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#91
Maintenance / 1969 Speedometer Removal The E...
Last post by COPOZ/28 - October 06, 2026, 03:11:47 PMIf your speedometer needs service, it can easily be removed without having to remove the dash pad, possibly dropping the steering column an inch or so, unplugging numerous wiring connectors and removing the entire Speedo/Fuel/Clock/Tach gauge cluster as a unit.
For safety, before starting, disconnect a battery cable. Next, remove the four Phillips head screws holding the speedo's lens cover to the dash (two at the top of the lens cover and two below the bottom of the lens cover, where the wiper switch is located). Then, to disconnect the speedo cable, reach your hand behind the dash from underneath -- the speedo cable is inserted into the back of the speedo and a small circular spring clip around the cable's end fitting holds it in place. Depress the spring clip with your thumb and pull the cable out of the speedo. Next, reach up under the dash and remove the two ¼" hex head screws, one on either side of the mechanism, that hold the speedo to the gauge cluster. I suggest using a very small box end wrench – an ignition wrench is ideal. Be careful not to disturb or lose the small rubber isolator around each screw. They may or may not come out with the screw – mine did not. Once these two screws are out, gently push on the back side of the speedo to move it slightly rearward, just far enough to get your fingers around the edge of the gauge's face to lift it out. You don't want to push it too far rearward so that the speedo falls out. The face and needle are fragile and can get damaged.
The entire removal operation was surprisingly easy and very straightforward. It took less than 10 minutes from start to finish, without any undo contortions, effort or surprises. For some folks, it may help to remove the driver's seat to allow a more comfortable lying down position, flat on the floor, when reaching up behind the dash to access the cable connection and the two ¼" hex head screws. I'm 75 yrs old and in reasonable shape and didn't remove the driver's seat. I kneeled on a cushion on the garage floor and leaned in to stick my head a bit under the dash.
This would be a good time to check/replace any missing or failed turn signal or indicator lightbulbs that are now exposed by having removed the lens cover. Check the lightbulbs under fuel gauge/tach lens cover, too.
For safety, before starting, disconnect a battery cable. Next, remove the four Phillips head screws holding the speedo's lens cover to the dash (two at the top of the lens cover and two below the bottom of the lens cover, where the wiper switch is located). Then, to disconnect the speedo cable, reach your hand behind the dash from underneath -- the speedo cable is inserted into the back of the speedo and a small circular spring clip around the cable's end fitting holds it in place. Depress the spring clip with your thumb and pull the cable out of the speedo. Next, reach up under the dash and remove the two ¼" hex head screws, one on either side of the mechanism, that hold the speedo to the gauge cluster. I suggest using a very small box end wrench – an ignition wrench is ideal. Be careful not to disturb or lose the small rubber isolator around each screw. They may or may not come out with the screw – mine did not. Once these two screws are out, gently push on the back side of the speedo to move it slightly rearward, just far enough to get your fingers around the edge of the gauge's face to lift it out. You don't want to push it too far rearward so that the speedo falls out. The face and needle are fragile and can get damaged.
The entire removal operation was surprisingly easy and very straightforward. It took less than 10 minutes from start to finish, without any undo contortions, effort or surprises. For some folks, it may help to remove the driver's seat to allow a more comfortable lying down position, flat on the floor, when reaching up behind the dash to access the cable connection and the two ¼" hex head screws. I'm 75 yrs old and in reasonable shape and didn't remove the driver's seat. I kneeled on a cushion on the garage floor and leaned in to stick my head a bit under the dash.
This would be a good time to check/replace any missing or failed turn signal or indicator lightbulbs that are now exposed by having removed the lens cover. Check the lightbulbs under fuel gauge/tach lens cover, too.
#92
General Discussion / Re: 1968 Corvette Bronze Z
Last post by x66 714 - October 06, 2026, 03:04:15 PMThere was some discussion on FB about it. He considers it a unicorn. I ask him why other than it has it's born with drivetrain. He never did reply back. It has 3.73 rear. That's probably why the drivetrain is original.....Joe
#93
General Discussion / 1968 Corvette Bronze Z
Last post by dannystarr - October 06, 2026, 02:51:53 PMLooks to be a nice car. Do we like that front pad stamp? No Trans or rear axle stamps shown.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/128117528905?_skw=1968+Camaro+Z%2F28&itmmeta=01M49BN1ZNTXXWXKWC4PYJVN6Y&hash=item1dd4665949:g:9MkAAeSwG2VqxGxn&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBxHqU1XCczPGBPXbadj2OXynvYaZ4wKxYW4iFqCOfRlFSOt1rNCom5IZCfns5j7tz47Lt9GBx9AL2BpF0iHUgPGsQEYi7hVrc8MfHWXf3iDtnbKNbNcPoZ3YlJ1hvXitczSb4a%2FRjgP%2FSj%2BG75OWogg7robSxSygXM2A7SMWEoVkRc76RmwOjz%2FbU5FpqZi63j9xo5peBqSSOw1g8JfeGdHIM54fc%2FTCkOyF6r0OCuAaXgMQUJCucLz47HcNwI7XQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Kg1KuiaA
https://www.ebay.com/itm/128117528905?_skw=1968+Camaro+Z%2F28&itmmeta=01M49BN1ZNTXXWXKWC4PYJVN6Y&hash=item1dd4665949:g:9MkAAeSwG2VqxGxn&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBxHqU1XCczPGBPXbadj2OXynvYaZ4wKxYW4iFqCOfRlFSOt1rNCom5IZCfns5j7tz47Lt9GBx9AL2BpF0iHUgPGsQEYi7hVrc8MfHWXf3iDtnbKNbNcPoZ3YlJ1hvXitczSb4a%2FRjgP%2FSj%2BG75OWogg7robSxSygXM2A7SMWEoVkRc76RmwOjz%2FbU5FpqZi63j9xo5peBqSSOw1g8JfeGdHIM54fc%2FTCkOyF6r0OCuAaXgMQUJCucLz47HcNwI7XQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Kg1KuiaA
#94
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Looking to validate a engi...
Last post by x66 714 - October 06, 2026, 02:36:39 PMQuote from: FRANKTHECRANK on October 06, 2026, 01:51:29 PMWhy do those two stampings and the engine pad surfaces look so different if they are next to each other on the same engine pad?
They're not on the same surface. The engine assm plant/date are on the top by the RH cyl head. The other is stamped into the raw casting down by the oil filter....Joe
#95
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Looking to validate a engi...
Last post by FRANKTHECRANK - October 06, 2026, 01:51:29 PMWhy do those two stampings and the engine pad surfaces look so different if they are next to each other on the same engine pad?
#96
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Trasnmission Stamp identit...
Last post by FRANKTHECRANK - October 06, 2026, 01:48:13 PMYes, the partial VIN was stamped on the trans.
#97
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Cowl Tag Question...
Last post by FRANKTHECRANK - October 06, 2026, 01:47:14 PMNot sure if that's original or reproduction, (rivets seem original looking),...but what is obvious is that someone went to town sanding the stampings to make them show better,...while almost ruining the tag in the process.
#98
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Number of C08 vinyl top 69...
Last post by x66 714 - October 06, 2026, 01:06:38 PMAccording to CRG there were 225,512 1969 Camaro coupes built for 1969 model year. 100,602 vinyl tops were ordered that year. There would be no way to determine how many were on Z/28s, but in the 60s, vinyl tops were quite popular as you can see by the numbers. 190,971 of the 225,512 were V8 coupes....Joe
#99
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Hidden cowl vent stamp 69 ...
Last post by bcmiller - October 06, 2026, 12:15:58 PMIf you want to clearly see the stamping, you are going to have to CAREFULLY use some paint remover in just the area with the stamping. You might get by using lacquer thinner on a rag for that area. It will take some time.
Just be super careful to not cause any damage to paint in any other area.
Just be super careful to not cause any damage to paint in any other area.
#100
Decoding/Numbers / Cowl Tag Question...
Last post by Smartin72! - October 06, 2026, 12:10:49 PMHey all, this is the cowl tag on my 69 Z28. I have been looking at lots of photos of other cowl tags and some look similiar to this, but some seem to have more of the "stamped" look.... I know these can be re-produced, so curious if anyone can help me determine whether this is real or re-produced? All of the codes on the trim tag align with the VIN and options, but I know there are ways to tell if it's been added after the fact