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easy removal.  15 minutes tops.

1) un-clip the booster rod from the pedal bracket.
2) remove the 2 master cylinder nuts and push the assembly forward- (no need to loosen the lines)
3) remove the 4 nuts with a longish 9/16" closed end wrench.  (all done from above)
4) pull the booster. 

Piece of cake....

I've had my Mohawk 2 post lift for over 15 years.  With an 8 ft. garage ceiling, the wife's car can still fit between the hanging down wheels.
A 4 post would never allow that. - - No, I can't stand completely upright underneath, so I use a reclining office chair - works just fine. 

What kind of adhesive would you recommend for the plain paper back, Jeff?


Mike

Just drizzle a little contact cement from home depot. It is yellowish. 

My trunk labels are EXACTLY duplicated  from a perfect original that I had saved for 30 years.
And yes, I can provide them either way - sticky back or plain paper.

After they age a bit, they are indistinguishable from the originals.
I get $7.35 on ebay, or $6 at www.pacecarjeff.com, but  If that is the only thing you need - ebay is cheaper cause of free freight.
Remember, I offer a discount on everything for my fellow CRG members and NCRS Members. so just ask...
every single label should have the date on it - if not it is an incorrect reproduction.

thanks, Jeff

We got some of the local 67's together this weekend.
67 IPCs engine options here are: L48, L35, L78  We let the SS350 hardtop participate too.  We like him..  lol
It was quite a traffic jam this afternoon.... 

really nice car. nice pictures. thanks for sharing. 

Ok, I tried all the other recommendations, not all would hold securely.  Some popped out over night.
Some seem to hold, but I really don't trust them.

I think I found the definitive solution...
I took a 1/16" vacuum port cap and pushed it over the clip, went most of the way down, but left a little on top.
They must be pushed in forcefully, but these are in FOR GOOD.  Pretty sure I would have to break them to get them out.
These are not going anywhere EVER....   

Off to my shop today to grab some more originals.  Something that should be so easy...  lol

Many of them worked just right - but still have 4 or 5 problem holes.  Even the flat top clips won't stay in place. 

Gonna try this right now.  Thank you...  edit: Mike S, this seems to be working very nicely...   

oh... FYI,  I did not have any metric tools, so I used a 1-3/8"  seemed to also work just as well...   lol 

Only 2 held.  This is very frustrating to say the least.
My polite way of saying.... lol   

I did cut some of the retainer with an exacto knife, made the flairs a little bigger. That seems to be holding at least the first one did. thanks for the help I probably should have tried that right away.

What did you do about the clips not holding?  I just got my REM pad - -the original clips wound not hold.
this new pad is thicker than the one i got from them 20 years ago. 
Back then the clips were a challenge, but eventually got them all to hold.

I even went and bought a set of the repro CHQ clips, that are advertised as being longer, but they work worse then the originals.  won't grab for even a minute.  For now I have the fat plain ones on - hoping that over time i can switch them one at a time as the pad settles into place.
The color seems a little greener then I remember, but that doesn't bother me.
Any other ideas or recommendations?  anyone modify their original clips in any way?  Duct tape?  lol
thanks.....  J

No Luck
At one point I was gonna restore all of the boosters and send them on their way.  so....,
Unfortunately I pulled all the check valves, pipes, and hoses - put them in a separate bin.  I never took the manifold vacuum ports either. 

Sold off 100's of the various check valves over the years, did not leave the paper tags on them.   
Still have a ton - -found 5 or 6 of the #2 right on top.

I have the #1 on my 69 Z11 - it came like that 20 years ago on the original booster.
That's kinda why I don't trust survivor cars so much - If the new owner believed (wrongly) - that his check valve or other part was not the one
everyone expected to see, he would just change it to the desired flavor at the time.

Like the dipsticks, oil plugs, and many other items - the believed "typical norm" seems to change from time to time - even though all versions are technically correct.

I did take 1000s of pictures in the yards. We traveled to many remote areas, most of the pics are buddies bent over picking, goofing off, or HUGE fields of cars. Lots of pics of really rare cars that just weren't salvageable (at the time) OMG  lol ?

So I guess I can't offer any forensic evidence at this time.

But I can tell you that I have seen, and provided parts for -- many Nationally Certified Survivor cars where parts had been changed in the past. - I will never tell..  lol

Which is exactly what i am saying. Both plants produced other models along side the Camaros.
Even a plant as small as St. Louis which only produced 1 model -- the Corvette. has variations of many items (including check valves)

To say or even believe that every 1st Gen Camaro only used one style check valve is really inconceivable.
But I know what I have seen, I am gonna check my boosters when I have time, I have 20 or so 9204s and 3 or 4 8515s hidden somewhere around the shop. They are all unrestored in "as found" condition - - don't remember if I left the valves and hoses in them or not.

I have a huge bin full of hoses tons of valves attached there - - will look for paper tags to ID them. 
been a little cooler here lately, was too hot up on my 2nd floor to go digging.