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Author Topic: Chassis rust converter  (Read 938 times)
jvb6648
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« on: July 01, 2012, 05:24:58 PM »

I'm thinking of using Eastwoods Chassis Rust Converter, Encapsulator and paint. Any pros, cons and or suggestions?
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Jim
68 Z/28
Mike S
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« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2012, 05:28:59 PM »

 What conditions are you starting with?

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Restored
jvb6648
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« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2012, 07:11:31 PM »

Sub frame is off, stripped down, pressure washed and has light surface rust. A wire brush will take that off.
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Jim
68 Z/28
68camaroz28
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« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2012, 07:54:54 PM »

Sub frame is off, stripped down, pressure washed and has light surface rust. A wire brush will take that off.
Are you restoring the car or cleaning things up for a great driver? On our (restoration) the sub-frame was media blasted and epoxy primed along with some minor rust pit repair on the right side (where battery is located). The media blast really assist with giving the paint grip and a good expoxy primer supplies the needed base. Also, probably typing in Eastwoods Chassis Rust Converter in the search icon will give some references to how it worked. I will only state since you have your sub-frame off, strive to do it the best possible way.
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Chick
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Sauron327
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« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2012, 08:11:33 PM »

Blast the frame, epoxy and topcoat it. Those converters and encapsulators are potions and not the correct way to do the job. If it's only surface rust, phosporic acid will take care of that. But you have to read the TDS for the epoxy because not all epoxies are compatible with acids. And if they are, the acid must be thoroughly neutralized.
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jvb6648
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« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2012, 08:32:52 PM »

The car is as the picture shows. It needed more than I thought so it'll have to be the best restored driver I can make it on a tight budget. I'll do the search and see what turns up. Thanks
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Jim
68 Z/28
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