Author Topic: 67 rs pinstripe- z21?  (Read 1002 times)

Mike S

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1912
    • View Profile
Re: 67 rs pinstripe- z21?
« Reply #15 on: October 16, 2017, 02:05:57 AM »
Scott,

  Is it necessary to scuff the urethane clear (using a gray pad) before striping using enamel paint? As much as it sounds like it will provide a good bite, I don't want to risk any possible edge bleeding. Or is it not necessary.

Thanks,
Mike
67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Under restoration

Sauron327

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1069
    • View Profile
Re: 67 rs pinstripe- z21?
« Reply #16 on: October 16, 2017, 11:33:21 AM »
Mike,
I just clean with wax and grease remover and stripe, no scuffing. Look at all the freehand striping done; not possible to scuff prior to doing so and it adheres well. Edge bleeding is caused by not pushing down the tape. Depending on temperature and technique, the amount of reducer needed will vary.

67 nut

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 20
    • View Profile
Re: 67 rs pinstripe- z21?
« Reply #17 on: November 04, 2017, 12:39:02 AM »
Without having to "scuff the clear" to pinstripe, I take it that you're finished upon removing the stencil or when finished free handing.  That's excellent news knowing that three more coats of clear are not needed over the pin striping.

If using a stencil, do you wait until the striping paint is dry (to remove stencil), or do you remove the stencil when the paint is "green"?
Any problems with buffing, without clear over the pinstripe?
Steve  '67 RS convertible, factory a/c, parchment interior

Mike S

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1912
    • View Profile
Re: 67 rs pinstripe- z21?
« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2017, 09:44:55 PM »
Without having to "scuff the clear" to pinstripe, I take it that you're finished upon removing the stencil or when finished free handing.  That's excellent news knowing that three more coats of clear are not needed over the pin striping.

If using a stencil, do you wait until the striping paint is dry (to remove stencil), or do you remove the stencil when the paint is "green"?
Any problems with buffing, without clear over the pinstripe?
Hi Steve,
   When I did my car recently I buffed the panels first then cleaned with a wax and grease (tar) remover. As for dry time....it depends on the surface temp. I painted mine when the temps were in the low 60's and I waited about 10 minutes after the stripe was applied to each section. A section, as I call it, is the rear, door and fender and each gap was cut so as to get a good edge. I applied the stripe along one line then striped along the second line (within the same section) and let it sit before pulling the stencil tape back over itself. Then I would proceed to the next section. At 10 minutes the paint was tacky. Don't let it dry completely or you will get a jagged and raised edge when you remove the tape.
  Also, do not shake the paint can....it WILL leave bubbles and you'll have to wipe it off and let the can sit for a while for the now-foamed paint to smooth in the can (ask me how I know)   ;)
  Otherwise the Finesse Striper tape works excellent and has plenty of stick to raise and readjust the tape line several times prior to paint. And I recommend to buy the longer length 160' roll in case you need to redo a line that you find afterwards doesn't satisfy you because the 42' roll may not be enough for reworks.


Mike
67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Under restoration