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I think he has a Comp 12-770-8, 274/280, 564/570, 110 LSA   

Or a Hurst locknut.  ;~D

Yes it is possible.  Either a warranty replacement or a parts department over the counter purchase.

They would have a "CT" stamping. 

I know they never came with a jam nut BUT...
Chevrolet discontinued the Chrome Ball very early as I tried to get one in the early '80's and they were already discontinued by then.  The last iteration they sold was a crappy black plastic version smaller than the original and they looked like they belonged on a kids toy.  The repro looks pretty  good but the threads are no way as good as GM.  You need the lock nut just to keep it screwed on.

Ball bearings on the input shaft are more tolerant to bell housing misalignment. Muncies use that type. 

Factory bell housing alignment are usually good enough for service with the Muncie and with a bronze bushing they are trouble free and easy to service.  Newer reproduction bell housings or aftermarket bell housings are more frequently out of alignment enough to need offset pins to correct it.

The newer design Tremec transmissions use a tapered roller front bearing that is more intolerant of bell housing runout so it needs to be checked and corrected before buttoning it all together.

As for the pilot bearing vs bushing - the bushing works great and is easy to remove and install.  The bearing is more difficult to remove, more intolerant of misalignment and does not bring anything to the table so....Why would anyone prefer a pilot bearing?  JMO.

"3310" 750 CFM vacuum secondary is a close match.  It comes as a manual choke but they do offer a different version with a built in electric choke. 

The 1810 is more of a universal economy carb model.

The Chevy Power Manual has pictures of these lifters. The standard solid lifter was the "piddle valve" and it has a hole for oil feed in the machined down waist area (typical of the hydraulic and sold flat tappet lifters you see today). The "Edge Orifice" reduced oil feed solid lifters have the oil feed hole on the large diameter of the lifter body so it gets a lot less oil feed.

The Power Manual also shows the "Mushroom" solid lifter which has a larger foot that rides on the lobe and must be installed in the block from the bottom of the lifter bore.  The mushroom lifter can move the valve faster due to the larger foot at the cam. More agressive cam profiles are possible.

Just a thought - Might be good to post the "Green Sheets" car prep details, if you have them.

Its a "Z/28" pan. probably a "465220" per the Chevy Power Manual.  The part number and minor details changed a few times. It was available in the Performance Parts catalog for many years. It was discontinued not that long ago.

Most of the Corvette pans were shaped differently (shallower and longer sump) and are unique to Corvettes.  Corvette windage trays were shorter in length. The front of the Corvette tray is truncated so it only covers the sump, as the pan bottom runs into it there.

Oddly, the '79 Corvette L-82 actually used a version of this "Z/28 style" deeper sump pan with the long windage tray. Only 1 year.

The block changed in '80 (dipstick side) so the pans changed again after that.

Have you changed anything on the car recently?  Ignition box?  Some times you need a diode in the regulator circuit to prevent it from back-feeding.  I have one.

Some people might want to tackle this at home. The headliner was not difficult but I have some very valuable tips that you will not get from a book. Print this out or save for reference.

Start by disconnecting the battery or just the courtesy light fuse. Begin by removing all the stuff that screws into the roof and bag together the pieces with the hardware. Pull the roof rail windlacing off and the front and rear windlacing as well. It helps to have the front and rear glass out to do this job but it can be done with it still installed. Cut out the old headliner and you will notice there are support rods set into holes on the side structure. You must label the rods so you know the order they go back into the car front to rear. You must also label the holes they came out of before you remove them, as there are 3 different sets of holes. I used a black magic marker on the sides of the roof for this. Masking tape on the roof bows for labels. Polish off the surface rust on the bows to help the new headliner slide better at assembly/adjustment time.

The new headliner will be labeled "front" and will have a centerline. Cut a small "V" on the front and back to help find the center from looking at the other side. Here are the best tips I have for the headliner. Buy 4-6 boxes of medium size sheet metal paper clamps that look like butterflies from the office supply store. You will really need at least 4 dozen. All fasteners for anything that attaches to the roof should be installed at this time to help you find the holes after the headliner is installed. You will install the headliner over them and feel around with your fingers for them after the headliner is in place.

You need to buy 3M lighter duty headliner glue. Start with installing the bows into the headliner then put the center bow in the roof first. You will need to scrunch the headliner on both sides, as it will be too long for the bows. Install all the bows in their original locations and starting from the center bow. The white plastic bow center retainers can be soaked in a cup of hot water to make them pliable before installing the bows. 

Start trimming back the listings a small amount at a time. Do a small amount on one side, and then do the same bow on the other side. Use the paper clamps to attach the headliner to the metal edges on the sides of the car. Another trick here is to cut a slit in the liner on both sides of the listing about 1/4" away from each seam. This will give you a tab to pull on while you are adjusting the listings with a razor blade or scissors. You want to pull out most all the wrinkles to get a clean job. The listings need to be intact within 1" of the ends of the bows in order for the roof to look right when finished.

There is a tacking strip on the inside of the sail panel. You will need a staple gun to attach the material there. Always remember to work out the wrinkles as you go.

When you have the sides nice and tight and where you want them, you can glue them to the metal edges. Do one side at a time using the paper clamps. When both sides are done, you work on the front and rear. Pull the material tight as you glue and clamp it to the metal edging. If all goes well at this point, you are home free.

Recover the side earmuff sail panel covers with the material provided and the headliner glue. The grain needs to go the same direction as it did originally so pay attention to it. If your cardboard is rotten, you can make new ones or buy replacements. The retainers are the same as for the inner door panels. If you need to make new panels, you will need to transfer the old retainer clips to the new replacement panels. I cut the old ones out leaving a square hole and used the old panels to mark the locations on the new panels. 3M black weather strip adhesive worked well here. Just push the retainers into the sail panels and they are done.

After the glue has dried on the metal edges, remove the paper clamps and install the windlacing. Feel with your fingers to find the fasteners and cut tiny slits for the screws. Attach the coat hooks, shoulder belts, sun visors etc. and you are done. If your visors need recovering, I would have it done by an upholstery shop. Mine were fine so I just reinstalled them.

Careful heating and/or steam will work out any remaining wrinkles. Cut off any excess material and that is it.

Hope this is not too much information. This was my first headliner and I am glad I did it myself. Very satisfying.

Good luck!

Note: Non-standard color combination.  Required some signatures to get it built that way, I believe.  UGLY. 

Body color written on firewall - "RGRN" for Rally Green here.  10A build.

I believe interior paint color was written on the passenger side rear seat bulkead (on at least early norwood cars). "LG" for light green interor paint (officially "Medium Green"). Fisher needed an easy way to know what color to paint inside and outside on the back half of the car.

Was the RGRN on the firewall blackout on under it?

I can't say for certain either way.  I did not find firewall marking until my car was apart.  Maybe 23 years ago or so.  Owned it over 40 years so no resto grafitti.  I did spray bomb the firewall black at that time.

Found a few inspection marks (not all 3) on the side of the firewall (behind the front fenders once they were off).

Rear bulkhead marks were yellow, very dry, almost chalky. Some of it rubbed off when touched.  Found that marking back about 1979. "LG7"

Body color written on firewall - "RGRN" for Rally Green here.  10A build.

I believe interior paint color was written on the passenger side rear seat bulkead (on at least early norwood cars). "LG" for light green interor paint (officially "Medium Green"). Fisher needed an easy way to know what color to paint inside and outside on the back half of the car.

I think the "186" heads were used by Flint and the "041" heads were used by Tonawanda.