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Author Topic: 68 Z28 starter problem  (Read 3019 times)
fireZ
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« on: February 02, 2009, 08:49:55 PM »

I tried to start my 68 Z today and the starter would not kick in and  turn engine. I pulled the starter and put cables on it and it worked good on the work bench. I put it back in the car turned the key and still just had a humm or buzz from under the hood.Any ideas? Thanks
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1968 Z28 LA Built
LIC # RPO Z28
1968RSZ28
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« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2009, 12:35:14 AM »

Have you load tested the battery?  Are you able to turn the engine over by hand?

Paul
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tom
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« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2009, 06:22:55 AM »

How are the cables?
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fireZ
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« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2009, 08:09:08 AM »

The battery cables are good and I can turn the engine over by hand. This car was fired up 2 months ago and parked.
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1968 Z28 LA Built
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Sauron327
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« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2009, 09:55:15 AM »

Connections: Junction block on radiator support behind firewall. Bussbar on V.R. and H.relay connections. Check all grounds. Check voltage at starter at rest and while keying to "start". What's the drop? 
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fireZ
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« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2009, 09:58:58 AM »

Should I get a 12 volt reading at the starter?
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1968 Z28 LA Built
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Sauron327
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« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2009, 11:52:11 AM »

Best to do a search on "battery to starter voltage drop". You'll get many sites. Too much to list here. One thing: Testing the starter as you did will only tell you if it spins, not how many amps it is drawing. You can still check the connections and voltage at the terminals I stated to eliminate problems in the wiring harness circuit. I'm not an electrical guru, simply forced into diagnostics for same reasons as you.
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fireZ
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« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2009, 11:53:10 AM »

Thanks for the idea I will go at it again tonight
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1968 Z28 LA Built
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JohnZ
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« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2009, 04:45:42 PM »

I tried to start my 68 Z today and the starter would not kick in and  turn engine. I pulled the starter and put cables on it and it worked good on the work bench. I put it back in the car turned the key and still just had a humm or buzz from under the hood.Any ideas? Thanks

The solenoid isn't pulling in - its fork extends the Bendix to the flywheel and engages the high-current contacts inside the solenoid that feed battery voltage to the armature.

Battery cables - condition? Contact areas clean and shiny at both ends of both cables?

Battery - Load test? What voltage do you read across the terminals?
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fireZ
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« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2009, 05:05:22 PM »

Can a solinoid be strong enough on the work bench to operate ok but once on the car to weak to pull into the flywheel?
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1968 Z28 LA Built
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tom
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« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2009, 05:16:40 PM »

More likely the cables are corroded, frayed, loose, or otherwise damaged and not conducting enough power to the starter. Bad cables in the car would have no effect on bench testing the starter.
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Sauron327
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« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2009, 06:08:57 PM »

You've got to begin testing at the battery and proceed from there. And you are bench testing the starter and re-introducing it to an unverified system.
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fireZ
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« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2009, 08:44:19 PM »

I found the problem It was a brand new positive spring ring battery cable. I was playing with the positive and negative cables when my son turned the key and the engine turned over. The problem was a positive cable that was loose inside the spring ring terminal. I was able to wiggle the cable out of the terminal end with ease . Thanks for everyones help.
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1968 Z28 LA Built
LIC # RPO Z28
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