Messages

[and later engines]

John Hinckley's article on "Building the Small-Block V8 at Flint Engine" ......."

The attached picture is from this article. 

Question:  Was this decal only used in 1967 or was it used as the caption states:

"67 and later engines had a Flint Engine "Number One Team" sticker applied to the front of the passenger side valve cover.


Richard

The bottom line is, in my estimation maybe DOT 5 is more prone to imperfections and sealing surfaces have to be very good.  I was disappointed at the workmanship on the rebuilds......I know the rebuilders don't like DOT 5 and maybe it's due to the above. 

I do know that if you spill DOT 3 or if the rebuilt part leaks and damages an expensive paint job, will they reimburse you for the paint work?  I think we all know the answer to that.  It's just not worth the risk to me.  If I had used DOT 3 and it leaked as the 5 did, I would be out thousands in paint repair to disamantle and pull the subframe to fix it.  If you have a driver level car and you are not worried about having good paint, go for it and use DOT 3 (or 4 or 5.1)

Get good folks doing the work, but trust that no one did the job right.  When assembling your engine, verify that all the machining was done correct and that all clearances are correct.

Exactly

Reminds me of a thread a few years ago on this forum where someone was stating that Pertronix had a 50% failure rate on their electronic distributor conversion kits - which was obviously not an accurate fact.  But since he couldn't make it work - fault had to be with Pertronix.

Always easier to assign blame than address root cause.

Richard

These templates are readily available from multiple sources .........

Not recommending this - simply showing as one of many examples.

https://classicparts.com/1969-backup-lamp-template-rs?srsltid=AfmBOooJfLoIs2a2qcQysfJtYhtOLO1hTNEGIRKGDzXgVxmVVhPu8haJ

Richard

I've also used DOT 5 brake fluid for probably 20+ years in my '66 Chevelle & '69 Camaro RS and am still using it.

Haven't had any issues to date.

Richard

Any possibility of overfilling with too much oil in the replacement oil pans?

Richard

Very nice - well done!

Richard

Just had a new set of BFG Radial T/A's put on my '69 RS.  The set of T/A's that were on the car were installed back in 2007 and had hardened to the point where there was a definite degradation / harshness in ride quality.  The car rides much nicer now with the new rubber.

If you are not being attentive to it, tire age will definitely sneak up on you, it did on me,

No point taking any risks - and for cars that do not accumulate a lot of miles, tread wear is not what you need to monitor.

From what I've read, tires need to be changed at least every 10 years (if not sooner), regardless of mileage.

Although in the U.S., there are no specific laws prohibiting using or servicing tires older than 10 years, many (most?) tire shops these days simply will not service a tire 10 years or older due to the potential liability involved if it were to later fail in service.

I just ran into this when I asked the shop to put one of the old T/A's on my spare and they said no way. 

Richard

Good to see the forum up & running again!

Richard

Well clearly the deeper strike of the "O" and other numbers vs the depth of the "M" looks a little odd.

Richard

Uh-oh!

Richard

Enjoy the car as it is..........

......... don't let it [finding the whole story] consume you.

Exactly why I am so glad my '69 RS isn't anything special.  Not worried about originality, value, or over thinking it - just get to enjoy driving a very nice ride.

Richard

Norwood, O1C, RS

Stamped numbers on end of motor:  5045605, Type E, 12v
Stamped wording on side of motor:  Delco Products, Rochester N.Y. USA  (Couldn't get a very good picture - brake booster is in the way - but you can make out "N.Y. USA" at the end of the stamping.

Richard

["GM documentation confirms that drum brake master cylinders are BS code and most drum brake master cylinders are coded BS. But a limited number have been observed with the CT code, in both manual and power drum applications. The CT code was used on drum brake applications on Pontiac and Buick vehicles. It is presumed that the CT part was used as a substitute during a parts shortage that and the differences between the BS and CT master cylinders are minor."]

Different master cylinders were used for Camaros with manual and power drum brakes per CRG as there were bleed valves used on the master cylinder for power drum brakes:

http://www.camaros.org/suspen.shtml#Brakecomp

Yes, power assist master cylinders are mounted at an angle with trapped air pockets necessitating the need for bleed valves - but all drum brake master cylinders be they manual or power assist have residual pressure valves.

An interesting sidebar point from CRG report......power assist drum brake master cylinder is "usually" stamped BS, however...... 

"GM documentation confirms that drum brake master cylinders are BS code and most drum brake master cylinders are coded BS. But a limited number have been observed with the CT code, in both manual and power drum applications. The CT code was used on drum brake applications on Pontiac and Buick vehicles.  It is presumed that the CT part was used as a substitute during a parts shortage that and the differences between the BS and CT master cylinders are minor."

The power assist drum brake master cylinder in my '69 RS (Norwood 01C) is a "CT" stamped master cylinder. 

Richard

Richard, so what does a factory residual pressure valve look like?  I pulled the brass seat out of an old drum master cyl (rear port) and there was nothing there!  Now I am confused.

The residual pressure valve & spring should be behind the seat.  Refer to the green highlighted text in the 1st & 2nd attachments and middle picture, left column, 2nd attachment.  When you pulled the seat out, it should have been there.

"Another variable at the master cylinder outlets is the use of check valves. They are installed under the tube seats in outlets which are to be connected to drum brakes. The retractor springs in drum brakes tend to force the fluid back into the master cylinder. The function of the check valves is to maintain a line pressure of 8 to 16 psi to keep drum brakes ready for quick responses."

Also refer to:

http://www.camaros.org/brakevalve.shtml#rpv



A general FYI - if you ever find yourself in the need of a replacement MC and you try to source one from any parts source - the residual pressure valves may not be there and the folks at the parts house probably won't know if you ask.  Consequently, my suggestion would be to rebuild a correct MC as opposed to trying to replace it.  Rebuilding it is not difficult at all to do.

Richard

I have two candidates (after I found my bracket).

I skinny one and larger one.  Which is more correct? Thx

My ride has the base 327/210 hp engine which has the small (1-1/4") bore Rochester 2GV 2 Bbl.  The return spring on mine is more like the "skinny" one you show.

Richard