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I have a cast in "S" on my original box.  Julian date "274 8" Car was built on Oct '68.  Not sure how to post pictures here but I do have one.

Maybe there was some variation or asumptions?

It's not the fluid that changed, it's the rubber materials that have changed.  Raybestos seems to have the right material at least as far as the master cylinder kit I just got.  Do your own homework here.  The company is struggling financially at this point so if you need rubber pieces for your DOT-5 car, you might want to look into that soon. Bad accounting practices.  

I use DOT-5 in my classics and they do not seem to mind it, but they were all done decades ago. 

The divider has been cut down to make the manifold work more like a single plane.  It looses bottom end torque and manners for an attempt to gain top end power.  It does not work as well as a true single plane and it does not work as well as a dual plane anymore either.  It can be weld repaired back to stock and the crack at the oil filler fixed too.  Jerry Macniesh can make it look 100% like new if you want.  He does great work with these pieces. It is pretty rare but seems a little overpriced given the condition.  Maybe you can buy it and have it restored to like new? $$$ 

Look for a "472" intake from a '69 Z/28.  It looks very similar but you can't use it because the water neck is in the wrong place.  You might find a picture of what an unmodified divider looks like.

None of that stuff is factory installed.  Fiberglass hood, pins, cowl plenum, headers, cross rams etc were never factory installed.  Cowl plenum and headers were shipped loose in trunk if ordered.  The rest were all sold over the parts counter.   

Is that a Z-20 cam?  Maybe Z-25?

Another item that was available from GM were the hood pins.  They would have been used on the fiberglass cowl induction hoods that were available from the HD Service Parts list.  The GM fiberglass hoods all came with hood pin holes.

Hood pins were never stock. Cross rams were not stock either. Headers could be ordered but none of that would be factory installed. 

My advice is to cut the minimum out of the floor pans as needed and keep any original metal you still can use.  The repro stuff is rather thin and its easy to loose structural/dimensional integrity when you replace the whole shebang at one time.

I got some crappy outer rear wheel housings years ago that DID NOT fit when it was time to fire up the MIG. Too late to return.

Seems like you could measure .020" lifter rise, then zero lash at that point without disturbing the engine.  Back the engine off down to the base circle of the cam and measure the lash there.  This would be the maximum cold lash setting for your stock "30-30" cam and what ever rocker arm you are running.  The lash ramp is .020" high on those lobes.

The "30-30" cam lash ramp is so slow the difference between hot and cold would seem to be very small, but it would always be good to check it hot to see if it made a measurable difference.  I have a car with an aftermarket cam that varies quite a bit from hot to cold but the lash ramps are much faster on that cam. Different profile demands it.

Neither of those 2 possible V8 VINs come up in the NICB database as stolen or as a total loss vehicle, per insurance company records.  Not saying you are out of the woods but at least you know that. 

Removing the VIN tag is trouble. It would not be wise to put a lot of money into that car.

No corrosion stains anywhere.  How does that happen?

Gary the Tachman did mine decades ago.  Still working great.
H&H Auto
Call: 1-864-895-4404
www.tachman.com

I think that manifold is much later.  Could have come from a GM crate motor.  The squared off port exits give it away at a glance. Assy line intakes were plain.

It has the centraly located thermostat housing so it would work for a '69.  Earlier Z/28 manifolds had an offset thermostat location that would not line of with the long water pump style '69 alternator bracket.

If you have a modified car you could add a switch to the transmission.  Either the GM switch to the reverse lever or a Hurst switch on the shifter.  Run the pink and green wires to it if I remember the colors right.

If you remove the lock plate from the column, the locking effect goes away.


Some people have modified the lockout linkage to keep it all functioning.   

Hope this helps.

Might be worth it to get the compressor and entire system flushed out before you install it.  Start fresh.