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Messages - jeff68

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Restoration / Re: Can you identify this part?
« on: October 25, 2017, 03:04:53 PM »
I think you can remove the rear view mirror assembly and put that piece into position.  My memory is fuzzy, but I think I forgot this on my car, and put it in place after the fact.  What I can't remember is if I was able to get to the screw, or if I installed it with a little bit of adhesive.  I'm pretty sure the screw is not accessible after the fact.

I seem to remember putting the rearview mirror boot/visor clip in place, seeing a gap between the boot and the header molding, then having an "oh, sh*t" moment as I remembered that rubber block.

Restoration / Re: Can you identify this part?
« on: October 25, 2017, 02:45:23 PM »
It's the rubber bumper for the top middle of the windshield frame.  It gets installed on the windshield frame before the chrome header moldings are installed, and provides support for them.

Originality / Re: Exhaust line for a small block: which one to buy ?
« on: August 29, 2017, 01:12:55 PM »
It's aluminized steel.  I don't think Gardner does stainless systems. 

Hint:  Wear gloves when installing the system, then wipe down with lacquer thinner after it's all in place.  This will eliminate those nasty little fingerprints.

Originality / Re: Exhaust line for a small block: which one to buy ?
« on: August 29, 2017, 12:14:36 PM »
I have a Gardner deep tone exhaust (with concours show package) on my 68 convertible.  It fits beautifully, looks perfect, and sounds very nice.  As noted, not cheap.  The guys at Gardner were excellent to work with.

My only issue is regarding the sealant they supply for the exhaust joints.  The sealant that came with mine was an acid-cure clear silicone sealant.  This means that it reacts with moisture in the air and produces an acid when it cures.  IMO, not what you want in a $$$$$ exhaust system.  I used non-corrosive Permatex Ultra Grey at the slip joints instead.  They guys at Gardner say the original sealant was clear, but I'm OK with the grey as it isn't noticeable at all.

Garage Talk / Re: 40 Years Later, not that much has changed....
« on: July 20, 2017, 05:14:04 PM »
Maybe it's just me, but with those glasses & 'stache you have a little bit of an old school "Weird Al" vibe going on in the first picture.  Just needed more hair.

Site Comments/Discussion / Re: problems...BIG time!
« on: June 30, 2017, 06:44:31 PM »
I have a lot of PB photos in my posts as well.

What's a good alternative?

Maintenance / Re: hesitation while driving
« on: June 21, 2017, 09:57:46 PM »
Suggestions on a reputable company?
Cliff Ruggles (Cliff's High Performance) did mine.  He jetted mine for the 10% ethanol blend gas we have around here.  I couldn't be happier.  If it weren't for those secondaries opening & giving you a big kick in the butt, you'd swear the car was fuel injected.  The only issue is turn-around time.  I think mine took 3 months.

Originality / Re: Non reveal felts
« on: June 16, 2017, 11:14:33 AM »
My door weatherstripping used plastic retainers front & back.  The retainers are available from HBC under p/n WTS-1027.

Restoration / Re: Rochester 4MV Quadrajet
« on: June 15, 2017, 04:56:03 PM »
....and cut to the chase....the green teflon  stuff didn't appear till late 69 early 70.

My intent is not to argue, but that isn't an accurate statement.  I have an original owner 68 with the original Q-Jet carb and it originally had the green stuff.  Built in June 1968.

Here is a pic of the carb before restoration:

Restoration / Re: Rochester 4MV Quadrajet
« on: May 22, 2017, 04:49:52 PM »
Try contacting Cliff Ruggles at Cliff's High Performance:

Restoration / Re: 69 Deluxe door panel.
« on: May 22, 2017, 04:48:19 PM »
Find the weakest solvent that will remove the coating.  Test it in a hidden area first, like behind the door handle cup.  Maybe start with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol and work your way 'up' from there.  I've found that the vinyl that the door panels are made from is some pretty tough stuff.  IIRC, I ended up having to use lacquer thinner to remove paint from a set of original deluxe panels.

To give them a fresh look, I recommend SEM Color Coat in Landau Black.  Prep with SEM Soap, followed by Vinyl Prep, then use the Color Coat.

Restoration / Re: Idler Arm Boot
« on: March 05, 2017, 03:54:36 PM »
Crazy Glue and Loctite 380 are both types of instant CA adhesives, usually referred to as 'super glue'.  Regular chain store super glue is usually brittle, and while it bonds to rubber very well, it is not flexible.  Loctite 380 is a rubber-toughened with some flexibility, so it's usually the go-to glue to use for bonding o-rings and other rubber that is required to flex a little.

Restoration / Re: Idler Arm Boot
« on: March 03, 2017, 05:25:46 PM »
I might try de-greasing mine real well and use some rubber cement.
I would suggest using an adhesive such as Loctite 380 (aka "Black Max").  It should work very well in an application like this.  We specify this at work for bonding split o-rings.

I guess I assumed timing would have already been optimized with what you have. Carb may or may not help much - depending on what you do.
If the original engine had (or has) a smog system, then there is a lot to be gained from re-mapping the timing (assuming the smog system has been removed or 'gutted' so it doesn't function).  The original timing on the smog equipped cars was really weird.

The other simple mods that will help and will not really change the car are:
- plug the "hot slot" exhaust crossover on the intake manifold and replace the heat riser with a 'blank' piece (or just remove the valve disc for a stock look)
- change to an electronic ignition like the Breakerless SE
- have the old Quadrajet rebuilt and set up for ethanol fuel (IMO, go right to Cliff Ruggles - he's the man for Q-Jets)

Now, I can't quote any horsepower numbers, but I did all of the above on my L30 327 and it was very noticeable.  I wouldn't call re-mapping the timing "super simple", as it took a lot of time & patience to get it just right.  Everything else was quite easy.  My car now drives beautifully, with instant throttle response and more power than I can ever remember.

For more info on setting up the timing, here is what I did:

Originality / Re: Points Distributor Cap
« on: February 02, 2017, 12:50:24 PM »
You're welcome.
If shopping for a NOS D-409 rotor, here is what I have found:  If the box has "ROTOR X" printed on it, then it is the older long electrode type.  If the box has "ROTOR 2X" on it, it is the later E-stamped type.

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