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Author Topic: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow  (Read 17358 times)
dannystarr
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« Reply #105 on: July 19, 2014, 03:32:42 PM »

I was actually going to try to get one of those off to preserve it. I have the "BU" sticker from the back right drum. It would be tough to get the spring label as I can't get my hands in there. It was hell just getting the pictures. I am going to send out the front calipers, and the master to be rebuilt but not restored cosmetically. Reinstall those and maybe a few other things.... Danny
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janobyte
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« Reply #106 on: July 19, 2014, 05:27:33 PM »

I was actually going to try to get one of those off to preserve it. I have the "BU" sticker from the back right drum. It would be tough to get the spring label as I can't get my hands in there. It was hell just getting the pictures. I am going to send out the front calipers, and the master to be rebuilt but not restored cosmetically. Reinstall those and maybe a few other things.... Danny

Lonestar ?  nice people.
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janobyte
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« Reply #107 on: July 19, 2014, 06:54:39 PM »

Danny ,check and see if your pass side tail pipe is welded to the muffler ,curious.--steve.


How are your 3 flex lines ? ( front 2 calipers , 1 rear) I'd shelve the OE's and replace. Cool to say they are "original' but pedal stiffness will suffer if they got soft over the years.  Mic your rotors and measure your drums to see if still in spec---repack your inner/outer front bearings. I'd also change the 90 wt in the rear end (add your additive) and the Munci. My front end is still tight, if yours is ,use a high quality grease ( I like red) and pump the old stuff out. Don't forget the steering gear box.

Shelve the belts (or throw the in your trunk for the shows, good conversation stuff) for Dayco cogs. Hoses also for that matter, or at least check at operating temp if they are collapsing. Rubber fuel line back at the tank.

No fuel leaks at the metering blocks ?  While running spray a little WD40 (not a fan of water) around the base plate and monitor RPM to see if it's sucking any air.

All in all these are very simple cars ,a "little love" will go a long way with them. I understand the survivor thing, but if you plan on driving her ,make sure she's sound.--steve
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ZLP955
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« Reply #108 on: July 19, 2014, 08:00:57 PM »

Danny, as the oil smells of gas, just wondering if the fuel pump diaphragm might have perished - especially if you've fired the car up recently on modern gas - and could be filling the oil pan. There was a recent thread on TC where a finned valve cover shattered due to a buildup of fuel vapor.......
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Tim - New South Wales, Australia
04A VN '69 z/28 69-69 715 ex-E/MP
bcmiller
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« Reply #109 on: July 19, 2014, 09:22:30 PM »

Danny is that a "C "after the P8E29 on the 4 speed? If so wouldn't it be a M-22 trans?

I have been looking at that small c on the Muncies in 68 GM vehicles for about 5-6 years.  It seems to be an inspection mark, but not 100 percent sure on that.

As already mentioned the 3915085 transmission tag is correct for an M21 in 1968 used with 3.55 and lower (but numerically higher) rear axles.  So it is correctly matched with your BU rear.

G1 on your rotors is Detroit Gear and Axle plant, 1st shift.

Some white lithium grease on the shifter is not a problem.

Try to post a picture of the inside of the deck lid in the area right under where that tape is.  I am pretty sure I know why the tape is there. Probably because the emblem was relocated higher up on the deck lid (second set of holes made) so the rear spoiler could be mounted.  Tape kinda helps cover those holes.

I will try to look over all of the pics.  Just quickly went over them for now.

I think I would put on a new fuel pump (but keep the old one).  I agree it may be putting fuel into the crankcase.  

As for oil type and brand, lots of debates on that.  You might consider one of the oils for diesel engines. Use a good Wix or Napa filter.

« Last Edit: July 19, 2014, 09:48:40 PM by bcmiller » Logged

1968 Camaro SS - now 468 BBC, M21, 12 bolt.
Bryon
janobyte
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« Reply #110 on: July 19, 2014, 10:13:52 PM »

NAPA puts their name on Wix--good filters.

Agree totally with replacing the fuel pump and shelving the OE.

Oil....you could send a sample out to Amsoil(there is a kit they send you) and see what it reads. Tells tales of engine wear and what. (Original owner is a regional rep...I still run Lucas LOL !...don't say anything!)  Oil will stink after sitting for how many years in your engine??
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1968 Z28
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« Reply #111 on: July 19, 2014, 10:53:22 PM »

Danny....would it be possible to show a couple of photos of the PCV valve....curious to see, if it is the original, what it looks like.  Thanks in advance.
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Jerry G.

Z28-1968-07C-Norwood
Ermine White, Red Std. Interior
2nd. Owner, 38,000 miles
hotrod68
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« Reply #112 on: July 20, 2014, 12:49:04 AM »

......... can't type             wiping the drool from my chin.........               wow          you must have been born with a horseshoe up your  (cough)  nose!            Seriously, this is what we all dream of discovering and dragging home. Suhweeeeeet.
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
Butternut Yellow    black standard interior
BULLITT65
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« Reply #113 on: July 20, 2014, 02:07:54 AM »




"As for oil type and brand, lots of debates on that.  You might consider one of the oils for diesel engines. "


[/quote]

Actually there are different detergents in the diesel oil like Delo, or the Shell rotella , that are not helpful for a naturally aspirated motor. They do contain a little bit more zinc, but are counter-productive because of the other additives specific for diesel motors. I have researched this some. The previously mentioned Joe Gibbs oil, I think Royal Purple may make a special high zinc oil, and the classic car oil, would be the best for it. I think you can also use the Lucas break in oil, along with just your typical motor oil as Jano stated as well, and be in good shape.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
dannystarr
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« Reply #114 on: July 20, 2014, 03:08:44 AM »

1:10 am right now... Gotta sleep... I will get to all the questions and more pictures Monday, as it is the girlfriends Birthday Sunday... Actually it is Sunday isn't it... Ok some more pictures real quick...
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dannystarr
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« Reply #115 on: July 20, 2014, 03:27:54 AM »

Trunk area, spare, jack etc.  I spent 6 hours detailing the trunk... Danny
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dannystarr
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« Reply #116 on: July 20, 2014, 03:31:47 AM »

more trunk...
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dannystarr
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« Reply #117 on: July 20, 2014, 03:33:12 AM »

more trunk
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dannystarr
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« Reply #118 on: July 20, 2014, 03:35:46 AM »

more trunk...
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BULLITT65
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« Reply #119 on: July 20, 2014, 03:38:01 AM »

After seeing those CLR pics, I would love to see a couple before and after of your car done, it seems like a great candidate for it. I am happy for you and your girlfriend, hope you guys have a good time on Sunday.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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