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Author Topic: Disassembly of brake booster  (Read 982 times)
BillOhio
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« on: January 02, 2014, 11:14:16 PM »

Anyone ever taken a brake booster apart? Didn't find anything with a search. Thought I better ask before I destroy something! Any tricks to it?
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1969 Z28, Burgandy, numbers matching, 12,900 miles
1967 Plymouth GTX Hemi, 4 speed, dana
1961 Chrysler 300G convertible
Azure1969Z/28
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« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2014, 11:28:54 PM »

I can see no reason to try to disassemble the unit yourself. I suggest that you contact a reputable rebuild company (http://www.powerbrakes.com/) and explain the importance of having yours rebuilt and retaining originality. Point out date codes and finish and have it professionally rebuilt. make sure to insure shipping both directions just in case.
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Mike S
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« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2014, 11:55:44 PM »

 Steve at brakeboosters.com also does excellent work.
Have you tried to secure the booster in a work bench vise and attach the master cylinder to the front and using that as a base and leverage, twist it open?

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
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BillOhio
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« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2014, 10:04:18 AM »

Already had it rebuilt and plated and disgusted with what happened. Friends seen it and wondered if it was done with Eastwood paint.
I have it in vice and going to see what happens.
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1969 Z28, Burgandy, numbers matching, 12,900 miles
1967 Plymouth GTX Hemi, 4 speed, dana
1961 Chrysler 300G convertible
cook_dw
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« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2014, 01:28:15 PM »

Like Mike S mentioned.  Secure the base were it would bolt to the firewall into a bench vise and I use a long prybar between the 2 master cylinder studs and twist the halves apart.  All that is inside is a diaphragm, rubber bladder, rod (& E clip if memory severes) and spring.  Just make sure to mark the halves before pulling apart or you could get it clocked slightly off on reassembly.

You also might have to use a little persuasion with a hammer to separating the halves.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
rsr
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« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2014, 08:00:53 PM »

If it works fine now and you only want it replated follow Darrells directions plus take pics before you seperate the 2 halves.It will be a simple task for most anyone.I use 2 adjustable wrenchs and a rubber hammer plus I bolt a old master cylinder to the booster and put the MC in the vise.Finding a good plating company might be harder! Good luck.
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2014, 09:43:44 PM »

Already had it rebuilt and plated and disgusted with what happened. Friends seen it and wondered if it was done with Eastwood paint.
I have it in vice and going to see what happens.
I have had Steve restore 2 brake boosters for me and they both are great. I did look at one recently that was restored but not sure who and the finish was very dull and the bottom half is pitted. Nice looking restoration otherwise but amazing how some things jump out at ya.
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Chick
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2014, 11:28:26 PM »

Already had it rebuilt and plated and disgusted with what happened. Friends seen it and wondered if it was done with Eastwood paint.
I have it in vice and going to see what happens.
Who did that for you bill?
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
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Marty
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« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2014, 11:26:32 PM »

The Chassis Overhaul Manual covers the overhaul of the brake booster and has diagrams of the parts. Martin
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Martin Foltz
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BULLITT65
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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2014, 11:53:14 PM »

There is a place in san jose that rebuilds master cylinders, proportioning valves, and boosters. I stopped by there shop to get a MC done for one of my other cars, and they are rebuilding the boosters in about 60 seconds. Neat to have a place like that where you can see what they do with your own eyes.
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