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My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow

Started by dannystarr, July 17, 2014, 02:17:20 PM

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dannystarr

Decided to take a look in the carb. I have to know what's in there anyway for proper set-up and diagnosis.

Pump shooter is 25... Primary jets are 68.... PV's are 6.5... What do I order ??? ... Here is the actual carb I got...

                          http://www.ebay.com/itm/330548530059?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Danny

janobyte

PV's are 1/2 vacuum at idle : 6.5 would be for 13"  at idle.   5.0 for 10"

Jets per overhaul manual: 69 primary/76 secondary's.  Leave the squirters alone.
Dwell 28-32   point gap .016 used/.019 new
Plugs AC43 ( cross over to Autolites)
Switch to neoprene metering block gaskets if you have it apart.


Looks like no blow out protection if built 68 spec, but I'd still contact Holley on your carb.  What was your timing at full advance (over 3 grand on the tac ) ?  Timing tape.
68 Z/28  born with: 302, drive line, etc..

luv2sixty9

Dannystarr,
Can you please advise which hardware is original to your car. Post 171 shows your bolts as "E" for the three smaller bolts and "TR" for the long crank bolt. However, post 411 & 412 are showing the smaller bolts as "RBW" and the longer bolt as "W"? I'm into original hardware and both headmarking are correct.
1967 Z/28 Butternut Yellow
1969 Z/28 Rally Green
1969 RS Z/28 Lemans Blue
1969 RS Z/28 Olympic Gold
1969 RS SS Pace Car
2010 Aqua Blue 2SS RS

JohnZ

Quote from: janobyte on September 16, 2014, 08:04:09 PM
Plugs AC43

43's are WAY too cold for normal street use, and will result in some degree of fouling; use 45's (or some other brand that crosses to the 45 heat range).
'69 Z/28
Fathom Green
CRG

janobyte

Agree...just giving him some baselines out of the Overhaul Manual vs. what he may have in there now.
68 Z/28  born with: 302, drive line, etc..

JohnKY

What kind of compression readings are you getting on this engine?

dannystarr

Ok, parts ordered. Will try to get it all back together on Sunday and see what happens.
Compression is 155#'s to 175#'s. With # 8 at 180.... Danny

dannystarr

So I was told there is no 5.0 Power Valves. Only 2.5, 3.5, 4.5 and 6.5... Is it ok to run the 4.5's with 10 inches of vacuum? Danny

janobyte

68 Z/28  born with: 302, drive line, etc..

dannystarr

No work on the car today. Plan change... I am on with my Father Friday night to Monday morning. Bummer, was really looking forward to getting some work completed and maybe even go for a ride. But 84 year old Pop's has Dementia and Alzheimer's and can't be left alone. 30 weekends a year GONE! I know it's the right thing to do. It wouldn't be so hard to do, if he would at least remember beating the living hell out of me growing up. But Mom died of Liver Cancer in '04, and he thinks he never touched us kids. It was the thing to do back then I guess. But I digress... Danny

dannystarr

The idol mixture screws screwed all the way in, make the car race. With both screws screwed all the way in, it should of course die... Right? I decided since it backfired and there is NO PV protection, I purchased the Holley #125-500 kit and installed them both today. Put it in and it still does it. I installed the new 4.5 PV's at the same time. The tech guy I called at Holley tech line said it has to be getting fuel some other way thru the metering block, and that he doesn't know what to do, and to send it back. I still can't diagnose any other problems now. I'm Fu*#ing pissed! .. D

cook_dw

#491
If you screw IN the idle mixture screws the engine should die.  That cuts off fuel on the idle circuit.  Screwing them all the way out is adding fuel.  You have a vacuum leak some where...  The reason is because the leak causes fuel to be pulled through either the boosters or idle circuit.  Also if you have the primary throttle blades opened too far and the transition slot is exposed then that too will cause fuel to be pulled into the venturi (I wouldnt think that is the case at this point unless you do not have enough timing and you have to increase the idle to get it to idle at 800-1000.  Total timing should be 32-36 degrees.  What was the guys name at Holley?

dannystarr

I can't remember the guys name at Holley. I will get a water bottle with 3 or 4 drops of dawn, shake it up and spray it around the intake. I couldn't find a leak the last time I looked. But I see what you are saying. I noticed the P/B hose is showing some wear. I guess I better eliminate that and R and R it. It must be the cause of previous issues. A lot of people talked about it, but I just couldn't find anything. I will try again... D
Oh, and thank you to everyone....

cook_dw

Only reason I ask who it was; because I used to work there and would like to know who the knucklehead was that did not want to help diagnose the problem.  That is their job.!!.  Regardless, dont take this the wrong way but if you can not figure out the problem I would suggest finding someone you can trust to help you get the car dialed in.  Some times another perspective or another set of eyes may see something that you might be overlooking.   ;)

dannystarr

I won't take it the wrong way. I get what you are saying. I am not sure yet if I can't figure it out. It started out with 6 problems, and I am slowly pushing thru them. Today I did a water test to search for leaks. Probably going to have to do a smoke test. When the car doesn't run well at an idol, it's hard to distinguish an issue. Here is what I found. Bubbles coming OUT of the smog pump valve after spraying with water. Is this an issue?. I also noticed the part turns inside the outer part. Should it have movement up and down, meaning turning CW or CCW.... Danny