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Messages - X33RS

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1
General Discussion / Re: Newbie Needs some help with a 69 Z 28
« on: April 21, 2018, 01:50:57 PM »
I have a question William.  Since it may possibly be related to the required tach option you posted.

When the required tach option went into affect (I'm guessing Feb onward??) would this also be the same time frame they changed the tach to the 6-8 configuration??  Or was that phased in a little later?

2
Originality / Re: 69 Oil Pressure Line Firewall Hole Location
« on: April 18, 2018, 05:34:39 PM »
The original one that William posted is my 12D Norwood built Z.  That grommet even has a part number on it if you can blow the picture up enough to see it.  From what I understand that isn't reproduced. 

As far as I remember (been a while since I've been under the dash) that hole doesn't run into anything inside and comes out right at the bottom of the heater box (the added piece found on console cars).  The Van Nuys examples that appear lower I think would be even better and would be right in the area where the front carpet is split as factory console cars had a 2 piece front carpet set. 

Mine however wasn't hooked up, and the firewall had so much gook and grime on it, you couldn't see the grommet.  The oil pressure gauge never worked and I had assumed it probably wasn't a factory gauge car, but I knew it was at least a factory console car.  Wasn't till I started cleaning the firewall that the grommet appeared.  I found remnants of the original line in the ash tray including the tall brass block fitting.  I surmise the oil line busted at some point and sprayed the firewall with oil, which over the years turned into accumulated gunk an inch thick.  Rather than fix it someone decided to just stick a pipe plug in the block.

3
Originality / Re: 69 Oil Pressure Line Firewall Hole Location
« on: April 16, 2018, 08:09:50 PM »
I'm glad it was useful for something.

4
Originality / Re: 69 Oil Pressure Line Firewall Hole Location
« on: April 16, 2018, 06:53:27 PM »
Ha, that looks like mine William  ;D
 
Back when you were helping me determine how the car came equipped.

5
Garage Talk / Re: Attending Hot August Nights - Virginia City Nevada
« on: March 31, 2018, 02:37:08 PM »
I've been a few times.  We always stayed with my sister-in-law so I can't be of any help on the motel deal.  But I would assume they fill up fast, and even though we are still 4 months out, I'm guessing many are already full.

As far as the event, it's a great time.  Basically a car show at every motel, and the swap meet I've found has always been fantastic.  Lake Tahoe is beautiful and plenty of other places to take your classic for a scenic drive.  Worth the trip.

6
Mild Modifications / Re: Exhaust Advice Needed
« on: March 22, 2018, 08:40:31 PM »
A good example of that  is our Z I posted above.  I built that engine with the same rules in mind in hopes of participating with that car.  Even with the valve spring limit, it still made peak power at 6700 rpm, I shifted in that video at 7,000.  I installed that cam only 2 degrees advance, wanted to make sure it made power up stares where these engines shine anyway, plus the stock camshaft is very healthy for a little 302 with 254 @ .050.   SBC has lighter valve train components than a Pontiac so that helps too.  For this car to run it's best it needs a bunch of gear.  Complete opposite end of the spectrum than the Pontiac.

7
Mild Modifications / Re: Exhaust Advice Needed
« on: March 22, 2018, 07:07:08 PM »
Video clips aren't working for me for some reason.

I ran both the American Thunder and the Force II FLowmaster transverse systems.   The American Thunder was hella loud with a ton of interior drone, after 6 months of daily driving I removed it. Switched to the Force II.   The Force II was more mellow, but oddly enough Flowmaster discontinued that system a few years back.

I ran both on my Formula, still have the systems stashed away.  I eventually switched my Formula to the same system I have on the Z I posted above.  I wanted the "X" cross over instead of the "H" was one reason for the change, and I wanted a stainless system was the other reason.  Plus the Pypes transverse muffler is touted as a straight through design and worth a little HP over the baffle/deflector style.  I was looking for a little edge in the Pure Stock racing category.

  Here is my Formula, setup to run Pure Stock with it's original 400 RAIII, running stock RA manifolds and the same Pypes 2 1/2" system.

https://youtu.be/er1z7PpqsnY     

Not only did the car pick up about 2 tenths with this system over the others, but it's also a very mellow sound, no drone in the car, very quiet to cruise down the road in.

Here's a ride along to get an idea how quiet it is inside the car.  Matter of fact, it's so quiet inside, I could hardly hear my car at all with the "open header" car next to me.  So much so that I quit looking at the tach for a few seconds and didn't even realize I had run 2nd gear out to 5700....Oooops.  It runs best shifting around 5200.

https://youtu.be/bpFwscg7uoY   

5200? I shifted my old TransAm 400 4 speed at 6100. :)

Even my current “old school 468” with 4 inch stroke occasionally gets above 6k.  :)

Don’t they at least let you run better valve springs???



They limit valve spring seat pressure to 130 lbs.    Which is plenty on a stock flat tappet to spin it up.  5700 doesn't hurt the engine and it runs fine up there, the car just doesn't go any quicker.   One big reason is because I have the factory cam advanced (installed on a 106 ICL) for a little more bottom end.  I did that because I only run a 3.31 gear in the car.  And that gear is in there because it's also a driver for us.  Cam is just the stock RAIII 212/225 @ .050 and .407 lift.

If I had my way the car would run best with a 3.73-ish gear, and then I'd probably move the cam out to a 109 ICL to shift the power up a bit and adjust shift points accordingly.  So there is more ET in it, I'm just not exploiting it.     However the quickest of the RAIII 400's in the class all pretty much run 3.73-3.90 gear and are right at high 12's and 107-108 mph on a good day.  Mine corrects to a 12.78 at 106 so I'm just about on par, without the rear gear.  So pretty happy with it actually.

8
Mild Modifications / Re: Exhaust Advice Needed
« on: March 22, 2018, 06:57:00 PM »
Video clips aren't working for me for some reason.
Same for everyone else? I just made them public, so maybe that will help. I don't have to do that with regular pics.

Okay working for me now, thanks.

Sounds pretty good, fairly mellow.

9
Mild Modifications / Re: Exhaust Advice Needed
« on: March 21, 2018, 03:27:45 PM »
Video clips aren't working for me for some reason.

I ran both the American Thunder and the Force II FLowmaster transverse systems.   The American Thunder was hella loud with a ton of interior drone, after 6 months of daily driving I removed it. Switched to the Force II.   The Force II was more mellow, but oddly enough Flowmaster discontinued that system a few years back.

I ran both on my Formula, still have the systems stashed away.  I eventually switched my Formula to the same system I have on the Z I posted above.  I wanted the "X" cross over instead of the "H" was one reason for the change, and I wanted a stainless system was the other reason.  Plus the Pypes transverse muffler is touted as a straight through design and worth a little HP over the baffle/deflector style.  I was looking for a little edge in the Pure Stock racing category.

  Here is my Formula, setup to run Pure Stock with it's original 400 RAIII, running stock RA manifolds and the same Pypes 2 1/2" system.

https://youtu.be/er1z7PpqsnY     

Not only did the car pick up about 2 tenths with this system over the others, but it's also a very mellow sound, no drone in the car, very quiet to cruise down the road in.

Here's a ride along to get an idea how quiet it is inside the car.  Matter of fact, it's so quiet inside, I could hardly hear my car at all with the "open header" car next to me.  So much so that I quit looking at the tach for a few seconds and didn't even realize I had run 2nd gear out to 5700....Oooops.  It runs best shifting around 5200.

https://youtu.be/bpFwscg7uoY   

10
Mild Modifications / Re: Exhaust Advice Needed
« on: March 20, 2018, 03:59:30 PM »
I used to see owners swap valve covers all the time on power brake cars back in the day.  Makes it much easier to get oil in the engine.  Some people still have that thought process it seems.


If that chamber exhaust isn't aggressive sounding, I'd guess the engine has no compression and/or camshaft in it.   Typically a small block with some compression and camshaft will make that exhaust system pop and cackle pretty good to the point of obnoxious.    Which is why many were recalled and eventually removed from the option sheet all together.

Our Z was built after chamber became non-standard, so it is equipped with the deep tone muffler setup.  Up until last year it still actually had it's born with exhaust system still intact on the car (now pulled and stashed away)

Here's a sound clip with it's 49 year old exhaust system.  Even this system is a little loud a cackly.  11:1 compression 302.

https://youtu.be/SDMeBoQpf58

Here is the Pypes transverse 2 1/2" system with "X" and tailpipes turned down behind the quarters 67-68 style.  Deeper tone, not cackly anymore, but was a bit too loud for my wife.

https://youtu.be/5dTNw93VPEQ

So I adapted factory reproduction 69 2" tail pipes to the system to help tone it down a bit.  It's now very quiet inside the car and comfortable to carry on a conversation.

https://youtu.be/IZ0HlEY7b74     

Here's a ride along inside the car.  Just the first minute and a half is all that's needed to get an idea of the noise level inside.

https://youtu.be/5vX6hVQ_cKw   


11
Maintenance / Re: Correct spark plugs
« on: March 20, 2018, 03:49:14 PM »
As mentioned the 186 heads are gasket 13/16 plugs, not the taper 5/8 plug (R45TS)

I prefer the extended tip plugs that have the "S" on the end of the part number.  Example R45S   All this does is put the electrode slightly deeper into the combustion chamber for a more complete burn and better combustion process.   If you run an R45 for example, same plug, but you'll clearly see the ground strap and electrode are somewhat hidden up inside the plug.   We used to call these plugs oil burnin plugs because back in the day we used them on engines that were burning oil, less likely to foul the plugs since the electrode was hidden up inside a bit LOL.

These days I use Autolite.   For the 186 heads you'll want Autolite 85's or 86's.   The interesting thing about these is that they are already extended tip plugs and as far as I know that's the only way they come from Autolite, they don't make the non-extended tip (oil plugs  ;D)

The only difference between this and their racing plug is a shorter ground strap that exposes a bit of the electrode.   I cut the ground strap back a pinch on the standard Autolite plugs for the same affect.

12
Maintenance / Re: Fuel Pump/ Vapor lock issues
« on: March 19, 2018, 11:03:51 PM »
Living in AZ and driving our classics daily, fuel supply is something to pay attention to.

The return lines are a wonderful thing.  If a car is factory equipped with one I definitely use it.   It does aid in keeping the fuel a little cooler, constantly circulating and not sitting stagnant in the fuel line possibly absorbing heat.   I run stock mechanical pumps on our stock or near stock vehicles.  Care has to be taken to make sure the lines aren't laying on a heat source and have ample space for some air circulation.  I see some pretty cobbled up fuel lines on classic cars.

Our 69 Z (obviously) was never built with a return line, however with all correct factory fuel lines, new sock in the tank, new stock pump, heat cross over open and functional for factory divorce choke etc.....  My wife daily drives it, and we reach ambient temps in the 105 range during the summer months.  I've never experienced any hint of vapor lock with this car.  We always run 91 octane in it as well.  I do run a 1/4" thick gasket under the carb just as an attempt to help with any possible heat soak, even if it's a marginal attempt. 

Gas is another point worth mentioning.  The lower the octane you run, the more susceptible you are to heat soak and vapor lock issues.  The flash point of the fuel is much lower.   The gas formulations are also quite different today than they were even 15-20 years ago and tend to lend themselves more susceptible to heat.   Because of this a car that is marginally getting by could possibly see heat soak problems off and on depending on the station you use or the octane you pump in.

There are ways to combat it.  Some will block the heat cross over if living in warmer climates, which does help to keep the carb cooler.  I like to run cooler thermostats as well.  The cooler I can keep things under the hood as a whole, the better off I am.

Newer cars never see the issue because they run fuel systems that push fuel from the back with pressure at 58 psi or higher.   Electric fuel pumps can be retrofitted to classics to help combat the issue, but frankly I haven't really found the need for that as long as everything else is functioning properly.

13
General Discussion / Re: Stand-alone Bluetooth FM radio
« on: March 18, 2018, 06:41:16 PM »
I simply used Classic Auto Sounds for ours.  I don't like cutting things and prefer the stock look, but wanted a modern sound system since we drive ours daily.

Their radio has a stock appearance, bolts in like a stock radio with stock knobs so at a glance it does appear stock, but has blue tooth, MP3 capabilities as well as extra connections for amps and things of the sort if you want to take it that far.    I hide the MP3 in the glove box, the buttons normally to slide the bar for stations are electronic, with digital display on the screen.  When the radio is turned off there is an analog script on the face to appear like a stock radio.

Overall pretty happy with it.  I kept the install very simple.   I hide 6x9's out back under the package tray that can't be seen, and used a Classic Auto Sounds mount for dual front speakers under the original dash location.   Works excellent for what we wanted and didn't cut a single thing on the car.

14
General Discussion / Re: Aftermarket Rally Wheels
« on: March 13, 2018, 03:17:30 PM »
I found these on ebay & ordered a set for my 68 Project last weekend. I havent received them yet but at the price, I couldn't hardly pass them up & figured they are worth the risk. They have a 4"backspacing instead of the 4.25 but I think they will be just fine on this non pedigree car.  Good used GM rally wheels are getting much harder to come by in my neck of the woods and on ebay the prices are getting pretty steep.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-15X7-Silver-Steel-Wheel-for-1969-1977-Chevrolet-Camaro-560-00806/282846934298?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

The 4" back space will work fine.  I took off my original YH's since my wife drives it daily.  I ran FW's for a while but have recently changed to AR Torque Thrust originals that have 3.75" back space (basically Atlas).  Works perfectly fine with 255-60-15's on the back and 215-65-15's on the front.  It's close but it works and no rubbing.   I figured if I'm not going to run the YH's I may as well go for the day 2 look and they are nearly half the cost of what people are grabbing for rallys at the swap meets, not even rare coded wheels, that's just crazy.

15
Restoration / Re: 1969 coupe trunk floor
« on: March 12, 2018, 07:15:07 PM »
Joe,

I did a trunk floor in a 69 coupe about a year ago.  As long as you aren't putting in a pan the entire width that goes all the way over to the trunk drop offs (and on an Arizona car I can't imagine why you would since they generally hold water and rust in the center lowest section) then it does in fact fit through the trunk opening.

The one I did was an AZ car as well with a leaky back window, hence the reason the trunk floor had pin holes.  All that water just sits in the middle and rust doesn't affect the sides, so the owner elected I carefully trim the pan center to replace the rust, which was actually all that was needed for the repair.

  If doing a car from the rust belt, then things would likely get more extensive.

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