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Update....So I got the new canister and inner fender brace and no difference.  I actually was ready to shorten the rod on the canister and realized when I took off the boot that would not make a difference as it was all the way pushed in hitting on the clevis pin apparatus.  So I decided the easiest way to fix my issue was to use a dermal the weld on the bottom of the bell crank and rotate the bottom attachment to the actuator just a small amount.  it is a D shaft so you will have to use the Dremel to round it out a little.  Then rotate the direction you need to get the door to close.  I tacked  it in the car, then took it out and re welded it in the correct clocked position.  Fixed it in 3 hours Vs fighting it for the 20 hours I did before that.  Hope this helps someone!  I will post some pics soon!

it is AMD inner fender, with CHQ brace

Any other ideas from the community?

I ordered a new bracket and different canister to see if that will fix it.  I have read that some people actually shorten the rod of the canister and reattach the clevis pin ring.  I have also read that the rear bracket can be modified.  I hope I do not have to do this!  We will see!  Thanks for the info and discussion!

I have shimmed it at the radiator core support, I have loosened the bolts and closed it as far as I could and re tightened them.  It will close all the way if the actuator is disconnected.  It is like the actuator rod is too long?

here are some pics, the right passenger is fine, it is the drivers side that is about 1/2 inch from closing.  The actuator is all the way pushed in.  Cant find any more adjustment for it.  I did scoot the canister as far back as I could on the bracket.

Hello,
I have a 1969 RS camaro.  I have a pair of original non RS headlight buckets (the bucket that the headlight and bezel attach) not the full housing.  Will the Non-RS buckets work to attach to the RS housing?  is there a difference?  Thanks Joe

Hello,

Everything is new (vacuum) and my headlight doors do not fully close, how to I adjust that?  They will close if not connected to the rod of the Actuator.  I have the vacuum cans all the way back but I am still need about 3/4" more to get both doors fully closed.  It seems like the rod of the actuator is too long?  Is there any adjustment?

Thanks for any help you can give! - Joe 

Templates show the rear reverse tail light cut out but not the holes in the trunk pan for the wires to pass through from the tail light to the reverse lights

Thanks Kurt!  Do you know what size hole the RS penetration would be?

Hello,
I had to replace the trunk pan in my car.  Can anyone help me with a diagram where to drill the correct holes for the reverse lights in a 1969 RS Camaro?  Also the hole for the license plate light.  Thanks for your help

I looked at the Assembly manual again UPC 1, C1.  In that diagram which is the front and which is the back of the camaro.  The Sill molding retainer I got from OER is longer than the one in the above picture.

Thanks!  That would be helpful

I did look at the Camaro Assembly manual, just not real clear from the diagram. 

I was wondering if anyone can help me with the rocker molding retainer.  It is shorter than the molding itself.  Does the retainer cross the front fender? Or does it start on the rear quarter panel?  Any pics would be helpful.