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My ignition switch (repro) key is different than my door locks. I would like to keep my original door locks, so I was wondering if it is possible for a locksmith to recode them using just the ignition key.

You sound like you are a kid in a candy store and having a blast!

Are you playing your drums in the band?

I will have to take your word on the line-up. A liitle before my time :-)

Enjoy!

Someone on the Chevy Hi Performance forum had a similar problem in January. Post a reply and see if they fixed it:

http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/6526402/general-chevy-technical-discussion/chevy-zz-502-problems/index.html

From the Post:
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Does anyone know the correct spark plug for the Crate ZZ502/502 we are trying to get an intital start up to set timing and keep fouling plugs. It has a Vertex Distributor, Taylor solid core plug wires, Holley 850 Street Avenger w/elec choke. We are currently using AC Delco Rapidfire #4 plugs and fuel pressure runs at 6.5. We have problems with loading up quick and wet fouling plugs.

Reply:
during this wetting startup did you block the choke open?? it is usually needed to block things open till you get everything ajusted....
if the choke does not pull off of its fully closed position it will wet the plugs...
normaly the choke will pull open about 3/16 of an inch at the top and it will be up on fast idle step 2 or so....
i personally don't know what the pick up coil and reluctor look like in a vertex dizzy.. but on every other dizzy i  set the crank to the initial timing i want.. and then line up the reluctor and pick up coil  tips... then i lock the dizzy down.. it gets me within a few degrees for startup... so there is no high voltage dizzy twisting to get it to run.....   

Since you were looking for "any and all" suggestions... Any chance that beast of an engine needs to be put under load? Maybe the set-up is simply not meant to idle or simply go in/out of the garage. Could a hotter plug and different mixture settings be a temporary fix untill you get it on the road?

Whoa, wait a minute! That was a quote from the article.

Never had a Ford... Never will 

If gov't bailout money is used, I wonder if there will be pressure to can the Camaro altogether.

http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/cars-trucks/daily-news/081114-Camaro-Challenger-Convertibles-Dead/

If you've always dreamed of buying a drop-top muscle car, hit your Ford dealer now.  While a stable of retro-styled muscle coupes have excited the automotive world for the last year, the ongoing financial crisis seems to have killed the convertible versions that were supposed to provide a second act.

Motor Trend reports, "Chrysler will not offer a Dodge Challenger convertible. The car is "dead as a doornail," a source says. And the 2010 Chevrolet Camaro convertible planned for midyear 2009 is on hold."  That leaves the Mustang as the only convertible muscle car - and it's not going anywhere.  The V6 powered pony car has "been a strong seller in the Ford lineup."

Jalopnik reports that the Challenger platform was "unbelievably, not originally engineered to lose its top. So engineering a model capable of retaining its rigidity is, due to the financiapocalypse, now considered wayyy to expensive."  As for the Camaro, "Bankruptcy-imminent GM simply can't afford" to build the car "even though plans for it were built in from the beginning."

Or perhaps it was cancelled for another reason entirely. Autoblog suggests, "If the Federal bailout goes through, it's safe to assume that legislators and the public would have hard time seeing our tax dollars being used to sell a niche vehicle."

Research the best muscle cars with U.S. News' car rankings and reviews.

I came across a really nice private collection that you may find interesting. Apparently, he opens up the collection to charity events a couple times a year. It is certainly lacks Camaros, but it is a pretty serious lineup to say the least. The decor is not too shabby either. Right in my backyard! Who knew...

There is a charity event and car show October 11th. Maybe he'll make me an offer to fill the void :-)

Website: http://www.carsofdreams.com

Slideshow: http://www.carsofdreams.com/museum/index.html

I have reviewed John and Duke's valve adjustment procedure, and it looks pretty straight forward. However, I am not sure if the cam is a 30-30 / original. I assume I should NOT use this procedure if I do not know the cam specs.  Is there a "generic" lash adjustment/clearance that I should use? Thoughts?

If the running method is my only or best choice, can the experts chime in and let me know what to listen for? Is it the same overall procedure as hydraulic valve adjustment?

Thanks.

I also noticed that he modified the listing to state that there was a 327 in the car, and the 302 was apart. I thought the original listing said it was in the car (unless I missed it on the first read).

Your engine on Ebay (installed in a another car)

Engine pad is stamped:  18N385819 VI229MO
Block casting number:  3914678
Block casting date:  casting date K137
Seller id:  69rs-z28
Seller location:  Mobile, AL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1968-Camaro-Z-28-Original-Unrestored_W0QQitemZ280240082060QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280240082060

Kevin, thank you for the insight. It must have been a blast and I am very jealous! I am glad someone from here was able to be involved...

Anyway, did they touch on a release/production schedule? I have read many different dates.

Thanks John.

I just put in new Polygraphite bushings, ball joints, tierods, Hotchkis performance springs, and a larger sway bar. Off to the alignment shop I go...

I was wondering if I could get some feedback on the Alignment specs I should provide the shop. Currently, there are Polyglas bias tires on there (which may be changed at some point).

I am assuming I should give them the factory specs provided in the 69 Factory Service manual. Is there a better set of specs that I should use?

Thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks Gary. They are a new pair (Hotchkis). I am probably going to leave it alone. I know it is not the proper place to measure ride height, but I am using the floor to the top of the wheel opening since it is easy to make the comparison. One side is between 1/2" - 3/4" off.

They are out of the car now (all new front suspension bushings and parts going in), but when I put them back, I will pay attention to the seating. Who knows... maybe it will level off a bit.

Visually, you can't notice the difference. My friend's Camaro has a similar discrepency. Maybe this is normal?

Thoughts?

Thanks for the reference.