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Author Topic: HEI distributor  (Read 3257 times)
LILT
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« on: April 26, 2012, 05:17:45 PM »

I want to convert 69 with 307 2bl to HEI pointless system the unit I am looking at looks easy to install the instructions say you have to remove the ballast resistor so the unit gets 12 volts. It comes with a built in coil is anything else I may have to do? Or may need.
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rich69rs
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« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2012, 05:55:15 PM »

Suggest reading the following:

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8140.0

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=3143.0

As JohnZ states in one of the posts from the second link, if you install the Pertronix module in your distributor and also install a Pertronix flame thrower coil, the Pertronix flame thrower coil is designed to be supplied with a full 12 volts.  

When I made the conversion on my 69RS and 66 Chevelle back in 2008, I installed the Pertronix flame thrower coil as a part of the upgrade but I did not remove the ballast wire - I went ahead and used it.  Yes the voltage to the coil is reduced instead of being a full 12 volts, but for the way I drive (local cruisin', etc.) high rpm's is not an issue and the system has worked just fine using the original ballast wire supplying the coil given my driving conditions.  

If you're pushing your ride to higher rpm's, etc, JohnZ's advice should be followed; i.e. feed the flame thrower coil with a switched 12v source.  If you will read all the way through both of these posts, I believe you'll find the info. you are searching for.

Bottom line:
If you upgrade the distributor but leave the stock coil in place, use the ballast wire
If your upgrade includes the flame thrower coil  - recommended to supply the coil with a switched 12v source and omit the ballast wire.  However, if your upgrade includes the flame thrower coil and you leave the ballast wire in place, you probably won't notice any difference under normal driving (crusing) conditions.

Another way to look at it - try it with the ballast wire still in place and see what you think.  You can always  go to a switched 12v source later.
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Richard Thomas
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JohnZ
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« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2012, 10:35:26 AM »

I want to convert 69 with 307 2bl to HEI pointless system the unit I am looking at looks easy to install the instructions say you have to remove the ballast resistor so the unit gets 12 volts. It comes with a built in coil is anything else I may have to do? Or may need.

Note that installing an HEI distributor and installing a Pertronix conversion in a points distributor are two completely different animals; if you're installing an HEI distributor (large cap, integral coil), you MUST supply a full 12 volts to the "BAT" terminal on the cap, which requires running a 12-ga. feed wire from the terminal in the fuse block cavity marked "IGN" to the distributor. You may also have a situation where the HEI distributor won't fit due to interference with the firewall, requiring some hammer work; sometimes clearance exists, sometimes it doesn't.
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'69 Z/28
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sdkar
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« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2012, 08:48:08 PM »

I have used both the Crane XRi and the Pertronix offerings and they are quite easy to install and both work excellent.  The upgrade cost less than $100 for the kit and new coil and you will notice a huge difference when completed.
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hotrod68
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« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2013, 03:56:10 AM »

HEI usually requires hammering the firewall. A stock HEI is virtually useless if you spin the engine over 7000 anyway. The spark scattter and cross-induction the HEI is supposed to fix is irrelevant because it's so rpm limited in stock form. Plus........there is the factory resistance wire issue. I'd go Pertronix conversion hands-down. It looks stock, doesn't require beating up the firewall, and if you ever have to remove the distributor it doesn't take Houdini to get the thing out of the engine. Just my thoughts and good luck!
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
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Stingr69
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« Reply #5 on: June 07, 2013, 04:41:20 AM »

I left the points in and added a remote Crane multispark CD box. The points electrical contact surface never wears out because they are only used for low voltage switching. No dwell to worry about either. As long as they open and close, the sparks happen. No special coil, condenser is gone. Looks factory and has an adjustable rev limiter. Good for reduced RPM "valet mode" if you ever have to have work done on the car by someone else and have to leave it with them.

Just another way to do it. Smiley

-Mark.
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69Z28
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« Reply #6 on: June 07, 2013, 09:21:39 AM »

Something else to consider is a Dave's Small Body HEI. Dave did one to specs by a lot of these guys here on CRG and Team Camaro for my 302 and it works just fine. Thanks Mark, Stingr69, it's been years since you told me what specs to use and all is well. He rebuilt my 480 points distributor too 2 summers ago, but haven't used it yet. I take it with me in case the HEI one craps out on me if I'm way away from my house.


Hey Mark I was toying with the idea of a rev limiter. I was wondering if anyone else has done this and what they use.
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GaryC

'UNRESTORED' 1969 Cortez Silver X33D80 Z28
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« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2013, 02:23:40 PM »

I have used a factory HEI in a Factory 68 BB WITHOUT ANY space issues, at high RPM's, I don't know what models they don't fit, I have been told the same thing by people that "heard it from a friend". That same HEI is now in my 65 GMC
 (350/350) without any problems or issues.
   Victor
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69Z28
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« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2013, 04:57:27 PM »

I have read where some people have to clearance and some do not. Is it possible the frame mounts have something to do with the engine being more forward and more to the back?
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GaryC

'UNRESTORED' 1969 Cortez Silver X33D80 Z28
janobyte
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« Reply #9 on: June 07, 2013, 10:16:16 PM »

6 of 1 , 1/2 doz of another.

Ran a Mallory rev limiting tac for years with no issues (still have) has a shift light also.  

For his application sounds like the HEI would provide plenty of spark ( low compression/HP engine) and I don't think he's spinning the 307 over 6500. Plus they are dirt cheap.
Aside from Day 2, resto etc.. a serious engine cant go wrong with a MSD set up .

All being said throw a Pentrox in it if you want it to look stock. Still might be more ignition than really needed.

Clearance I don't know, use to be the set up, plenty of guys ran them, don't know if you had to beat the firewall or not ,I ran a Unilite.

 On a side note I had a 79 short bed with a 2.02/327 10.5/1 comp. engine years ago fired by an Accel dual point. Put a junk yard HEI in it with a fresh coil ( also the intake off my Z). Ran very strong !
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janobyte
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« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2013, 10:35:12 PM »

Off the thread but remember when you can get parts from the junkyard ! Paid 50 bucks for a 350 trans out of a wrecked Monte Carlo, 45 for a Fairbanks full manual valve body and traded a guy a used pressure plate/clutch to build it. Still got that trans tucked away on a pallet. Also picked over a wrecked 67 ss---- time flys.
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mikefam
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« Reply #11 on: June 09, 2013, 07:45:06 AM »

I contacted Pertronix about the proper voltage to supply their electronic ignition pickup and they responded that you should use a ballast resistor on initial setup but there may be problems with this in some cars. Some systems are hard starting or don't start at all due to a voltage drop when spinning starter motor. The current drawn by the starter can be so great that the voltage to the ignition drops too low to work properly. In this case they advise that you supply a full 12vdc to the ignition.

Mike.
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68 Convertible w/327 275hp donor engine from a 67 Impala and TH350
jeff68
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« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2013, 11:36:19 AM »

While people are talking about other options besides HEI:  If you want to look stock, remember that the Pertronix may fit under the cap, but it has an extra wire running to the coil and doesn't look completely stock.  I removed the Pertronix and installed a Breakerless SE utilizing the original coil wire.  You can not tell it's there unless you pull the cap.
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
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