Messages

16

Restoration / Re: Good time to inspect / repair ??? when the entire drive train is out

« on: August 02, 2015, 10:31:55 PM »

Thanks Gents. I have the subframe bushings on the list but think Ill leave it at that. Exhaust flange studs were in rough shape so needed replacing - no hope of spinning the old ones out even with heat as there was < 50% of material left where the stud met the flange......that turned into a drill and tap excercise x6.
 3/16 pilot followed by 5/16 followed by 3/8-16 tap incase anyone is looking for something to do for 4 HOURS.

17

Restoration / Re: 1967 Tranmission cross member orientation

« on: August 02, 2015, 02:55:30 AM »

Thanks man. Knew someone had a quick answer to that.

18

Restoration / Good time to inspect / repair ??? when the entire drive train is out

« on: August 02, 2015, 02:50:51 AM »

I have the entire drive train out of my '67 L30/M20 and thought I'd get a few comments on what I should look to repair/replace while I have lots of room to work. Car is getting a new clutch (all associated parts like flywheel, bell housing, linkage, Saginaw, Hurst,  etc. rehabbed) I also installed new manifold flange studs. What else? Oil pan gasket? - Do I need go thru jacking the engine up to remove the pan?  Rear main is not leaking at all. Thoughts? Thanks.

19

Restoration / 1967 Tranmission cross member orientation

« on: August 02, 2015, 02:26:14 AM »

So in my haste to remove the transmission cross member from my '67 (4 speed) - I failed to notice which side is forward (or aft?)
There's a single hole in the center section near the 2 main mounting holes - and also 2 smaller ones on one  side and a single directly across from those on the other side. Curious what these are for and what direction should the cross member be in for reinstallation? Thanks.

20

Restoration / '67 L30 Air Cleaner

« on: February 28, 2015, 04:14:44 PM »

Q: Air cleaner paint color and where it should be applied?  '67 L30 LOS car w/A.I.R.
Just finished stripping the air cleaner which had been painted black multiple times. The repaints had been applied to the inside of the base (all over the spark arrestor, etc) and the underside of the lid which does not look right . Anyone with a few pics or direction on what should/should not be painted?
Thanks - Chris

21

General Discussion / Re: New guy, New project ' 67

« on: October 03, 2014, 10:45:09 PM »

Mike - not on the cowl tag. I have those also. If you blow up the picture of the VIN on the door jamb - there looks to be 3
stamped numbers above the actual production number??

22

General Discussion / Re: New guy, New project ' 67

« on: October 03, 2014, 01:07:45 PM »

Mike,
Interesting on the number. I know you have an 11a also. Does it have these other numbers? Mine does not.
Thanks-Chris

23

General Discussion / Re: New guy, New project ' 67

« on: October 03, 2014, 02:07:00 AM »

MooneyDriver - glad to see another LOS '67 coming back to life.  Mines an 11A.  Bolero Red w/Black interior (L30 motor w/M20 4 speed). Lots to do like yours. I'm sure we'll be comparing notes.
Q: I was looking at your vin tag and noticed what looks like 3 numbers stamped above the production number (106 or 186?) I don't recall seeing that before. Anyone?

24

General Discussion / 1969 COPO - Owner looking for info.

« on: September 26, 2014, 02:06:46 AM »

Could be the makings of an interesting story if that's what it really is.....
 http://newjersey.craigslist.org/wan/4672816554.html

25

Restoration / Re: Hours of body part install

« on: September 18, 2014, 01:41:12 AM »

Just got my '67 back from the body shop last Friday night. I mentioned on another thread that Kerr had started that I was working with one of the larger insurance based shops in my area (Northeast) and that they agreed to take on my project as filler work. I negotiated a rate of $45/hr. The job ended up being replacement (due to extensive rust) of the following:
1. Rear shock towers (both) - area about 18x8
2. Inner wheel arches (both)
3. Quarter size hole around rear floor drain plug
4. Quarter size hole in pan near gas tank strap mount
5. Patch both forward outer wheel arches at rocker access plugs - the holes had rusted larger in size so plugs no longer fit.

The techs were pretty skillfull and we decided not to go with a whole new trunk pan install as it was generally in good condition. However, I did buy a full pan from Summit Racing to save on fabrication time as there's quite a bit of sandwiched metal and contours in the shock tower area - so was better to cut the bad stuff out and replace with a preformed piece to minimize the weld lines. The Car will need rear quarters at some point - but I can live with them for now (that will be part of the full outer resto when I'm not hemorraging college money)

Total billed hrs was 50.5 - so a little under $2300 in labor.
So I agree with the general opinion - I think your your hrs estimate is way low. We figured initally about 20 hrs per side - but once we got going - more rust! I would easily add 25% additional labor cost to your worst case estimate.

26

Restoration / Re: body parts, am i over looking anything.. also...

« on: September 06, 2014, 10:05:18 PM »

Suggestion if you are in no rush...
I'm knee deep in the restoration of my '67 L30/M20 and I'm no welder either. I needed to address some rust issues around the shock towers and inner wheel arches  so I visted a few local body shops (the large insurance based operations - not small resto shops) and explained my situation. Some were not interested at all but a couple were.  For the one I ended up going  with I was able to negotiate a reduced hourley rate for the repairs. All told me up front that its very hard to estimate these jobs because you never know what you are going to find (as you well know!)  They were also fine with me ordering the parts (keep in mind these shops work off  very defined insurance lists for prep/paint/etc) - so they were glad to not have to flip though the internet looking for parts not in their insurance data base.
Now the down side. The agreement was they would use the job as "filler work".That means no defined completion date (and no nagging)  Their work to date has been great.  I've been checking in every few weeks and taking pictures along the way - but they've had the car for >2  months for what would probaly take 1-2 weeks if they were totally focused. The other concern I'm sure your're thinking is quality.  Its been great as I've had as many as 5 shop tech's involved.  These guys daily job is really just unbolting and rebolting new parts - but at some time they've all done restoration work so the combined experience has really been a benefit.
Your situation is MUCH more extensive and I'm not sure if anyone would take it on - but you never know. The final item I'll mention is because the shop is doing  a little at a time  - I'm very aware of the $$$ to date and can just stop - so I can adjust my plan (and budget) and not end up with a car thats in a million  pieces with jobs half done and beyond my abilites to put back together. Good luck!

27

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Frt Bumper Stamp

« on: July 05, 2014, 01:26:37 PM »

Old thread here but while rehabbing my front bumper (67 L30/M20) - ran across a similar stamp.
Just posting for reference  in support of the orig. post that the stamping was not a one-off.
Number reads: 52H05 and is also located in 4 separate places.

*Rear bumper does not seem to have any stamps at all.

28

Restoration / Re: Bumper Finish

« on: July 03, 2014, 06:50:36 PM »

Thanks guys. I'll try a couple suggestions and see what looks best.

29

Restoration / Bumper Finish

« on: June 23, 2014, 12:55:52 AM »

Looking for coating suggestions for the back side of a bumper. Recrome is not part of the plan right now - really just looking to stop any further damage. Driver car. Outside finish is pretty good (not perfect) - but matches all the other 47 year old chrome. Thanks

30

Restoration / Fuel Line - '67 L30 w/Q-Jet

« on: June 16, 2014, 01:38:14 AM »

So while replacing the fuel lines on my '67 L30 - I apparenty didn't pay close attention to the diameter of the fuel line  from the tank to the pump (this is what I get for working on the car at 1:00 a.m.), ordered and installed a 3/8" line only to discover today when comparing it to the line from the pump to the carb - that the originals are  both 5/16". So I now have 3/8 into the pump and 5/16 out into the the carb - will this cause problems? Pump is stock. Carb is stock Q-Jet for L30/275. Stupid mistake that I'm going to correct - but will this cause problems in the short run to the the pump, carb, etc? Thanks - Chris