Messages

Thanks Joe, I did not know that about the triangles. I did read the information that is in CRG about the hoods. I was not sure if this design would have been first or second and what the cut off date may have been. Now that you have helped me identify that it is 1st design, I wonder if my 05a z28 is too late for the 1st design? I'm never quite sure if may build is considered early or late? Seems like a lot of changes occurred in the April, May builds. My car is a Norwood built Z28 x77. No tach, console but no gauges, factory installed spoiler, air dam. That's it. Very basic z. Yes, I like the flat hood. Thanks for the help.

Here are some more pictures when I pulled the hood out of storage. I have an aftermarket cowl hood. I want to go back to the flat hood.

If it was light enough, you may have already sanded it off. One of my original hoods has the stamp on that lower edge that you still have paint on. Almost looks like a "1" showing through when I enlarged the picture.....Joe

Thanks Joe, I will post some more pictures. Maybe there are some details on the hood that would help date it. My car is an 05a 1969

Looks original to me.
[/quote

Thank You Kevin

I always assumed this hood was original. However I recently removed the paint from the drivers side corner and can't seem to find a week stamp. Is there any other location that this stamp may have been placed? Thanks

Hi Vetteskip,  I found some markings on the underside of my spoiler.  05 Norwood Built X77 1969 Z28.  Maybe a D  then a squiggle mark then 9A  or 9N ?

Little hard to read in the picture. 

Jon

Hi David, I went through this process this past summer.  I will preface it by saying I am not sure it is advisable in most states but it worked for me and I did not get sick. I put my car up in the air and used a combination of a heat gun,  shop towels and GOO Be Gone.  I sprayed Goo in a spot then heated with heat gun. Used a plastic scraper and shop towels.  Took it right down to the original color underneath quickly.  A propane torch works better but it will give off a lot of fumes and the goo be gone is flammable. I would stick with a heat gun. Took me a 8 hour day to get the underneath stripped clean of undercoating. The dry ice works will inside the car on the floor.  I tried all sorts of other chemicals like Big Orange, ZEP products, all natural organic stuff made of orange peels or what ever,  Etc.  Nothing came close to GOO Be Gone and a heat gun.  Jon

Hi,  in the process of stripping the paint off my rear Spoiler I found some markings.  When I lightly sanded off the paint from a 1977 repaint I noticed the markings.  It appears to be a Squiggly line and underneath is maybe " D,O,5 or S, ?, ? then 9N " you can make out the 9N in the pictures. 

I tried to look through the forum for some other examples of these markings and how they were used on the assembly line but i did not see any Spoiler examples.  Just curious

Jon

Some of the newer strippers are junk. They reformulated the Klean Strip brand to a better aggressive version and it was great like the old stuff. Then certain states like CT stopped selling it. And this is at a jobber where shops like myself buy it. Someone I know got another brand at HD that worked well but I don't recall the name. I may have been Rustoleum's new formula which I've tried and it was "OK". It shouln't hurt the 'glass like it can to bumper covers which hobby people rarely have to contend with. Common sense dictates to try it first. It helps if you abrade the paint with coarse grit before application. Disappointing strippers are no fun.

Hi Sauron,  I went with Uscrichter's suggestion and the Aircraft Stripper did not do much to the bottom of the spoiler.  So now I think I will try hitting it with a coarse grit and then a coat of stripper.  I tried messaging you on a paint question but it does not appear my question sent?  I will try messaging you again for your advice.  Thanks , Jon

Hi, Thanks for the response.  You are right I used Aircraft stripper back in the 80's and it was strong.  The fumes would take the paint off.  I was leary to use it on the Fiber Glass spoiler,  thinking it would melt it.  I went and bought some new aircraft stripper and tried it on a old  fender.  You are right it is not near as strong.  I may try on the underside of the spolier and see what happens.  Thanks for the advice,  Jon

Hi all,  I need to strip the paint of my rear spoiler.  My understanding is that it is made of SMC Fiberglass (Sheet Molded Compound). What is the best way to remove the paint?

Thanks,  Jon

Sauron,  i was trying to figure out the 5 - 1/2 measurement you referenced.  When Dave sent me the links I only clicked on the David Pozzi link.  It only showed me Horizontal dimensions.  Had I clicked on the other link I would have seen Vertical and Horizontal. I guess its been a long day.  Ugh 

The sub frame measurements can be found here:
http://www.pozziracing.com/Media/F_gen_Firebird_sub.jpg

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50407

Thanks Dave,  I just clicked on the David Pozzi link.  So it only showed me Horizontal.  Sauron, replied to me about the Vertical.  I went back and clicked on the other link and that's what i was looking for. 

Thanks Sauron,  I just looked up anchor pot,  had never heard of one.  I going to try and find some tomorrow.  That's definitely something I need in my building.  I am trying to come up with a way to use a block and jack or my Porta power. 

Jon

Hi Dave here are some picture that may help explain. 

In the second picture I had been playing with shims and levels to see if things would change if i adjusted the coil springs.  You can see in the background how the drivers side is raised.  Its not even contacting the cribbing.