Messages

Hello all, I have a 67 RS with a 396, set up with a HEI 1 wire system. Internal voltage regulator alternator. I have never had any issues with it before, now it has developed an electric draw. Its a slow steady voltage draw, but so slow and slight its almost unnoticeable. However when you turn the headlights on the battery voltage goes into a heavy draw and the headlights go dim and start flashing causing the relays to click. I replaced the Horn Relay, headlight switch, high beam switch and the wiper switch. I disconnected the headlight doors to see if the draw was from there, it is not.
This occurs whether the car is running or not. If the car is running with out the headlights on, the battery will drawn down in about 15-20 minutes.
I have checked all the grounds I can find. I have even been touching all the metal I can to see if soothing shocks me LOL.
Does the alternator have something inside of it that could go bad and cause a constant draw or that could cause my symptoms ?
I am really at loss here.
I am open to all suggestions.

OK the weirdest thing. I turned on the wipers, they work slow and fast. But when i turn them off they go back into high speed and won't go off unless i disconnect the power. I changed the switch in the dash already. When I jump it under the hood to test the motor it does the same thing. Thoughts? short in the motor ? re ground the motor ?
Thanks in advance.
Mike

I will get some extra seal and fill the gaps in the shroud. I am going to try and retard the timing a bit also.

Hello all. I have a 67. It has a 1968 BB 396 bored 30 over. I am running a Q-jet which works fine. I redid the engine bay a few years ago in anticipation of installing AC I bought all the right tid-bits including a radiator that was suppose to be for an air car. Clutch fan (its good) Like I said The car was originally an air car so I decided to install Vintage Air Unit last week.
Now I have cooling issues.
With out the A/C on it runs the usual between 180-190. As soon as you turn the A/C on the temp starts to climb, it has gotten as far as 210 so far. When it gets to about 205 or so the engine starts to ping on acceleration. When you turn the A/C off and turn the heat on the temp goes back to normal with out the ping.
When you stop the car the radiator spits water out (I do not have a overflow catch).
I have been asked to check my fan clutch , water level for air pockets, Idle too low (which wouldn't matter at travel speeds ).
Suggestions have been retard the timing, get a aluminum radiator, electric fan.
I just cant believe that a factory setup could not handle this little unit.
I am open to other suggestions and ideas.
Thanks in advance for putting in your 2cents
Mike

Thanks Ed, I will call him Monday.

Hi Bryon, Yes I looked at the thread. Good information, the drive gear I have is the "small" one used on the higher tooth driven gears 3:70 and up. I need a Brown driven gear to make the speedo work correctly which needs a 'Large" drive gear. That is why I need an adapter. Unless I want to drop the transmission. I am going from a 3:73 to a 3:08, most of the adapters are designed to work the opposite direction I want it to go. So I just might have to have one made?

The Steel Drive Gear is a 1:76 Small, that is why the 22 tooth Green worked with it. When I put the Brown gear in, it chewed it up in about 300 miles. I knew it was going bad because of Speedo bounce. Finally it stopped working. I called Bruce at Manchester Muncies, he is always very helpful. He stated that if I had a 22 tooth grey I would be able to just swap to the Brown. The color of the 22 tooth is a give-away as to what is in there. The 1:76 drive gear works with 22 tooth green and usually used with 3:55 gear and up. He suggests rather then drop the transmission to get an external reducer (or increaser ). Not worth dropping a perfectly working trans and tearing it apart to change a speedo drive gear. So I need to figure how much it is off and find the right "adjuster". The speedo is about 10 mph or so off using a GPS speedo app on my phone against the speedo. I will have friend ride with me so we can take an exact reading rather then me drive, watch the speedo and gps at the same time. Thank you everyone for your experiences, opinions and suggestions.

On a side note, Kelley, I retired after 35 years of Law Enforcement. The "Certified Speedometer" was just as accurate as a normal speedo. It just means they allegedly double checked them at the factory to make sure they were accurate. I think it was just a scam to charge more If the weren't they still sent them out, I drove a car ( Gran Fury) that was always about 5mph off back in the 80's. Our fleet manager didn't seem to care. Florida requires that the speedo in a police car be certified every 6 months if you use it to enforce speed. So if your speedo was off by 5mph you knew it and had a certificate, to show that you knew what the correction was to enforce accordingly. Now with the development of electric speedo's they are always pretty much accurate. Police package cars sometimes still say certified. However Fords Expedition and large trucks that are used in LEO applications are Fleet not Police and do not have certified written on the speedo. That is another reason the speedo has to be checked every six months.

Does Jody's Transmissions have a webs site please? However I do not want a speedo gear, I need an adapter that will make my speedo right. Changing the speedo gear will not help unless I drop the transmission tear it apart and change the internal gear. Which I am trying to avoid. Thank you both for the information!

Hi all, I have recently changed the rear axle configuration from a 3:73 to a more drivable 3:08. The speedometer gear that is in there now is a green 22 tooth. What I need is a 18 tooth Brown how ever with out taking the Muncie (M20) apart to change the drive gear it will just eat up the Brown gear. My transmission guy recommended a external gear reducer to make the speedo read true. Question is where do I get one and what "reduction" do I need? I saw one on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-90-Degree-Gear-Speedometer-Reducer-Ratio-Adapter-1-0-950-6479236-w-bullet-/122203171020?hash=item1c73e068cc:g:MVAAAOSwcLxYFH3L&vxp=mtr
But I have no idea if it will work or not.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Mike

Excellent! 

Thank you!

I just did some work under the hood and when I hooked everything back up I had no power to the Horn, Fuel Gauge and the Acc that I use for my after market radio. The first thing I checked was the fuse. When I found there is no power to the fuse marked "Gauges". I tried to track it down with no luck. Can anybody give me any suggestions on where under the hood I should be looking. Let me make note that the original charging system had been converted to a single wire system a long time ago, and there is an HEI ignition. There was never any issues in the past. I am afraid that I may have messed with a wire unintentionally.
Thanks
Mike

The AIM does not tell you what size bolts to use. I have a Big Block and I am trying to mount the Pwr Steering pump bracket. Yes it shows you how and where but not bolt sizes, those are coded with a part number. I am trying to find out the bolt sizes and none of the mounting kits list the sizes of the bolts. Just part numbers and the letter code on the bolt. I would rather go to Ace and buy the good bolts then some re-pop dealer who wants $25 for a set of fakes or NOS which I don't need because its not a concours vehicle.

PAACECARJEFF also has an ebay store to contact him through.

Classic industries sells them. Depending on if its  BB or SB, it should be the same hose for 67 and 68.