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Well the guy reported me for selling counterfeit items.  And even though he has called me for advice in the past would not accept a call from me for an explanation.

Thank you Byron.  It is exactly the same.  I would never have a need to re-stamp a silly regulator, I have 500 of these and they take up a lot of space. lol


Jeff

I just received a note from a customer that his regulator is a re-stamp.

Now I have had these in my collection for 20 years when I was out pulling parts.

The numbers are not lined up perfectly, but I have seen this over and over and is not uncommon.
Please let me know what your opinion is as I have been restoring these for decades, and would never do that.

The 8B is off... original or fake?

That's one of those fake body tags from TT.com made in the early 2000"s - not even close

That Life of the tread warantee reminds me of this lady... lol

https://www.facebook.com/reel/2163042557398521

My 04A LOS 67 Pace car does not have clips.

Black - Low Gloss

Looks good.  Remember, the lamp is always mounted on the same side as the dipstick...

one more

Here are pictures of the 1969 Underhood lamp

here are pictures for the 1967 and 1968 underhood lamp.

the actual pumps from those years and different models were mostly the same. if one was needed for a different application or model, it could have been reconfigured and the new part number was stamped. Happened pretty often with many of the different components. Probably the squirter nozzle was changed, so the entire unit would have had to be re stamped.

I generally don't have a rodent problem anymore....  lol

The clips certainly were a challenge for me back in 2018. They are still holding great with never an issue.
Here was the thread back then that visited many solutions.  --->   http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=16256.msg155879#msg155879

Install the Booster assembly first.
Go under the dash, and turn the push rod till the rod puts the clevis in the correct position for the pin to go through..
Tighten the nut so the clevis does not move.

The pedal should be high enough to push against the brake light switch.
Install your clevis pin, and use the special locking wedge retainer thingy.  You really don't want that part to come undone - EVER.
If needed you can adjust the light switch till you have your personal desired activation height..

Now with MC loosely in place - install the brake lines to the MC.  I like to have the lines in place before I bolt down the master cylinder. - just seems easier
Bleed the lines. Start the car check break pedal function.  Make sure your brake lights come on when you press the pedal, and make sure that your pedal does not hit the floor.  Check fluid level, and look for leaks.    Piece of cake....