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Author Topic: Floor pans  (Read 957 times)
GI JOE
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« on: December 06, 2012, 06:07:31 AM »

Anyone have experience with who has the best full after market floor pan? 

I was looking at Steve's Camaro's Floor pan made by Dyna-core and it has the brackets and appears to look correct...

www.shop.stevescamaroparts.com/67-69-Complete-one-piece-floor-pan-assembly-020765.htm

Matts has this one:

http://www.mattsclassicbowties.com/contents/en-us/d45.html

any advice anyone can provide is as always much appreciated by this old guy...LOL
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SFC GI JOE - Airborne Paratrooper
68- L-78, M22, BV
69- L-78, M22, BV, Conv
Stingr69
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« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2012, 10:42:09 AM »

My Advice: Keep as much original metal as possible and patch the floor holes where even you can.  It just works out better that way.  Stronger and keeps its shape better that way. JMO.

-Mark.
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GTMeach
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« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2012, 11:10:00 AM »

GI JOE, there are 2 different full floor pans available. But companys claim there is only one. The maker will send either style at ramdom. 67 and 68 use different pans. There's lots of little differences but the main one concerns the transmission tunnel. 67's had a lower profile tunnel in the rear, under the seat. a 68/69 floor pan will work, but you'll have to fabricte your rear axle pinion snubber bracket to make it fit. It's a pain and I was upset when I found the differences but it was too late for my 67..Most repro pans shipped are of the 68/69 variety..Unfortunitly, you wont know which one youre getting until it's shipped to you. The best thing to do is to buy it locally so you can make sure it fits your application.

Here's how to tell a 67 from a 68/69 floorpan: Look at the flange at the rearmost part of the pan. (This is the flange that welds to the trunkpan) if this flange goes directly from lerft side to right side without any interruption from the driveline tunnel, it's a 67. If the tunnel seperates the flande in two, it's a 68/69
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GI JOE
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« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2012, 03:13:59 PM »

thanks for the advice guys ... I am really trying to save the floor but when I add up all the issues it may be better to replace it.  I too was thinking of going to a local supplier (for time and S&H savings) as well...  I will go there to see it prior to purchasing now that you have made me aware of these differences... thanks guys it means a lot to have good car buddies helping out   Wink

J:OE
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SFC GI JOE - Airborne Paratrooper
68- L-78, M22, BV
69- L-78, M22, BV, Conv
GI JOE
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« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2013, 06:23:33 PM »

Stingr69
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Re: Floor pans
Reply #1 on: December 06, 2012, 10:42:09 AM
   Reply with quote
My Advice: Keep as much original metal as possible and patch the floor holes where even you can.  It just works out better that way.  Stronger and keeps its shape better that way. JMO.

-Mark.

Mark, I took your advice and only replaced what had to be.. Thank you... GI Joe, Airborne!


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SFC GI JOE - Airborne Paratrooper
68- L-78, M22, BV
69- L-78, M22, BV, Conv
Mike S
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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2013, 06:31:13 PM »

 Hi Joe,

  Your work looks exactly how I did the rear boards behind the seats in the early 80's on the convertible though there were no floor reproductions yet so I used a clean parts car for the metal.
Knowing the seams would be visible on the outside I used a step-flange on the edges and mig welded the sections together and finished off using lead to fill in the gap. Viewing from the outside doesn't look it was replaced and on the inside the seam sealer works great at covering the welds.

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Restored
GI JOE
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« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2013, 07:35:29 PM »

Mike , You are a wise man... that was my intent... hopefully she'll come together as a very nice Camaro... JOe
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SFC GI JOE - Airborne Paratrooper
68- L-78, M22, BV
69- L-78, M22, BV, Conv
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