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My advice is to cut the minimum out of the floor pans as needed and keep any original metal you still can use.  The repro stuff is rather thin and its easy to loose structural/dimensional integrity when you replace the whole shebang at one time.

I got some crappy outer rear wheel housings years ago that DID NOT fit when it was time to fire up the MIG. Too late to return.

Seems like you could measure .020" lifter rise, then zero lash at that point without disturbing the engine.  Back the engine off down to the base circle of the cam and measure the lash there.  This would be the maximum cold lash setting for your stock "30-30" cam and what ever rocker arm you are running.  The lash ramp is .020" high on those lobes.

The "30-30" cam lash ramp is so slow the difference between hot and cold would seem to be very small, but it would always be good to check it hot to see if it made a measurable difference.  I have a car with an aftermarket cam that varies quite a bit from hot to cold but the lash ramps are much faster on that cam. Different profile demands it.

Neither of those 2 possible V8 VINs come up in the NICB database as stolen or as a total loss vehicle, per insurance company records.  Not saying you are out of the woods but at least you know that. 

Removing the VIN tag is trouble. It would not be wise to put a lot of money into that car.

No corrosion stains anywhere.  How does that happen?

Gary the Tachman did mine decades ago.  Still working great.
H&H Auto
Call: 1-864-895-4404
www.tachman.com

I think that manifold is much later.  Could have come from a GM crate motor.  The squared off port exits give it away at a glance. Assy line intakes were plain.

It has the centraly located thermostat housing so it would work for a '69.  Earlier Z/28 manifolds had an offset thermostat location that would not line of with the long water pump style '69 alternator bracket.

If you have a modified car you could add a switch to the transmission.  Either the GM switch to the reverse lever or a Hurst switch on the shifter.  Run the pink and green wires to it if I remember the colors right.

If you remove the lock plate from the column, the locking effect goes away.


Some people have modified the lockout linkage to keep it all functioning.   

Hope this helps.

Might be worth it to get the compressor and entire system flushed out before you install it.  Start fresh.

Idle vacuum was ?

I think he has a Comp 12-770-8, 274/280, 564/570, 110 LSA   

Or a Hurst locknut.  ;~D

Yes it is possible.  Either a warranty replacement or a parts department over the counter purchase.

They would have a "CT" stamping. 

I know they never came with a jam nut BUT...
Chevrolet discontinued the Chrome Ball very early as I tried to get one in the early '80's and they were already discontinued by then.  The last iteration they sold was a crappy black plastic version smaller than the original and they looked like they belonged on a kids toy.  The repro looks pretty  good but the threads are no way as good as GM.  You need the lock nut just to keep it screwed on.

Ball bearings on the input shaft are more tolerant to bell housing misalignment. Muncies use that type. 

Factory bell housing alignment are usually good enough for service with the Muncie and with a bronze bushing they are trouble free and easy to service.  Newer reproduction bell housings or aftermarket bell housings are more frequently out of alignment enough to need offset pins to correct it.

The newer design Tremec transmissions use a tapered roller front bearing that is more intolerant of bell housing runout so it needs to be checked and corrected before buttoning it all together.

As for the pilot bearing vs bushing - the bushing works great and is easy to remove and install.  The bearing is more difficult to remove, more intolerant of misalignment and does not bring anything to the table so....Why would anyone prefer a pilot bearing?  JMO.

"3310" 750 CFM vacuum secondary is a close match.  It comes as a manual choke but they do offer a different version with a built in electric choke. 

The 1810 is more of a universal economy carb model.