67 rs pinstripe- z21?

[mike willett]

I am putting the pinstripe back on my 67 rs. i have the assembly instruction page for the z21 option.   i see that the stripe is 1/16/ space 1/8 and then 3/32.  i see the positioning of the the stripe down from the body lines for the 3 sections. i see the end detail.  I don't see the distance to the front end of the fender if i don't have the nose stripe. and the distance to the back of the quarter- mine says 126.625 which i can't make an sense of.  i am looking for those two dimensions. also the page says drawn on 8-24-66 and on the right side it has the revision record dated 9/8/66. my car was produced on 11/29/66.  is there a revised drawing?

[RAfbody]

I don't have drawings or a measurement but this should be pretty close.

[mike willett]

nice car!  can you take a measurement from the front of the stripe to the front edge of the fender and then the same at the back?  It looks like about 3/4" on both.  thanks Mike

[RAfbody]

I am a few hours from the car so I can't measure it at this time.

[Petes L48]

These are both claimed survivor SS cars, so just shots of the rear.  The gold was a mid-year NOR, Jan-Mar time frame

[Petes L48]

gold NOR I mentioned above

[67 nut]

I believe that the 126.625" is from the datum line (aka: firewall)  As I remember, there is also a datum line reference number for the ending of the front fender stripe.

[67 nut]

Mike,
Were you able to locate a source for the 1/16", 1/8" space, and 3/32" pin striping stencil (all three dimensions in one roll)?  I've searched and can't find anything.  Free handing those stripes or free handing two separate stencils and making them exactly parallel is beyond my abilities.

[maroman]

I believe that the 126.625" is from the datum line (aka: firewall)  As I remember, there is also a datum line reference number for the ending of the front fender stripe.

I think that would be 126 5/8 long.

[67 nut]

Pete's L48  -  beautiful survivors!!
Maroman  - yes, the 126.5/8" would be the length of the stripe.  I should have searched and got my facts correct, rather than trying to remember (which can be vague at best, sometimes).

On page Z21 A1 (in the AIM) the start of the Z21 pinstripe is -48.437 from the firewall, unless you had the SS/RS option, where the start of the Z21 stripe would be -44.125" from the firewall to allow for the bumble bee stripe.  On page UPC 11-13 B8 of the AIM, it shows the fire wall as being reference "0.00" for measurements.  Every time I open the AIM, I learn something new!

[67 nut]

I found pinstriping stencils at Finesse Pinstriping, stencil F22 for our '67 Camaro's.  Stencil F22 has an additional third stripe, but that can easily be omitted during layout.  The F22 stencil has a 1/16" stripe, an 1/8" gap, and a 3/32" stripe, an 1/8"gap, and a 1/16" stripe that isn't needed.  That is very close to the original .060" stripe, .100" gap, and .100" stripe.  Just thought I'd let anyone know who is considering a Z21 stripe in their restoration.

https://www.finessepinstriping.com/

[Sauron327]

The factory used a Beugler striping tool set against a magnetic strip affixed to the body. Often, you can see the wheel marks it leaves. I've been hand striping for decades and Finesse tape works well. I hand pull the ends. You'll have to do the same or carefully razor the center section to make a point. The point was not originally a razor point. One Shot dries slowly, House of Kolor urethane striping paint dries fast. If you wait until one stripe dries before taping the point for the next stripe, you can end up with a faint tapeline. Hand striping or the Beuglar does not leave tape lines when using One Shot or Chromatic and doing both stripes at once.

[67 nut]

Sauron327,

You provide decades worth of experience in your posts.  Thanks for sharing your expertise with novices such as I.

[Mike S]

I found pinstriping stencils at Finesse Pinstriping, stencil F22 for our '67 Camaro's.  Stencil F22 has an additional third stripe, but that can easily be omitted during layout.  The F22 stencil has a 1/16" stripe, an 1/8" gap, and a 3/32" stripe, an 1/8"gap, and a 1/16" stripe that isn't needed.  That is very close to the original .060" stripe, .100" gap, and .100" stripe.  Just thought I'd let anyone know who is considering a Z21 stripe in their restoration.

https://www.finessepinstriping.com/

  The F-6 has the same two stripes + gap but without the third stripe.

Mike

[Sauron327]

You may find a static charge on the car will suck the paint right off the brush. Just kill it by wiping with a clean damp rag, or a good glass cleaner like Sprayway. Finesse striping paint is fine. I just buy One Shot due to convenience. Use the F-6 like Mike said.

[Mike S]

Scott,

  Is it necessary to scuff the urethane clear (using a gray pad) before striping using enamel paint? As much as it sounds like it will provide a good bite, I don't want to risk any possible edge bleeding. Or is it not necessary.

Thanks,
Mike

[Sauron327]

Mike,
I just clean with wax and grease remover and stripe, no scuffing. Look at all the freehand striping done; not possible to scuff prior to doing so and it adheres well. Edge bleeding is caused by not pushing down the tape. Depending on temperature and technique, the amount of reducer needed will vary.

[67 nut]

Without having to "scuff the clear" to pinstripe, I take it that you're finished upon removing the stencil or when finished free handing.  That's excellent news knowing that three more coats of clear are not needed over the pin striping.

If using a stencil, do you wait until the striping paint is dry (to remove stencil), or do you remove the stencil when the paint is "green"?
Any problems with buffing, without clear over the pinstripe?

[Mike S]

Without having to "scuff the clear" to pinstripe, I take it that you're finished upon removing the stencil or when finished free handing.  That's excellent news knowing that three more coats of clear are not needed over the pin striping.

If using a stencil, do you wait until the striping paint is dry (to remove stencil), or do you remove the stencil when the paint is "green"?
Any problems with buffing, without clear over the pinstripe?

Hi Steve,
   When I did my car recently I buffed the panels first then cleaned with a wax and grease (tar) remover. As for dry time....it depends on the surface temp. I painted mine when the temps were in the low 60's and I waited about 10 minutes after the stripe was applied to each section. A section, as I call it, is the rear, door and fender and each gap was cut so as to get a good edge. I applied the stripe along one line then striped along the second line (within the same section) and let it sit before pulling the stencil tape back over itself. Then I would proceed to the next section. At 10 minutes the paint was tacky. Don't let it dry completely or you will get a jagged and raised edge when you remove the tape.
  Also, do not shake the paint can....it WILL leave bubbles and you'll have to wipe it off and let the can sit for a while for the now-foamed paint to smooth in the can (ask me how I know)   
  Otherwise the Finesse Striper tape works excellent and has plenty of stick to raise and readjust the tape line several times prior to paint. And I recommend to buy the longer length 160' roll in case you need to redo a line that you find afterwards doesn't satisfy you because the 42' roll may not be enough for reworks.


Mike