Brake Light
« on: November 20, 2018, 03:18:14 PM »
Wow, never heard that before.  Guess you don't have any Shelby's registered in your state, lol.   Matter of fact, many of the newer motorcycles sold today come from the factory with this safety feature.

Mild Modifications / Re: High-Level Brake Light
« on: November 20, 2018, 03:11:18 AM »
Something I like that is inconspicuous and might be of interest to those that want safety without a visible third brake light.

A brake light strobe module.  Easy to install, hidden, and various styles will flash the tail lights any number of different ways before they go solid, every time you hit the brakes.  It's a pretty decent attention getter that keeps the car looking completely stock.  They are cheap too at $5 to $10

General Discussion / Re: Not sure where this should be posted
« on: November 19, 2018, 02:53:41 PM »

I know of two ZL1 Camaros that were raced from new; both engines were decked as part of a race engine build-up.

This.^^   It was not uncommon, then or now, to deck a block during a rebuild or blueprint.  Not because of damage, but because the deck heights on almost nearly every engine...well.....sucked, to put it lightly.

Almost every engine build we do here requires decking if the customer is worried about having a tight quench and even deck height and compression ratios across the cylinders.  I can't tell you how many virgin blocks I've seen that are uneven (taper) from one end to the other, as much as .011"  and this can't be corrected without decking.  Even my brand new Gen 6 502 crate engine has an uneven deck height, and the pistons are .020" in the hole to boot.  Not a good scenario when looking to make HP.

If you find a good machinist willing, they can be decked without disturbing the stamps.  Another option, as long as the block is even front to back, rather than decking, I prefer to do custom piston pin heights to get the piston at or very near "zero" deck for better quench and mixture motion.

It's all pretty common practice these days to "square things up" during a proper rebuild.


Oddly, I haven't seen much in the way of any Camaro celebrations when the 50th rolled around for 67, but when Mustangs had their 50th celebrations 2 years prior, they had mustang gatherings all over the desert South West here.   So I'm not expecting much out here for the 69 Camaro celebrations either.

Yeah there wasnt anything special for the 67 for the 50th. The local Camaro club im a member of tried getting with a few other regionals to put together a big regional meet but met a lot of no's. I went to Sturgis Camaro rally last year as well and they really didnt do anything for the 67, but then not many first gens at the show.

  I never could understand why.  Not like Camaros aren't popular.   2 years prior mustang clubs everywhere were having huge 50th events that seemed to be everywhere throughout the year.  I had the SCJ at a couple.  Even a big event with a Rt66 cruise that ended in Vegas where they had a 3 day weekend event with show, swap  and racing etc....  I guess the mustang guys got it going on, lol.   I was looking forward to the 50th for the Camaro to roll around.....never happened.   About the closest thing we have this year is Goodguys next month where they have a Camaro corral parking area, along with Tri-5's, Trucks, air cooled VW's, and several others with specialty parking, so it's not like Camaros are being celebrated.  Oh well.

Maintenance / Re: 302 Valve adjustment
« on: October 31, 2018, 02:53:40 PM »
Thanks everyone for the help. I readjusted the valves over the weekend and it now runs and sounds great. For some reason number 1 and number 4 valves were a little loose. I originally used the EOIC method when the engine was on the engine stand. This time I used the 90 degree method which I think is the best method to make sure the cam is on its base circle.

Just as some of us were trying to explain, that was just the product of a few lobes not being exactly on the base circle and why the EOIC method isn't always accurate.   With the lobe designs of these cams, new and old, it's just best to make sure you're on base circle for lash settings.  Glad to hear it's running fine.  Great looking Z.

Decemeber?  In Illinois?   Won't catch my butt any further East than the Arizona boarder this time of year, lol.

Oddly, I haven't seen much in the way of any Camaro celebrations when the 50th rolled around for 67, but when Mustangs had their 50th celebrations 2 years prior, they had mustang gatherings all over the desert South West here.   So I'm not expecting much out here for the 69 Camaro celebrations either.

What would be cool is to have a gathering at the old Bee Line track here North of Scottsdale where these cars first attended the Winter Nationals and made their debut in January 69.  Not much left of that track today unfortunately, but sure is a heck of a lot warmer here this time of year  ;D.

Maintenance / Re: 302 Valve adjustment
« on: October 21, 2018, 11:56:18 PM »
I prefer the one at a time method, by rotating each valve to peak lift, then one full crank revolution so I can be certain the camshaft is exactly on the base circle.  Takes longer, but is dead nuts accurate.   The method on this site will also work very similar if you don't want to rotate the engine as much.

The reason for this is to make absolutely sure the cam is on the base circle.   With so many lobe profiles these days and differences in lash ramps etc... it's just good practice.

As far as the rockers, I don't see where that would make much difference in your lash adjustment.  However the stock rockers are in fact notorious for varied ratios.  The aftermarket stuff like Comp and Harland tend to be a bit over their advertised ratio.  Depending on the spring pressure you run you may find the "running ratio" changes due to flex at the rocker and the pushrod.  I always check with a dial indicator.   I'd bet you'll find those comp roller tips to be in the 1.55 range.

I'd simply go back through your lash adjustments and recheck, you may find you simply have a couple you didn't lash the same.  Roller tip rockers are tricky.  I make a conscious effort to pull the feeler gauge sideways because the roller can give you a false sense pulling perpendicular.

General Discussion / Re: Original dealer info for 1st gens is available
« on: October 21, 2018, 11:45:18 PM »
Baa, it's not that far Austin, maybe 25 miles, lol.  I drive it in less than 30 minutes if the traffic isn't bad.

General Discussion / Re: Original dealer info for 1st gens is available
« on: October 21, 2018, 02:50:15 PM »
Interesting.  My ram air Formula came from Bill Lang Pontiac/Cadillac in Vallejo just north of Oakland.  Bill Lang is just an abandoned dirt lot now, not the best part of town these days.

Maintenance / Re: Tuning a 4053 with AFR
« on: October 19, 2018, 02:31:31 PM »
91 is all we have here as well.  Not the best, but my DZ with 11:1 is running fantastic on it with the tune I mentioned above.  Been daily driving it for about 2 years now.  I'm running mine at 36 degrees of total timing (no vacuum advance) and all in by 2600 rpm.  I'm adding an additional 10 degrees of vacuum advance at part/light throttle conditions.  The factory cam has so much overlap it bleeds off a ton of low speed cylinder pressure making the compression ratio manageable, as long as the cam isn't installed really advanced. 

     This tune has gotten me a pinch over 17 mpg on the last 300 mile cruise on Rt 66, holding a steady 65 mph with 3.55's out back.  It routinely gets 14 mpg driving around town in traffic on 25-45 mph streets.

If you feel you're hearing some detonation, pull the plugs and look closely (I use magnifying glass) at the porcelain for black speckles (like pepper)   May take a fresh set of plugs and a couple of WOT pulls to see anything, if there is detonation.

I have my timing coming in fairly quickly with no issues.  If yours has a similar curve, and you feel like it's necessary to pull timing or you think you may see something on the plugs, a simple change would be to just slow the curve down a bit with a stiffer spring, rather than pull initial out of it which would affect idle quality, vacuum, and your overall total timing.   Just some thoughts.

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