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Author Topic: Help and advice prior to purchase?  (Read 13563 times)
IZRSSS
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« Reply #15 on: December 24, 2011, 04:14:52 PM »

Be sure to take a source of artificial light (flash light or drop cord). The engine pad is difficult to photograph with all the stuff in the way and an artificial light source at just the right angle will help. Hopefully the owner will let you remove the generator & bracket. The idea is to get as clear a pic of the PAD as possible.

As for the Tranny & Axle. You will probably need to jack the car up. Again, artificial light at just the right angle will help.


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IZRSSS
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« Reply #16 on: December 24, 2011, 04:16:21 PM »

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mickeystoys69RSSS
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« Reply #17 on: December 25, 2011, 10:54:33 AM »

Thanks Marty. I have been reading through all of the CRG research pages the last couple of days.

The car is for sale by a dealer/consignor so I am hoping that they will have a lift and have it up for me to inspect. I will take a flash light and some rags with me. Also I am looking for the VIN to be stamped on the engine, trans, and rear axle to indicate a numbers matching car correct? This is a Norwood car, but it is about two weeks before the x codes were used and there is no paper work. So my understanding to KNOW that it is a real SS is for the numbers to match with the BBC in it. The drivetrain numbers matching the VIN is my only real concern at this time and the general condition of the car instead of just looking at pictures so far.

Assuming it is correct until I can go see it in person the next couple of days and verify, what is your opinion of the general condition of the car, would you buy it, and a general range of values you would expect to pay for this car. Since I have never owned one of the cars before, please comment or give your opinion. Any help you give is much appreciated.
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Sauron327
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« Reply #18 on: December 25, 2011, 11:24:52 AM »

If you don't have professional bodywork experience, bring someone who does and who also knows restoration work.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #19 on: December 25, 2011, 01:08:27 PM »

Also I am looking for the VIN to be stamped on the engine, trans, and rear axle to indicate a numbers matching car correct? Yes, for the exception of the rear axle. What you are looking for is your cars partial VIN #’s on the engine and trans. Example; my cars VIN # is 124379L512040. So, if you look at my engine and transmission stamps the partial VIN #’s are 9L512040 which are stamped on both. Most important here…I want to see the engine pad! I want to know if it’s been decked and re-stamped to match the cars VIN. So its essential that you get a good pic of the pad. We can give you that information here.

As for the rear axle, there isn’t a partial VIN but the numbers/letters will tell you several things. Axle Ratio, 12/10 bolt, place of manufacture, and most important, when it was manufactured. This will give you clues as to whether or not it is a born with rear end.

This is a Norwood car, but it is about two weeks before the x codes were used and there is no paper work. So my understanding to KNOW that it is a real SS is for the numbers to match with the BBC in it. Yes on the X-code and no on the SS. There are several clues on the body/frame that will tell you if the car is an SS. The drivetrain numbers matching the VIN is my only real concern at this time and the general condition of the car instead of just looking at pictures so far.

Assuming it is correct until I can go see it in person the next couple of days and verify, what is your opinion of the general condition of the car, would you buy it, No I wouldn’t buy it. Not based on photographs alone. I would be doing the same exact thing I am asking you to do. I want to touch it, feel it, and verify the numbers first hand. Then once all the numbers have been verified, I would hire someone like Jerry to give his final blessings on the car. I am not qualified to give you an appraisal but he certainly is. and a general range of values you would expect to pay for this car. Since I have never owned one of the cars before, please comment or give your opinion. Any help you give is much appreciated.


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JWD
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« Reply #20 on: December 25, 2011, 02:36:15 PM »

Be sure to take a source of artificial light (flash light or drop cord). The engine pad is difficult to photograph with all the stuff in the way and an artificial light source at just the right angle will help. Hopefully the owner will let you remove the generator & bracket. The idea is to get as clear a pic of the PAD as possible.

As for the Tranny & Axle. You will probably need to jack the car up. Again, artificial light at just the right angle will help.




Also, bring some lacquer thinner and a rag. The engine pad MUST be free of paint in order to give opinions on originality.

Jim
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Sauron327
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« Reply #21 on: December 25, 2011, 05:18:00 PM »

Before you pay someone to inspect the car, see if you can find a person who knows these cars that will give it a preliminary look. Then fork over cash to someone else if you choose. There are people in this hobby who have owned, built and scrapped countless of them over the decades.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #22 on: December 25, 2011, 08:44:37 PM »

Here it is Rick. If you can't make it out let me know and I'll locate a pic that works better on this site.
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Hot302
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« Reply #23 on: December 25, 2011, 09:08:06 PM »

Very cool Marty. Mine is a 12B and the assembly plant is VN on the tag. Somewhere in between yours and mine they changed from (LOS) to (VN). Also I have a  (- B) paint code.
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Rick
69 RS/Z28
No Stripes
IZRSSS
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« Reply #24 on: December 25, 2011, 09:14:45 PM »

I think I remember your car. IIRC, The dash/special paint code was due to the stripe delete.

Looking forward to seeing your VIN and discussing the cars off line.

Thanx
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mickeystoys69RSSS
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« Reply #25 on: December 26, 2011, 04:59:49 PM »

I went to see the car today and the numbers check out. I could not see the VIN on the trans because it was too tight to get where I could see it but it had the orginal yellow tag for TH400s. From the looks on the underside of the car it has not been removed. The engine is orginial and the hidden vin on the stamp pad confirm it. I was also able to locate the hidden vin in the cowl area and the rear axle information.

Hidden Cowl VIN 9N547348

Engine stamp pad T082IJI with VIN 19N547348. I know the photo is fuzzy, but I posted it to show that it has not been tampered with and I saw in person the whole number matching the VIN.

The yellow trans tag shows CE (which is correct for an L34 engine) 69 316 then below on the same tag CE-69-2442

The rear axle code shows BI 1115G1 2.73 ratio 12 bolt non posi. So I am confident that it is authentic. I know the photos are fuzzy but I posted it just to show that it has not been tampered with.
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mickeystoys69RSSS
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« Reply #26 on: December 26, 2011, 05:07:30 PM »

Trans tag and rear axle
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mickeystoys69RSSS
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« Reply #27 on: December 26, 2011, 05:27:27 PM »

Before you pay someone to inspect the car, see if you can find a person who knows these cars that will give it a preliminary look. Then fork over cash to someone else if you choose. There are people in this hobby who have owned, built and scrapped countless of them over the decades.

Do you know of anyone in FL?
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tmodel66
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« Reply #28 on: December 26, 2011, 05:33:54 PM »

Engine pic is useless. Can't tell if it's been decked or restamped.
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
IZRSSS
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« Reply #29 on: December 26, 2011, 06:56:19 PM »

Mickey – with regards to your engine pic I’d have to agree with Daniel. There is no way we can help you unless we get a clear pic of the pad… at least as good as the example I gave. At any rate, all the numbers seem to jive. The axle code and cowl tag indicate the rear and body were built Nov. 68. You also tied the partial VIN to the Cowl panel (nice job). In addition, if the engine pad/numbers hold up, it too looks great…Aug. 21 build on it.
 
As far as I can tell the TH400 looks promising as well. Just need a date?

Sure hope it all pans out. That is one heck of a car. Only ~2000 ’69 L34’s built!

Engine:  T 08 21 JI  
            T= Tonawanda Engine Plant                                
       0821= Aug 21
           JI= L34

Axle: BI 11 15 G 1
       BI= 2.73 Ratio
   1115=  Nov. 15
        G= Detroit Gear & Axle Plant
        1=  Shift 1

KIM...I can't read any of the numbers except for the VIN and Cowl Tag. So I'm going by what you've printed.                                                                                             
                                                                                              
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