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Messages - jeff68

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Restoration / Re: Idler Arm Boot
« on: March 03, 2017, 05:25:46 PM »
I might try de-greasing mine real well and use some rubber cement.
I would suggest using an adhesive such as Loctite 380 (aka "Black Max").  It should work very well in an application like this.  We specify this at work for bonding split o-rings.

I guess I assumed timing would have already been optimized with what you have. Carb may or may not help much - depending on what you do.
If the original engine had (or has) a smog system, then there is a lot to be gained from re-mapping the timing (assuming the smog system has been removed or 'gutted' so it doesn't function).  The original timing on the smog equipped cars was really weird.

The other simple mods that will help and will not really change the car are:
- plug the "hot slot" exhaust crossover on the intake manifold and replace the heat riser with a 'blank' piece (or just remove the valve disc for a stock look)
- change to an electronic ignition like the Breakerless SE
- have the old Quadrajet rebuilt and set up for ethanol fuel (IMO, go right to Cliff Ruggles - he's the man for Q-Jets)

Now, I can't quote any horsepower numbers, but I did all of the above on my L30 327 and it was very noticeable.  I wouldn't call re-mapping the timing "super simple", as it took a lot of time & patience to get it just right.  Everything else was quite easy.  My car now drives beautifully, with instant throttle response and more power than I can ever remember.

For more info on setting up the timing, here is what I did:

Originality / Re: Points Distributor Cap
« on: February 02, 2017, 12:50:24 PM »
You're welcome.
If shopping for a NOS D-409 rotor, here is what I have found:  If the box has "ROTOR X" printed on it, then it is the older long electrode type.  If the box has "ROTOR 2X" on it, it is the later E-stamped type.

Originality / Re: Points Distributor Cap
« on: February 01, 2017, 04:28:15 PM »
Tim - I know you didn't ask about the rotor, and I have no idea if you already know this, but...
it's a good idea to use a rotor without the "E" stamp on the electrode, as the electrode is slightly longer.

Mild Modifications / Re: New pipes are next: Any opinions?
« on: February 01, 2017, 02:37:38 PM »
I guess it's only a power loss if you are going back to an original type Gardner system from a 'performance' system.  If you are out to get every last bit of power out of the engine, then go with a high-flow system.  If you are more of a 'correct' exhaust guy, then get the Gardner system.  I don't think the engine will feel restricted or held back by the stock type exhaust.  I have the Gardner system and my little L30 327 seems to have plenty of power!

Restoration / Re: Koni shock replacement bushings, decals ???
« on: January 19, 2017, 04:02:24 PM »
The Koni web site still shows the 80-1914 (no A) and 80-1915 as available.  You could contact them to see if you could get a set of bushing/hardware for those and hope for the best. 

The Koni web site also shows the small triangle decals, but they are slightly different:

You may want to try contacting David Townsend, his web site is .  I saw on an MGB forum where someone scanned & sent him some old Koni stickers that look just like yours.  Not sure he ever reproduced them, but it's worth a shot contacting him. 

Check out the MGB forum thread showing the NOS Koni decals:,2696370,2696370#msg-2696370

If that doesn't get you anywhere, try contacting Greg Lilly at Underground Graphics in Houston.  They made me some custom decals for brake calipers that came out awesome.  If you can get him a scan of the decal, he can do the rest.  He does custom work at reasonable prices.  His website is:

Originality / Re: L30/M20 Production:
« on: January 18, 2017, 02:22:39 PM »
Interesting.  So there were over twice as many 68s built than estimated in the L30/M20 Research Report.
Is there any way to break down the production numbers to get how many 68 L30/M20 convertibles were made?

Not trying to point out what's wrong with this car, but what's up with the clear tape?  It's on the top radiator hose, the rear edges of the door panels, and appears to be over the signature on the glove box door.  Maybe even on the air cleaner snorkel.  Interesting, looks to be an attempt to protect these parts.

Restoration / Re: Console volt meter gauge issue 68 SS/RS
« on: December 18, 2016, 11:12:01 PM »
The console gauge is an ammeter, not a volt meter  (well, technically I guess it is a voltmeter that is looking at a voltage differential to determine how much the alternator is charging).  Either way, I don't know the answer to your question regarding using the original ammeter with a different alternator/regulator set-up.  Hopefully, someone else can answer your question.  However, there is a voltmeter available that will install in place of the original ammeter and look like it belongs there.  It is made by American Autowire.  I installed one in my car, and it is a very nice upgrade in my opinion.

General Discussion / Re: Want a good laugh?
« on: December 12, 2016, 07:44:39 PM »
They could of at least put a door edge guard on both sides.

Garage Talk / Re: My 68 recently was in Muscle Car Review
« on: December 12, 2016, 01:53:08 PM »
Shhhh.  We don't want too many people knowing about these L30/M20s.  Before you know it, people will be faking them like SS & Z28 cars.  ;)

General Discussion / Re: 68 convertible on CL
« on: December 02, 2016, 01:26:33 PM »
I like the tow strap & the ruts from the rear tires being dragged.  Real or not, it's a cool 'barn find' picture. 

P01 wheel covers, but SS badging and weird looking stripe.  Hmmm.

If there is enough meat left, is it possible to carefully drill a little deeper to install the RPV.  Also, is it possible that there are different size RPVs (or even brass inserts) for drum/drum versus disc/drum master cylinders?  Did you get a drum/drum or disc/drum MC rebuild kit?

I had to install RPVs into my drum/drum MC because the shop that sleeved it apparently thought they weren't necessary.  It was a relatively straight-forward job:

Here are a few more diagrams showing the RPV (check) valves:

General Discussion / Re: Windshield dam dimensions
« on: October 25, 2016, 01:29:13 PM »
When the windshield got put in my car, we 'dry' fit it along with the moldings to get the foam dam thickness & position correct.  I can't remember right now which foam dam I ended up going with, but it was one of these high density foam tapes from Marcy Adhesives:
ME6492  1/8" x 3/16"
ME6493  3/16" x 3/16"
ME6494  1/4" x 1/4"
ME6495  5/16" x 1/4"
ME6496  3/8" x 1/4"

Contact John Kelsey at Kelsey Tire and see if there is anything he can do for you.  It is possible that he has the molds, but isn't making the tires you want due to limited demand.  John is a really nice guy to deal with.  PM me for his direct email address if you can't find it.

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