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| | |-+  Reproduction Endura Bumpers are horrible
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Author Topic: Reproduction Endura Bumpers are horrible  (Read 6010 times)
z28z11
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« Reply #30 on: December 03, 2012, 08:59:46 AM »

Chris/crobjones2 - 

I ran across this guy and posted his contact info earlier in the thread - I have my original to send to him at some point (when I can afford it !) - I could probably repair it, but this gentleman seems to have a good handle on how to fix them correctly:

"I wish had started reading posts at CRG years ago - it really goads me into looking for solutions that I have ignored for years upon years. Anyone ever use John @ www.endurabumper.com ? He has some really nice examples of his work on the site, and gave me a rough estimate of repairing my original (jack damaged) Endura bumper for my X77 - price starts around $375.00.
I had some delusions about being able to repair my own for years, even purchasing the aforementioned GM repair kit attached, but I would rather hand this over to a more experienced shop, hopefully like John's. If someone has past experience with this man, please post it."

Regards,
Steve

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1968 Z28 BRG/W
1969 Z28 X77 LeMans/W
1969 X66 L78 Cortez/BVT
1969 Z11 L48
z28z11
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« Reply #31 on: December 03, 2012, 09:11:16 AM »

I'd say your damage probably looks similar to this - I call this jack damage, others might call it a not-well-thought-out-design-flaw. This was the damage on the bumper when I bought the car in '73 - I never found a solution for it (and really didn't worry about it) until later years - my spare sold, so now I'm in the same hunt for a fix that several people are. If you do use the Endura guy, post your results if you don't mind -

Regards,
Steve
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1968 Z28 BRG/W
1969 Z28 X77 LeMans/W
1969 X66 L78 Cortez/BVT
1969 Z11 L48
69Z28-RS
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« Reply #32 on: December 03, 2012, 10:33:32 AM »

Sure appears to be a 'poor design' to me.... but of course, this is looking back after many years, so lots of design fail that test...
PS.  I always thought if I liked the look of a 'painted bumper', I'd think about stripping the chrome from a regular bumper, and then painting it body color...   Has anyone else done this?

Gary
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
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tmodel66
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« Reply #33 on: December 03, 2012, 11:42:52 AM »

Lynn where are the numbers located on yours?  Mine are powder coated and that might have the numbers filled in. Big R and L on top/front though. Also are these brackets causing all the problems with these repop bumpers or are there other issues?
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
Sauron327
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« Reply #34 on: December 03, 2012, 12:32:06 PM »

The only photos left of a pair I had.
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #35 on: December 03, 2012, 12:33:13 PM »

PS.  I always thought if I liked the look of a 'painted bumper', I'd think about stripping the chrome from a regular bumper, and then painting it body color...   Has anyone else done this?

Gary

Gary,

Chip Foose does this all the time.  You can Google images of his cars to check it out.

Paul
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tmodel66
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« Reply #36 on: December 03, 2012, 12:43:49 PM »

Thanks Scott. That's where mine have the big L and R stamped. Maybe mine are service replacements.
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
Sauron327
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« Reply #37 on: December 03, 2012, 12:49:05 PM »

I can't recall if these had L&R on them also. Been a long time since I had them.

Many people paint their bumpers. EDP only bumpers are available but I don't know how well they fit. Stripping the chrome on a core is best, some lightly blast existing chrome and epoxy.
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firstgenaddict
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« Reply #38 on: December 03, 2012, 01:02:50 PM »

The HBC brackets are exactly like the originals however the repro bumper still won't fit correctly...

AS A SIDE NOTE!!!
Flexible repair material needs to be mixed in PRECISE QUANTITIES (I use a scale which measures .00 grams)
I did a little experiment and mixed in ratios other than the recommended 1:1 and only by fractions.

(1.0:1.1) 1.0g base - 1.1g hardener = durometer(hardness/flexibility) feels much higher than at recommended 1:1 (more brittle)
(1.1:1.0) 1.1g base - 1.0g hardener = durometer feels much closer to 1:1 however it seemed to cure out over a period of days vs 24 hours.

YOU CAN NOT EYEBALL THIS and expect to get results which are consistent.  

I use a few hundreths of a gram less hardener than base at most and have had great results.

 
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James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
 
Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
https://picasaweb.google.com/112392262205377424364/1969_Z28_Restoration
Sauron327
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« Reply #39 on: December 03, 2012, 01:27:50 PM »

3M, Lord Fusor and SEM all make auto mixing dispensors. Same auto mixers when using panel adhesive. Many years ago we used the individual tubes when repairing bumper covers.  Follow the directions and there will be no issues.
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firstgenaddict
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« Reply #40 on: December 03, 2012, 02:33:58 PM »

3M, Lord Fusor and SEM all make auto mixing dispensors. Same auto mixers when using panel adhesive. Many years ago we used the individual tubes when repairing bumper covers.  Follow the directions and there will be no issues.

I sold supplies to body shops everywhere down the ohio valley and south east for 3 years and I can say rarely have I found a shop which follows directions 100% of the time Auto dispenser or not. Nor have they done any testing to determine what if any effects their tampering does to the products. It is always that's the way I was taught or it cures out faster when it's damp or etc.
The scientists creating these resins are using precise quantities same should apply for the users.

Maybe I should have said don't mess with the instructions, and follow them to the letter.
I was trying to make the point that tampering with the ratios in flexible materials can produce drastically different results so please take this into consideration when attempting any repairs of this nature.

Now that is a lawyer answer.. I have read way too much law... lol

 
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James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
 
Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
https://picasaweb.google.com/112392262205377424364/1969_Z28_Restoration
Sauron327
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« Reply #41 on: December 03, 2012, 03:08:53 PM »

James, I've been in the autobody and custom paint business for over twenty years. I always follow the TDS. Many hobbiests experiment or don't read the TDS, if they even know what one is. Providing a "lawyerly" or technical answer is exactly what's appropriate in this business. There are many professionals who are very picky about their work and product use, and there are those as you stated that are not.
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lynnbilodeau
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« Reply #42 on: December 03, 2012, 03:16:12 PM »

The holes in the repro brackets don't appear to be in the same position. Hopefully they are close enough.....

I thought about that too Kurt.  I ran long 3/8 bolts through both sets of holes and it looks pretty darn close.  Of course, there is some slop involved.
It is hard to tell because the repop brackets are not exactly the same size.  I figured one could enlarge the holes on the repop brackets if needed.
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ZLP955
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« Reply #43 on: December 05, 2012, 04:16:13 AM »

I use a few hundreths of a gram less hardener than base at most and have had great results.
James,
Could you confirm which product you'd recommend for repairing cracks in an original VE3 bumper? I have had 3M Automix 05887 recommended to me, but noticed a reply on page 1 of this thread that mentioned 05883.
Cheers, Tim
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Tim - New South Wales, Australia
04A VN '69 z/28 69-69 715 ex-E/MP
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