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Messages - KurtS

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General Discussion / Re: 1967 pace car
« on: June 18, 2018, 04:49:38 AM »
Big blocks were stamped before the head was installed.....

Maintenance / Re: Oil
« on: June 01, 2018, 05:27:21 AM »
The oil has a unique green color...
When PA crude comes out of the ground, the color can vary from water clear to dark brown. They must be adding a dye to it.

Restoration / Re: Convertible top differences
« on: June 01, 2018, 05:18:56 AM »
Huh? Differences between what?

General Discussion / Re: Kick Panel Speakers - spacer
« on: June 01, 2018, 02:40:54 AM »
It isn't obvious to me why the 4 spacers were needed.
The spacers were removed for 69 production.

General Discussion / Re: Correct Shocks for 1968 Camaro LF-7 327 SB
« on: May 30, 2018, 04:45:40 AM »
Go with the part #'s in the AIM.

General Discussion / Re: Typical price value for a 67 convertible.
« on: May 25, 2018, 02:21:42 AM »

Originality / Re: Smog Pump Spacer Usage
« on: May 21, 2018, 03:24:55 PM »
I have some original bolts, I try to find and measure them...

Or is there a better way? Related question, the original alternator being only 37A, could the internals be upgraded to say 55A output?
What problem are you trying to fix? More output for what reason? There are very low electrical loads in an original car.
What matters more than a number is when it's generating that output (the shape of the output curve). 55A at 15000 alternator rpm means nothing (how long do you spin your engine that fast?), 15 amps at 2000 alt rpms (about idle) is meaningful.
Idle is a worst-case condition. Very little alternator output. Electric cooling fans are huge draws. On new cars, the alternator can't keep up at idle - the battery is dead after 2 hours of idling.
Also, having the alternator cut-in (turn on) at a lower rpm will not affect its output.

I took my alternator to the local shop. I didn't let him blast the case (oh, he wanted to), but he popped in new diodes and bearings and it's good.

Originality / Re: Smog Pump Spacer Usage
« on: May 21, 2018, 01:55:22 AM »

Originality / Re: A Brace of Z10's on eBay
« on: May 21, 2018, 01:52:44 AM »
I think the VIN is in their website's pics.

General Discussion / Re: motor mounts
« on: May 18, 2018, 03:29:17 AM »
To have two CRG guys bashing that stuff and dissuading somebody from using it, I don't get it.
I will post my opinion and I've done so in the past and will continue. We talk about a lot of things that aren't original. So we shouldn't discuss base/clear paint?

The original motor mounts have been clearly stated.
I hate the usage of the recall cable. I always have and have said so many times. It's not factory and it's a bandaid added 3 years after the cars were produced.
I don't think the new original mounts are a big risk, but I won't run them.

Originality / Re: A Brace of Z10's on eBay
« on: May 17, 2018, 05:04:52 AM »
Yes, both are in the database.
124379N637277 is probably NOM. The engine was 4-5 months ahead of the car w/ no VIN, now it matches....
124379N639396 - $99K for a L48?  What's that thing mounted on the subframe (last picture in the auction)?

General Discussion / Re: motor mounts
« on: May 17, 2018, 04:41:11 AM »
Huh? So you would run nylon toothed timing gears??

The recall was the largest ever in the auto industry and they cut corners to reduce the implementation cost. 
Interlocking was a design change that I believe was implemented in 69 (the other divisions already had interlocking). So that is a vintage design. And if you broke a mount in 69, that's what you'd get. The recall was 1972.
Airbags are kinda newer technology, not sure what you point is......

Your choices are:
run a poor design that all the other divisions chose not to use
run a poor design with a ugly bandaid so when it breaks, it doesn't bind up the throttle linkage (which is why they went to cable linkage in 70)
run a better design that noone can see anyway

General Discussion / Re: motor mounts
« on: May 16, 2018, 02:36:34 PM »
The recall was a cheap & ugly band-aid. They didn't want to replace all those mounts, too much money.
The interlocking mounts are superior design and the only thing I'd run in a car. Would you run a nylon tooth timing gear just to be original, even though they fail??

General Discussion / Re: Oil pressure at idle
« on: May 15, 2018, 02:23:55 AM »
You need to hook up an accurate gauge to see what it is actually running.
And the factory gauge is not....

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