New guy, New project ' 67

[MyRed67]

Mike,
Interesting on the number. I know you have an 11a also. Does it have these other numbers? Mine does not.
Thanks-Chris

Chris,  Yes, mine has those #'s.  I'm assuming you're talking about the A638.

[MyRed67]

Personally, I like the red, but I tire of seeing non-Z cars with Z-stripes.
How about this, which is what it originally looked like?

[/quote]
I like that look also.  I considered many options, even some different colors.  One option I considered was original Bolero Red with "Stinger" Hood with "Stinger" stripe.  I still 2 nd. guess that option some times.

[Sauron327]

the first one, the front fenders, where they always rust out between the support and the skin, on the lower section, is there a way to permanently seal that so it doesnt happen again? Or just coat it with undercoating and hope for the best?  Seems a bad design, the way stuff can get in there and not get out (obviously as they commonly rust there)

When you repair them just spilt the brace from the fender, blast and epoxy. Undercoating does more harm than good. Don't seal it, if you do, whatever water gets in will be trapped. Vehicles are not designed to last. I've repaired numerous newer vehicles this year due to rot.

[67rs327]

Mike - not on the cowl tag. I have those also. If you blow up the picture of the VIN on the door jamb - there looks to be 3
stamped numbers above the actual production number??

[MooneyDriver]

When you repair them just spilt the brace from the fender, blast and epoxy. Undercoating does more harm than good. Don't seal it, if you do, whatever water gets in will be trapped. Vehicles are not designed to last. I've repaired numerous newer vehicles this year due to rot.

Good call, Ill look into that! Thanks!

[69glacierblue]

Love the dark red you are thinking of.  Agree on the epoxy.  Best of luck on the resto...keep the pics coming as you make progress!

[MyRed67]

Mike - not on the cowl tag. I have those also. If you blow up the picture of the VIN on the door jamb - there looks to be 3
stamped numbers above the actual production number??

Chris,  No, mine just has the Vin.# and CHEVROLET  00 along what would be the top edge.

[MooneyDriver]

Here is the full size of that door jam tag

http://johnvh.smugmug.com/Other/67-Camaro-Project/44202810_Qz3rCv#!i=3523708160&k=PHqvSdQ&lb=1&s=O

has a 106 stamped to the right of the vin

[Mike S]

 As I understand it, those extra stamps on the VIN tag was done by the dealer when they received it. I don't remember where I read that though. I have seen those extra stamps a couple of times on NOR cars too.

Mike

[Mike S]

 Looking at this picture posted in reply #14 I see what looks like black paint over spray as indicated by the red arrow where the wiper motor is. I had asked this question before on CRG if there should be firewall blackout over spray in that area and the reply was no and the reasoning is the hole was covered. I found it odd in a way that a line worker would take time to cover a hole and yet the top edge blackout varies widely from car to car even though its stated there was a type of a cover overlaid on the cowl top.
This picture sure looks like black over spray to me.

Mike

[MooneyDriver]

Ill get better pics of that for you today

[MooneyDriver]

yesterdays pics

Engine block numbers


Pics behind the wiper





Firewall


XOXO


Cut part of one quarter out, the worst side, to see what was in there, pretty good shape






Free wax!


I dont know if the offset it wrong, or the tires too big? But both sides will turn and rub the frame


Origional paint in jams and firewall shines right up!

[MooneyDriver]

also, what measurements do you all take before removing a roof? I dont have a front windshield to check fits, I guess any tips for replacing that, and the rear tail panel, Ill probably end up buying the upper cowl piece too, instead of trying to fabricate all the rusted stuff from flat sheetmetal.

Thanks

[Sauron327]

No measurements needed. However, the roof skin may need some mods in the corners. I have a ceiling fixture that allows me to install roof skins by myself. Pretty easy to rig one up. All the moldings will keed to be fit. Tailpanel is pretty straightforward. You'll see what needs to be done when it's mocked up with the new quarters. You'll need an attachment for your stud gum for the molding pins. A box of 500 mold rivets is about 15 bucks.

also, what measurements do you all take before removing a roof? I dont have a front windshield to check fits, I guess any tips for replacing that, and the rear tail panel, Ill probably end up buying the upper cowl piece too, instead of trying to fabricate all the rusted stuff from flat sheetmetal.

Thanks

[MooneyDriver]

Oh yes, I was going to ask about those molding pins, thanks!!

Sold my race car parts so I can order the rest of the sheetmetal soon, hoping someone local will buy my skins so I dont have to eat another $100 in shipping to return them.