Messages

Hi Vetteskip,  I found some markings on the underside of my spoiler.  05 Norwood Built X77 1969 Z28.  Maybe a D  then a squiggle mark then 9A  or 9N ?

Little hard to read in the picture. 

Jon

Hi David, I went through this process this past summer.  I will preface it by saying I am not sure it is advisable in most states but it worked for me and I did not get sick. I put my car up in the air and used a combination of a heat gun,  shop towels and GOO Be Gone.  I sprayed Goo in a spot then heated with heat gun. Used a plastic scraper and shop towels.  Took it right down to the original color underneath quickly.  A propane torch works better but it will give off a lot of fumes and the goo be gone is flammable. I would stick with a heat gun. Took me a 8 hour day to get the underneath stripped clean of undercoating. The dry ice works will inside the car on the floor.  I tried all sorts of other chemicals like Big Orange, ZEP products, all natural organic stuff made of orange peels or what ever,  Etc.  Nothing came close to GOO Be Gone and a heat gun.  Jon

Hi,  in the process of stripping the paint off my rear Spoiler I found some markings.  When I lightly sanded off the paint from a 1977 repaint I noticed the markings.  It appears to be a Squiggly line and underneath is maybe " D,O,5 or S, ?, ? then 9N " you can make out the 9N in the pictures. 

I tried to look through the forum for some other examples of these markings and how they were used on the assembly line but i did not see any Spoiler examples.  Just curious

Jon

Some of the newer strippers are junk. They reformulated the Klean Strip brand to a better aggressive version and it was great like the old stuff. Then certain states like CT stopped selling it. And this is at a jobber where shops like myself buy it. Someone I know got another brand at HD that worked well but I don't recall the name. I may have been Rustoleum's new formula which I've tried and it was "OK". It shouln't hurt the 'glass like it can to bumper covers which hobby people rarely have to contend with. Common sense dictates to try it first. It helps if you abrade the paint with coarse grit before application. Disappointing strippers are no fun.

Hi Sauron,  I went with Uscrichter's suggestion and the Aircraft Stripper did not do much to the bottom of the spoiler.  So now I think I will try hitting it with a coarse grit and then a coat of stripper.  I tried messaging you on a paint question but it does not appear my question sent?  I will try messaging you again for your advice.  Thanks , Jon

Hi, Thanks for the response.  You are right I used Aircraft stripper back in the 80's and it was strong.  The fumes would take the paint off.  I was leary to use it on the Fiber Glass spoiler,  thinking it would melt it.  I went and bought some new aircraft stripper and tried it on a old  fender.  You are right it is not near as strong.  I may try on the underside of the spolier and see what happens.  Thanks for the advice,  Jon

Hi all,  I need to strip the paint of my rear spoiler.  My understanding is that it is made of SMC Fiberglass (Sheet Molded Compound). What is the best way to remove the paint?

Thanks,  Jon

Sauron,  i was trying to figure out the 5 - 1/2 measurement you referenced.  When Dave sent me the links I only clicked on the David Pozzi link.  It only showed me Horizontal dimensions.  Had I clicked on the other link I would have seen Vertical and Horizontal. I guess its been a long day.  Ugh 

The sub frame measurements can be found here:
http://www.pozziracing.com/Media/F_gen_Firebird_sub.jpg

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50407

Thanks Dave,  I just clicked on the David Pozzi link.  So it only showed me Horizontal.  Sauron, replied to me about the Vertical.  I went back and clicked on the other link and that's what i was looking for. 

Thanks Sauron,  I just looked up anchor pot,  had never heard of one.  I going to try and find some tomorrow.  That's definitely something I need in my building.  I am trying to come up with a way to use a block and jack or my Porta power. 

Jon

Hi Dave here are some picture that may help explain. 

In the second picture I had been playing with shims and levels to see if things would change if i adjusted the coil springs.  You can see in the background how the drivers side is raised.  Its not even contacting the cribbing. 

Thanks Dave,  It appears that all my measurements for square are +- within dimension.  The measurement that is not included in the diagram is the floor to the top of the rear sub frame mount.  One would assume that they should be the same height across both subframe rails so that's why it is not needed in the diagram. 

From the concrete floor to the top of the passenger side rear subframe mount I have  12". The drivers side is 12 3/4inches.  So it raises the drivers side rear by 3/4 inch and lowers the passenger side rear by 3/4 inch.  If it was not noticeable i would not care but you can see it leaning.

Logically I just threw 3/4 worth of shims under the passenger side subframe mount area thinking it would fix the problem.  It had little to no affect. It just filled in the gap created by the other side between the subframe and the floor board. 

The whole front of the subframe is level and sqaure.  If I jack up the front passenger side radiator mount area I can make the car dead level in the rear but it would throw all the front sheet metal out of alignment.  As the car sits now it is dead level in the front.

Might be able to create a jig on a welding table and use a porta power to pull it down?

I am going to try a few more body shops to see if they will take a look at it. 

Hi All,  My subframe appears to be bent?? With the subframe attached my car would lean to the passenger side. From Ground to fender lip the Drivers side is a 3/4 higher.  I ended up replacing the rear suspension first.  Did not help.  Checked tire pressure in all tires multiple times, no help.  Took the Sub frame back off and replaced all the frame mount bushings/hardware with new ones,  no help. Replaced all the upper and lower a- arms and springs/ shocks,  No help. 

So i took the subframe back off the car today and did some measuring.  With the Subframe rear mount locations on cribbing and the wheels and tires on the ground the front of the subframe where the radiator would mount is level. 

Where the subframe mounts to the firewall,  the mount pads are level. 

The rear mounts on the subframe, when I placed a level across are 3/4 inch higher on the drivers side.

When attached to the body it cause the drivers side to be  3/4 inch higher than the passenger side. 


1. My question is should the passenger side subframe rail be 3/4 higher or should the drivers side subframe rail be 3/4 lower.

2.  How should i go about fixing this issue?  I don't want to mess up the rest of the subframe because it is level. 


Body shop was a no go. 

Thanks,  Jon

Thanks Boomer,  I see what you mean by the parting lines and casting flash. I compared it to the repo's and now I see the differences.  Thought maybe they came off another GM car but I could not find any examples.  My disk brake brackets and shields still have the numbers on them but they look like they were repainted.  Not sure if they are real.  The spindles have numbers but they are not very legible.  The car spent most of its life in the South 1969-1971 Alabama,  New Orleans 1971 - 2009.  Its amazing how bad these parts can get even living in the Deep South there whole life.  Thanks again,  Jon 

Hi all,  I have some steering arms that I assumed were original from my 1969 Z28.  However i cannot read the part numbers that are left on either arm.  One is stamped HR? and TK?  Was there other GM cars that came with factory short steering arms?  I could not find a conversation about the marks on my arms.  Are these aftermarket?  I did see some repo's from CPP thought maybe these were repos.  I did media blast them this morning.  See picture.  Thanks

Hi Hans,  yeah we did 70% Flat and 30% semi gloss.  Seems to look close to original.  I have painted off road vehicle's with the Defleet line and it seems to hold up pretty well. For the price I figured that the firewall and undercarriage, inner fenders could could help me save some money towards buying base/clear for the rest of the body.  Jon