Do Heat Shields Work?

[lakeholme]

Does anybody have any exeprience with heat shields on a starter?   

http://www.1tail.com/sa/p/Versa-Shield_Universal_Heat_Shield_7_x24_.htm

I know Paul mentioned this same shield in an earlier post, but his knowledge was second-hand.
I want to know if you have tried it and if it works...

Appreciate first hand opinions! 

[hotrod68]

They certainly do, Phil! Especially with headers. I had awful "heat soak" problems on my old 400--it just wouldn't crank on a hot day after you ran it unless you shorted across the solenoid with a screwdriver. It got so bad I ran remote wires and a momentary contact switch under the dash to keep from using the screwdriver. Then I discovered the wonders of DynaMat. You wrap it around the starter and solenoid and secure it with metal ties. It's not pretty, but it works. But the ultimate problem turned out to be the purple wire itself--over the years the copper had broken down and it had a lot of resistance. I replaced mine from the fuse box with a 10-gauge wire and never had anymore problems. Knock on wood...  Hope this helps, friend.

[lakeholme]

Thanks Hotrod. Yes, it does!  Already replaced the wire... but on a 90+ day here in NC (and running the AC), still won't crank --at the worst possible times!

Still like more opinions...

[olympic69]

It has been a while, but we used to use "big block" starters in our modified cars- it had heavier windings and never failed to start here in the Texas heat.

I will see if my buddy recalls the details... 

[lakeholme]

Rob, thanks.  I would like to know the details. 
What I'm looking for is someway to preserve my "original" starter and still drive the car in the heat.  (I actually remember the Texas heat from the 60s.  Now, that's hot!)

[Old Man]

It has been a while, but we used to use "big block" starters in our modified cars- it had heavier windings and never failed to start here in the Texas heat.

I will see if my buddy recalls the details... 

I tried that on my 69 SBC, the BBC starter has a different bolt pattern than the SBC unit does, won't work.

[rich69rs]

Three basic types of heat transfer:  conductive, convective, and radiant (or combinations thereof).  Heat shields definitely reduce radiated heat transfer.  Color is also important in that a light color reflects the heat source as opposed to black which would absorb heat.  Consequently heat shields are usually nothing more exotic than bare metal stampings -  the bare metal color (silver) reflects the heat back toward the source.  Things still get warm, but not as hot as they would be without the shield.

Conversely, the body of the starter, painted black, aborbs heat.  Always wondered why the starter body was painted black insstead of some lighter color.

[lakeholme]

OK, it did it again today...  Opened the hood and 10 minutes later it started! 
Now, any opinions on which heat shield is best?   

[rich69rs]

I went through this about 10 years ago - my poor ol' 327 wouldn't start hot.  Problem was the starter itself and of course exhaust manifold heat made it worse.  Phillip, see the following - you may remember the discussion:  http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=2024.0

Also, related thread at:  http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=874.0

[lakeholme]

Thanks, Richard, I do remember that thread.  Note the second post in that thread (mine).  I've already dealt with both the starter itself and wiring issues...  And even had all that checked out by my favorite auto electrical shop.  (They pointed out the exact same wiring issues that JohnZ mentions in that second thread.)

I do agree that often a wiring issue is missed, but that's not my issue here.

Still looking for opinions about best heat shield....

[68Zproject]

I've never had this problem.  Am I just lucky, or was this not a common problem?

[lakeholme]

Depends on how you define "common"... It does happen on some drivers and like observed above (and in the other threads mentioned), it can be in the wiring, not just the starter.  I got my wiring straight and now in hot weather, the starter still acts up (or should I say "doesn't act till it cools").  That's why I'm considering some shielding.

[rich69rs]

Phillip,

Are you sure it isn't the starter itself?  Worn bushings, internal dragging, etc?  If you still have stock manifolds, can't imagine why you would really need a heat shield if everything else is ok.  As I mentioned earlier, my poor ol' 327 did this until I got the starter itself squared away.

Hope yo find it soon - this is cruisin' weather!

Richard

[lakeholme]

Well, I'm not above tearing it apart again.  But that would be the third time in two years.  Either way, I'm going to have an "expert" look at it this fall.  Actually, Dave, got me inspired and I'm thinking about having the whole thing repainted and some interior and motor work done this winter.  That would be the final steps in the de-cloning of this car.  (My ultimate purpose as a classic car lover...)

As for cruisin'... even having to sit for a half hour with the hood open won't stop me from cruisin'!!!  This car is a driver!  I've had trailer queens and I've got trophies and plaques on the garage wall.  Cars are made to be driven!     

[olympic69]

I am still trying to get in touch with my friend ( on vacation) to see what starter we used- it had heavier windings, and a bigger "connector" between the motor and the solonoid- when I speak with him I will advise...sorry about the delay!

It has been a while, but we used to use "big block" starters in our modified cars- it had heavier windings and never failed to start here in the Texas heat.

I will see if my buddy recalls the details... 

I tried that on my 69 SBC, the BBC starter has a different bolt pattern than the SBC unit does, won't work.