CRG Discussion Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
December 19, 2014, 04:43:45 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
Welcome to the CRG Discussion Forum!
Forum registration problems: Make sure you enter your email correctly and you check your spam box first. *Then* email KurtS2@gmail for help.
107534 Posts in 12507 Topics by 4812 Members
Latest Member: oldbop88
* Home Help Search Login Register
+  CRG Discussion Forum
|-+  Camaro Research Group Discussion
| |-+  General Discussion
| | |-+  Help and advice prior to purchase?
« previous next »
Pages: 1 2 3 ... 7 [All] Print
Author Topic: Help and advice prior to purchase?  (Read 14741 times)
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« on: December 22, 2011, 07:06:19 PM »

I am seriously considering the purchase of a 69 RS/SS. The car is in FL and the seller claims that it is an all numbers matching car and complete Restoration was recently done. Is there any assistance available from the experts here to help inspect the car and verify the authenticity, correctness and possibly an appraisal? I have not been able find where I can contact some of the CRG members to at least ask if they would be willing to help.

I know there are inspection and appraisal companies out there, but I do not know how well they know these cars specifically.



Logged
1968RSZ28
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 4859



View Profile
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2011, 07:17:09 PM »

Here's your man...  http://www.z28camaro.com/consvcs.html

Paul
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2011, 07:32:22 PM »

Thanks that is the exact person I was thinking of. I just was not sure if he offered that type of service. I will give him a call.
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2011, 07:34:23 PM »

I second Paul’s recommendation! It doesn't get any better than that!

In the mean time there are many experts on this site who would be more than willing to lend a hand. To begin with, simply ask the seller to send you pics of the VIN, Cowl Tag, and Engine pad. If all these check out, move onto the Transmission and Rear Axle numbers.
 
If you need help posting the pics send me a PM and I'll be happy to help you out.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2011, 01:35:35 PM »

Thanks I have a photo of the VIN tag and Cowl tag. I just need to verify the drivetrain castings, numbers and options. I am planning to go see it sometime this coming week when I have time.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2011, 02:02:40 PM »

The VIN and Cowl tag are attached to evaluate. I have also downloaded some additioanl photos of the car from the ad listing. Please tell me what you experts think.  I already know that the A/C is aftermarket and that the bottom of the hockey stripe is a little too long indicating a resortation or repaint, and the added arm rest over the console. Other than that I am not sure, but I would like to know both what the car is and is not before I decide to purchase it. Either way it is a really nice car that I would not mind owning.


Mickey
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2011, 02:10:48 PM »

Engine photos and shifter
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2011, 02:13:25 PM »

Interior
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2011, 02:14:22 PM »

Trunk
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2011, 02:20:31 PM »

Mickey - Not an expert here but I think I can help you out with the D90 Stripe. If you read this thread it isn't at all unusual for the leading edge of the stripe to extend onto the fender extension on early built 69's like yours. However, it is difficult to tell by the pic if the stripe was reapplied.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8820.0

Also, the Cowl Tag & Vin are great! And, the experts can better assist you if you have the numbers/pics mentioned in reply #3...especially the engine pad!
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #10 on: December 24, 2011, 02:32:11 PM »

Hood and exterior
Logged
ggtsvnv
Member
***
Posts: 142


View Profile
« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2011, 02:58:15 PM »

I can say anything about being real or not; but that is a nice car, love the color combo, hope it works out for you.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #12 on: December 24, 2011, 03:08:53 PM »

Thanks, I like it too, but the seller has made some claims that I am not sure about that I would like to have verified before paying for a car that is priced for what it is claimed to be and not what it is. Not sure if that is true yet or not. Even if it is not I am still interested because of the color combination and how well it is presented but the price would be Significantlyless.
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #13 on: December 24, 2011, 03:10:26 PM »

VIN & C-Tag look good.

729..............Ivory Hounds Tooth
57................Fathum Green
E..................Parchment V-Top
11c...............Built 3rd Wk of Nov. 68
No X Code.....Didn't happen at Norwood until second wk of December 68.

So far so good. Just need the partial vin stuff mentioned above to check against your VIN...Engine Pad and Transmission stamps.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #14 on: December 24, 2011, 03:27:40 PM »

Exactly.  It is about an hour and a half from me. They are closed for the holiday so I am hoping to get there Monday or Tuesday. Thanks for the help.
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #15 on: December 24, 2011, 04:14:52 PM »

Be sure to take a source of artificial light (flash light or drop cord). The engine pad is difficult to photograph with all the stuff in the way and an artificial light source at just the right angle will help. Hopefully the owner will let you remove the generator & bracket. The idea is to get as clear a pic of the PAD as possible.

As for the Tranny & Axle. You will probably need to jack the car up. Again, artificial light at just the right angle will help.


Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #16 on: December 24, 2011, 04:16:21 PM »

...
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #17 on: December 25, 2011, 10:54:33 AM »

Thanks Marty. I have been reading through all of the CRG research pages the last couple of days.

The car is for sale by a dealer/consignor so I am hoping that they will have a lift and have it up for me to inspect. I will take a flash light and some rags with me. Also I am looking for the VIN to be stamped on the engine, trans, and rear axle to indicate a numbers matching car correct? This is a Norwood car, but it is about two weeks before the x codes were used and there is no paper work. So my understanding to KNOW that it is a real SS is for the numbers to match with the BBC in it. The drivetrain numbers matching the VIN is my only real concern at this time and the general condition of the car instead of just looking at pictures so far.

Assuming it is correct until I can go see it in person the next couple of days and verify, what is your opinion of the general condition of the car, would you buy it, and a general range of values you would expect to pay for this car. Since I have never owned one of the cars before, please comment or give your opinion. Any help you give is much appreciated.
Logged
Sauron327
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 871



View Profile
« Reply #18 on: December 25, 2011, 11:24:52 AM »

If you don't have professional bodywork experience, bring someone who does and who also knows restoration work.
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #19 on: December 25, 2011, 01:08:27 PM »

Also I am looking for the VIN to be stamped on the engine, trans, and rear axle to indicate a numbers matching car correct? Yes, for the exception of the rear axle. What you are looking for is your cars partial VIN #’s on the engine and trans. Example; my cars VIN # is 124379L512040. So, if you look at my engine and transmission stamps the partial VIN #’s are 9L512040 which are stamped on both. Most important here…I want to see the engine pad! I want to know if it’s been decked and re-stamped to match the cars VIN. So its essential that you get a good pic of the pad. We can give you that information here.

As for the rear axle, there isn’t a partial VIN but the numbers/letters will tell you several things. Axle Ratio, 12/10 bolt, place of manufacture, and most important, when it was manufactured. This will give you clues as to whether or not it is a born with rear end.

This is a Norwood car, but it is about two weeks before the x codes were used and there is no paper work. So my understanding to KNOW that it is a real SS is for the numbers to match with the BBC in it. Yes on the X-code and no on the SS. There are several clues on the body/frame that will tell you if the car is an SS. The drivetrain numbers matching the VIN is my only real concern at this time and the general condition of the car instead of just looking at pictures so far.

Assuming it is correct until I can go see it in person the next couple of days and verify, what is your opinion of the general condition of the car, would you buy it, No I wouldn’t buy it. Not based on photographs alone. I would be doing the same exact thing I am asking you to do. I want to touch it, feel it, and verify the numbers first hand. Then once all the numbers have been verified, I would hire someone like Jerry to give his final blessings on the car. I am not qualified to give you an appraisal but he certainly is. and a general range of values you would expect to pay for this car. Since I have never owned one of the cars before, please comment or give your opinion. Any help you give is much appreciated.


Logged
JWD
Newbie
*
Posts: 11


View Profile Email
« Reply #20 on: December 25, 2011, 02:36:15 PM »

Be sure to take a source of artificial light (flash light or drop cord). The engine pad is difficult to photograph with all the stuff in the way and an artificial light source at just the right angle will help. Hopefully the owner will let you remove the generator & bracket. The idea is to get as clear a pic of the PAD as possible.

As for the Tranny & Axle. You will probably need to jack the car up. Again, artificial light at just the right angle will help.




Also, bring some lacquer thinner and a rag. The engine pad MUST be free of paint in order to give opinions on originality.

Jim
Logged
Sauron327
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 871



View Profile
« Reply #21 on: December 25, 2011, 05:18:00 PM »

Before you pay someone to inspect the car, see if you can find a person who knows these cars that will give it a preliminary look. Then fork over cash to someone else if you choose. There are people in this hobby who have owned, built and scrapped countless of them over the decades.
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #22 on: December 25, 2011, 08:44:37 PM »

Here it is Rick. If you can't make it out let me know and I'll locate a pic that works better on this site.
Logged
Hot302
Member
***
Posts: 353



View Profile
« Reply #23 on: December 25, 2011, 09:08:06 PM »

Very cool Marty. Mine is a 12B and the assembly plant is VN on the tag. Somewhere in between yours and mine they changed from (LOS) to (VN). Also I have a  (- B) paint code.
Logged

Rick
69 RS/Z28
No Stripes
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #24 on: December 25, 2011, 09:14:45 PM »

I think I remember your car. IIRC, The dash/special paint code was due to the stripe delete.

Looking forward to seeing your VIN and discussing the cars off line.

Thanx
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #25 on: December 26, 2011, 04:59:49 PM »

I went to see the car today and the numbers check out. I could not see the VIN on the trans because it was too tight to get where I could see it but it had the orginal yellow tag for TH400s. From the looks on the underside of the car it has not been removed. The engine is orginial and the hidden vin on the stamp pad confirm it. I was also able to locate the hidden vin in the cowl area and the rear axle information.

Hidden Cowl VIN 9N547348

Engine stamp pad T082IJI with VIN 19N547348. I know the photo is fuzzy, but I posted it to show that it has not been tampered with and I saw in person the whole number matching the VIN.

The yellow trans tag shows CE (which is correct for an L34 engine) 69 316 then below on the same tag CE-69-2442

The rear axle code shows BI 1115G1 2.73 ratio 12 bolt non posi. So I am confident that it is authentic. I know the photos are fuzzy but I posted it just to show that it has not been tampered with.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #26 on: December 26, 2011, 05:07:30 PM »

Trans tag and rear axle
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #27 on: December 26, 2011, 05:27:27 PM »

Before you pay someone to inspect the car, see if you can find a person who knows these cars that will give it a preliminary look. Then fork over cash to someone else if you choose. There are people in this hobby who have owned, built and scrapped countless of them over the decades.

Do you know of anyone in FL?
Logged
tmodel66
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1212


View Profile Email
« Reply #28 on: December 26, 2011, 05:33:54 PM »

Engine pic is useless. Can't tell if it's been decked or restamped.
Logged

Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #29 on: December 26, 2011, 06:56:19 PM »

Mickey – with regards to your engine pic I’d have to agree with Daniel. There is no way we can help you unless we get a clear pic of the pad… at least as good as the example I gave. At any rate, all the numbers seem to jive. The axle code and cowl tag indicate the rear and body were built Nov. 68. You also tied the partial VIN to the Cowl panel (nice job). In addition, if the engine pad/numbers hold up, it too looks great…Aug. 21 build on it.
 
As far as I can tell the TH400 looks promising as well. Just need a date?

Sure hope it all pans out. That is one heck of a car. Only ~2000 ’69 L34’s built!

Engine:  T 08 21 JI  
            T= Tonawanda Engine Plant                                
       0821= Aug 21
           JI= L34

Axle: BI 11 15 G 1
       BI= 2.73 Ratio
   1115=  Nov. 15
        G= Detroit Gear & Axle Plant
        1=  Shift 1

KIM...I can't read any of the numbers except for the VIN and Cowl Tag. So I'm going by what you've printed.                                                                                             
                                                                                              
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #30 on: December 26, 2011, 07:24:01 PM »

Thanks Marty.

I don't know what happened in the photos. Not sure if it was my LED flash light or the camera being too close to focus, or both. But like I said in person the numbers matched and looked exactly like yours. I feel confident that the car is authentic numbers wise. At least I do not think that issue is in question.

However, after having the opportunity to see the car on a lift and then drive. I am wondering if the car is going to need some mechanical work in the near future. The underside of the car had 40+ years of oil, grease, and road grime with oil leaking down the back side of the pan. This would indicate to me at least a tear down of the engine to the short block for full gasket replacements. During the test drive (It did run and drive) but it felt sluggish and loose. When I got into the go pedal it bogged and just did not pull at all again indicating a need of an engine rebuild. I did not have the tools to do a compression test and or leak down. As for the loose part either the steering needs to be adjusted or rebuilt or it is time for new ball joints, shocks, springs etc.. Still not a deal killer but the seller is asking in what my opinion would be a car that needs no work at all.

Maybe I could ask the consignor if they could get a better picture? Anyway like I said earlier in person the engine pad looks good so at least I am 99% confident that the car is authentic just in need of some TLC under the hood. With that information in mind, what would be your opinion on the value of the car? I am trying to decide where it is priced.

Like I said earlier is there anyone in FL that would be interested in checking it out it would be a great help.

Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #31 on: December 26, 2011, 07:30:04 PM »

PS I thought you guys might get a laugh at me trying to photograph the VIN location on the TH400 with the car on a lift.  Grin I had the camera all the way on the bottom side of the floor pan looking down on the top of the trans pan mounting flange trying to get the camera far enough away to focus.
« Last Edit: December 26, 2011, 08:02:15 PM by mickeystoys69RSSS » Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #32 on: December 26, 2011, 07:35:40 PM »


As far as I can tell the TH400 looks promising as well. Just need a date?


Sure hope it all pans out. That is one heck of a car. Only ~2000 ’69 L34’s built!

Engine:  T 08 21 JI 
            T= Tonawanda Engine Plant                               
       0821= Aug 21
           JI= L34

Axle: BI 11 15 G 1
       BI= 2.73 Ratio
   1115=  Nov. 15
        G= Detroit Gear & Axle Plant
        1=  Shift 1

That is the same info that I got. I was hoping for a lower gear ratio with posi, but it is what it is.                                                                                             
                                                                                               

My understanding based on the information in the CRG is the 69 and 316 on the trans tag is a Julian calendar date. I do not know what this means, maybe some here can decode that for me?


One of 2000 Hmmmm maybe I should just go get it now Smiley

Engine and axle number are the same as I got. The I in front of the JI threw me at first until I read that the date codes used I and 1 interchangably.
« Last Edit: December 26, 2011, 08:01:22 PM by mickeystoys69RSSS » Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #33 on: December 26, 2011, 08:26:10 PM »

Mickey – If this is a true L34, 40+ year old hiccups are exactly that…hiccups. Some people would give their left you know what to have that problem…an engine in a car like that, that hasn’t been fooled with. On the other hand, if it’s a clone or a mod, then you have every right to question mechanical issues.

I will help you out as much as I can with my opinion on the numbers. But in order to do so, I need something to go on. Sorry…but none of your pics helped. Don’t feel bad though, it took me 45 to 50 pics until I finally got what I needed from my own engine pad & tranny. It would help if you can download your pics on the spot to see how you did. I wasn’t kidding when I said you need to jack the car up and play with the light. If this isn’t possible, then simply do what Sauron327 suggested and hire someone to give you a priliminary evaluation. I was hoping the car was in CRG’s data base. If it is, I think someone would have already mentioned it and you would have known first hand if there were any issues with the car.

Sorry, price is something I stay away from. Once the preliminary evaluation has been done, turn it over to someone like Jerry M. This can save you tons of heart aches. Jerry can tell you what the car is worth in its present condition and what it would be worth if it’s completely refurbished. And, more importantly, he’ll darn sure let you know if all of us came up short in our evaluation. If it’s a keeper, you are now armed to negotiate with the seller. Do yourself a huge favor...do not buy this car unless you have it professionally authenticated. Your last comment is what gets guys in trouble.  Wink

Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #34 on: December 26, 2011, 10:45:12 PM »

Thanks Marty. I found out my camera was set for far away shots not close up  Embarrassed, but I do not know if another trip is possible. I have to return to work tomorrow, so I am hoping the consignor can send me a clear photo. I have not heard back from Jerry yet.
Logged
tmodel66
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1212


View Profile Email
« Reply #35 on: December 27, 2011, 09:36:01 AM »

An August engine in a November car is not good IMO. Too early I think.
Logged

Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #36 on: December 27, 2011, 10:09:21 AM »

An August engine in a November car is not good IMO. Too early I think.

That was my first thought also, but not unheard of...another reason to get a clear pic of the pad. Wink

The engine assembly date must always be before the vehicle (not body) assembly date. The engine assembly date almost always is before the Fisher Body cowl tag date. In the unusual case it is later (since the Fisher Body calendar does not always line up with the normal calendar), it should be within a week of the body. Most engine assembly dates are less than 30 days before the vehicle build. Some engine assembly dates can be 30-90 days before vehicle build with the odd exception being >90 days.

Logged
tmodel66
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1212


View Profile Email
« Reply #37 on: December 27, 2011, 10:25:58 AM »

An August engine in a November car is not good IMO. Too early I think.

That was my first thought also, but not unheard of...another reason to get a clear pic of the pad. Wink

The engine assembly date must always be before the vehicle (not body) assembly date. The engine assembly date almost always is before the Fisher Body cowl tag date. In the unusual case it is later (since the Fisher Body calendar does not always line up with the normal calendar), it should be within a week of the body. Most engine assembly dates are less than 30 days before the vehicle build. Some engine assembly dates can be 30-90 days before vehicle build with the odd exception being >90 days.



Yeah that's all I'm saying. It's out of the "norm". This car was built well into the mfg. year, it's a Norwood car and it's a Tonawanda engine where shipping would not play into it.
Logged

Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #38 on: December 27, 2011, 10:30:08 AM »

Good point but KIM, No X Code...68 build.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #39 on: December 27, 2011, 10:31:57 AM »

I would think that would be the case with cars that had higher production numbers that the dates would be closer together. But could it be possible as you said earlier Marty that only 2000 of the L34 options were produced. As a result could the engine build date be earlier waiting for the order/body to go to assembly?
Logged
tmodel66
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1212


View Profile Email
« Reply #40 on: December 27, 2011, 11:04:02 AM »

It's been discussed here before. There was no "body banks". Orders were built as received with the odd exception of parts shortage. The JL8 rear end comes to mind but again that's an odd part. I think it was Pontiac (not sure) that had body banks but to my understanding Chevrolet didn't use them.
« Last Edit: December 27, 2011, 12:14:25 PM by tmodel66 » Logged

Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
jdv69z
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 664


69 RS Z/28 52E


View Profile Email
« Reply #41 on: December 27, 2011, 11:31:11 AM »

Just a head's up:  Rear spoiler should be short 68 type. It appears to be later 69 type. Don't know if that means anything; perhaps added later?

Jimmy V.
Logged

Jimmy V.
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #42 on: December 27, 2011, 12:13:24 PM »

Exactly...finding out if the drivetrain is original is just half the fun. Then comes all other compenents including; nuts, bolts, washers, finishes, and on and on and on... you have no idea what your getting yourself into Mickey. But I must say...its a blast once you know you have something to work with! If your in to that sort of thing...numbers matching.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #43 on: December 27, 2011, 12:26:55 PM »

It has certainly been fun so far. It is like being a detective try to find facts and figures, what is right and what is not. Then if your reseach is correct then it is llike finding a treasure. I am an engineer by trade, so a technical subject such as this suits my personality.

I already know there is an added aftermarket A/C that is ok it is much needed here in FL to take it out for a drive in the middle of summer. That is ok because I know. I just want to know what the car is and what it is not.

I certainly hope it is one of the original L34's

In addition if the car is in fact authentic, the other half of the fun is doing the work bringing it back to life.
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #44 on: December 27, 2011, 12:44:31 PM »

This car also appears to be heavily optioned. From what I can see by the pics...clock, rosewood steering wheel, gauge pkg, delux interior, rs/ss pkg, vinyl top, and what really catches my eyes are the SS wheels and the AM/FM radio (I think its amfm). It will be interesting to see if these are all original components.

What else am I missing?

Here's the list of all the options, price, and how many were produced...http://www.camaros.org/pdf/options.pdf

If everything checks out you might have to dig pretty deep.  Wink
« Last Edit: December 27, 2011, 01:02:24 PM by IZRSSS » Logged
x77-69z28
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 816



View Profile
« Reply #45 on: December 27, 2011, 03:10:37 PM »

i have also seen the vin on turbo 400 trans stamped up on the flange where it bolts to the block. just another thing to look at.
buddy
Logged

69 x77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
67 rs/ss 350 butternut yellow 4 speed 2nd owner
70 Z28 forrest green, green int, M40, bk vinyl roof PROJECT
99 SS hugger orange 6spd NO TTOPS bought new 1 of 54
11 cts-v blk diamond  edition wagon 556hp sick!
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #46 on: December 27, 2011, 04:30:51 PM »

The consignor was able to take some clearer photos of the VIN 19N547348 on the engine pad. I know some are hard to read due to the generator, but with it being on consignment they are not willing to let me take it apart. So the attached photos will have to due unless or until I can have Jerry or Ed do a complete due diligence. I welcome your feedback to based on information at hand to this point.

I know the 3 and 8 in 547348 are worn and hard to see but they are there and you can just make them out in the last photo

Mickey
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #47 on: December 27, 2011, 04:35:53 PM »

I'd certainly move onto the next stage!
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #48 on: December 27, 2011, 04:38:20 PM »

Great thanks. I was 99% sure after seeing it for myself yesterday. But I was certainly worried about that last 1%.  Cheesy
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #49 on: December 27, 2011, 04:40:00 PM »

Remember...the next stage isn't buying it...it simply means there is enough there to warrent an expert evaluation/appraisal. Wink
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #50 on: December 27, 2011, 04:45:35 PM »

Of course. I understood what you meant. Have you heard back from Jerry or Ed yet?
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #51 on: December 27, 2011, 05:01:31 PM »

He's probably getting ready for some big New Years celebration. If you look real close you can see him on drums  Grin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfaxweaIj_Y
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #52 on: December 27, 2011, 05:53:33 PM »

This car also appears to be heavily optioned. From what I can see by the pics...clock, rosewood steering wheel, gauge pkg, delux interior, rs/ss pkg, vinyl top, and what really catches my eyes are the SS wheels and the AM/FM radio (I think its amfm). It will be interesting to see if these are all original components.

What else am I missing?

Here's the list of all the options, price, and how many were produced...http://www.camaros.org/pdf/options.pdf

If everything checks out you might have to dig pretty deep.  Wink


I almost forgot to mention because I was focused on other areas of the car but I did confirm the dual exhaust. The doubler plate is on the rear drivers side frame rail. Indicating RPO N10
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #53 on: December 27, 2011, 06:04:47 PM »

Have you heard back from Jerry?

Did you call the phone number at the bottom of the link Paul posted (Reply 1)? He'll be back on a regular schedule after the 1st...
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #54 on: December 27, 2011, 06:25:20 PM »

Have you heard back from Jerry?

Did you call the phone number at the bottom of the link Paul posted (Reply 1)? He'll be back on a regular schedule after the 1st...

I did not call yet. I sent an introductory email since he does not know me. I also wanted you guys to take a look a that engine pad photo before I called the number.
Logged
Ed Bertrand
CRG Member
*****
Posts: 2333


View Profile
« Reply #55 on: December 28, 2011, 02:11:38 PM »

I got in touch with Jerry and he's "involved" right now (I can't elaborate but you know what that means), and trying taking a short (but in my opinion, a well deserved) holiday vacation at the same time! He said he'll be back in action within the next few weeks so don't worry if he doesn't contact you until then.

Ed
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #56 on: December 28, 2011, 02:56:54 PM »

Thanks Ed. He did email me this morning. He informed me of his current situation and will be in touch after the first of the year at his convenience. I asked the seller to inform me if the car is no longer for sale during that time. If you have had the opportunity to read what I have posted here to date, I welcome your thoughts and opinion.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #57 on: December 28, 2011, 08:15:39 PM »


The yellow trans tag shows CE (which is correct for an L34 engine) 69 316 then below on the same tag CE-69-2442




As far as I can tell the TH400 looks promising as well. Just need a date?                                             
                                                                                               

Marty I found a Julian date calculator over in the CRG research area here:

http://www.camaros.org/numbers.shtml#Calendar

Anyway with the information off the yellow trans tag on the passengers side of the TH 400 the C is correct for model year 1969 even though it started in late 68.
E is the TH 400 correct for RPO L34 Engine

316 Julian calendar date. In the above calculator I put in November 1968 (Because I know both the cowl tag 2nd week of Nov 68  and rear axle code 11 15 which is November 15Th 68) and the calculator gave me November 11, 1968  as the calendar date for the transmission.
Logged
basecoupe#79
Member
***
Posts: 39


View Profile
« Reply #58 on: December 29, 2011, 01:25:33 PM »

This car also appears to be heavily optioned. From what I can see by the pics...clock, rosewood steering wheel, gauge pkg, delux interior, rs/ss pkg, vinyl top, and what really catches my eyes are the SS wheels and the AM/FM radio (I think its amfm). It will be interesting to see if these are all original components.

What else am I missing?

Here's the list of all the options, price, and how many were produced...http://www.camaros.org/pdf/options.pdf

If everything checks out you might have to dig pretty deep.  Wink


I almost forgot to mention because I was focused on other areas of the car but I did confirm the dual exhaust. The doubler plate is on the rear drivers side frame rail. Indicating RPO N10
were you able to get a pic of that plate?  About every one of the real deal dual exhaust plates I have seen were basically hit with the welder in a few spots.  If they were added later in the cars life most have a nice continuous bead in place....top and bottom.
Looks like a nice car.  Good luck.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #59 on: December 29, 2011, 01:39:19 PM »

I did not get a pictue of it. My camera was not woking anyway as shown in some of my previous posts. I did not look at the welds, I only made note to check to see if it was present and not how it was attached.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #60 on: March 01, 2012, 05:07:44 PM »

sorry it has taken so long getting back, especially to those who replyd to my questions earlier and have helped me get this far. After the holiday's getting back to work did not leave a lot of time to pursue the purchase, but I have been working at it slowly. I was finally able to come to a preliminary purchase price agreement with an inspection contingnecy that allowed me to walk away if the car was fake. This allows me to have the car inpsected by an expert (such as Jerry or other expert) without signing a contract. After obtaining that agreement, I was given a number for a guy here in FL named Ian Johnston to inspect for originality and condiditon. Is anyone here familiar with Ian's work or had an inpsection done by him before?
Logged
NoYenko
Member
***
Posts: 325



View Profile
« Reply #61 on: March 01, 2012, 05:50:34 PM »

Just caught this thread, looks like a nice car. I have a similar car, only a L35, that was built around 4 days before this one. Mine has an Aug. engine also. Distributor and 1 exhaust manifold also August. George
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #62 on: March 03, 2012, 09:15:19 AM »

Thanks George. I like your color combination blue/white. Do you have any additional photos?


Anyone familiar with Ian Johnston's work or had an inspection performed by him? I understand he has done a lot of restoration work and he is local, about an hour drive from me. He has already inspected the car that I am interested in for a different customer, but the other buyer passed for a z/28. So a report containing about 3.5 pages of detailed information is available, I just need to find out if his source of information is good to proceed to make the seller a firm offer. I know Rich Fields is down here in FL too, maybe he or Jerry knows Ian or could help with an inspection?
Logged
NoYenko
Member
***
Posts: 325



View Profile
« Reply #63 on: March 04, 2012, 01:23:33 PM »

Mickey, my car is completely disassembled and at the bodyshop for awhile. No finished pictures yet. Hope it turns out like this picture I borrowed. George
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #64 on: March 05, 2012, 08:16:55 AM »

WOW I really love that color combination. what color is that blue called?
Logged
NoYenko
Member
***
Posts: 325



View Profile
« Reply #65 on: March 05, 2012, 09:18:15 AM »

Color is off a little in the picture, should be LeMans blue.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #66 on: March 09, 2012, 06:56:12 PM »

I have had the car inspected and know more about it than before with enough info to proceed. I have it under contract with a deposit. I should complete the transaction and take delivery sometime this month. I will post more once the deal is done, but for right now I want to keep it confidential until the purchase is complete.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #67 on: March 22, 2012, 04:26:01 PM »

I just heard from the transport driver. He has arrived at the dealership and is loading the vehicle to deliver it. It should be here later this evening.
Logged
restore-z28
Member
***
Posts: 270



View Profile Email
« Reply #68 on: March 22, 2012, 07:19:06 PM »

Congratulations on the purchase and it must be exciting to finally have it all be done after months of research.
Logged

Sonny

1969 Z28 Camaro
1970 Z28 Camaro

www.bccamaroclub.com
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #69 on: March 22, 2012, 07:48:41 PM »

Just finished unloading it and it is safely home in the garage. Thanks to all for the input. I look forward to going into detail taking all of the photos, cleaning, and documenting it. I will post some more detailed photos as I go.
Logged
IZRSSS
Guest
« Reply #70 on: March 22, 2012, 08:03:54 PM »

Exciting time & congratulations! Looking forward to seeing the pics.
Logged
maroman
Member
***
Posts: 369


View Profile Email
« Reply #71 on: March 22, 2012, 08:25:43 PM »

Marty, do you work on commision? Nice car, good luck and have fun.
Logged

Doug  '67 RS/SS 396 auto I know the car since new
NoYenko
Member
***
Posts: 325



View Profile
« Reply #72 on: March 22, 2012, 08:36:31 PM »

Congratulations on seeing this in your own garage. You made a smart, informative purchase. I look forward to hopefully hearing and seeing more about your car. It truly is a rare car in having original drive train, the engine option, and being a higher optioned RS-SS. My car built about the same time as yours has me additionally interested. Here is a list of my dated components and I would be really interested hearing on how they compare to your car. Enjoy & have fun with it. Sorry for hogging your space.
George.

Engine cast date H ?? 8 (Aug) 1968
Engine casting number 3955272
Engine stamp TI104JG-19N539454
        T=Tonawanda
        I104= (November 4th )
        JG=396-325 Auto 400
        1=Chevrolet
        9=1969
        539454= Partial VIN.
Heads casting date J10 8=(Oct 8th ) & J15 8= (Oct 15th )
Head casting number 3931063

Water Pump 39310065T   G 18 8=(July 18 1968)

Intake casting 3931067
Intake cast date J158 (Oct 15 1968)

LH Exhaust 3909879 /  H318= (Aug 31 1968)
RH Exhaust 3916178 /  J318= (Oct 31 1968)

Carb # 7029200EE
Carb date  3118  (Nov 6th  1968)
Carb plate date  30C ( 30th Week)

Distributor # 1111497
Distributor date  8H13 (Aug 13 1968)

Trans Tag       Yellow Tag      Upper 366    Lower CC-69-6026

Rear axle stamp   BL1111G2  / 3.07 – (Nov 11th ) – Detroit – 2nd  Shift
Rear axle cast date     K88 / (Nov 8th – 1968)
Brake inspection date “316” Julian date (Nov. 11th)
Brake caliper casting 5463633
Brake caliper cast date RT“240” (Sept 27th)   & L“296” ( Oct 27th)
Brake caliper machine date RT“281” (Oct 7th) & L“315” (Nov 10th
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #73 on: March 22, 2012, 10:51:25 PM »

Thanks Geroge.
 I do have the information from mine in the inspection report, but I want to go through it to see for myself and learn about it in more detail. I will use your outline as a list for documenting all of the part numbers and pics of course.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #74 on: March 22, 2012, 10:55:42 PM »

Exciting time & congratulations! Looking forward to seeing the pics.

Thanks Marty especially for your help. Now that it is in the garage it will try to get a better pic of the engine stamp.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #75 on: March 22, 2012, 10:57:25 PM »

Congratulations on the purchase and it must be exciting to finally have it all be done after months of research.

Thanks Sonny you are absolutly right about that. I am even more excited to go through it part by part and drive it.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #76 on: March 27, 2012, 05:07:37 PM »

Congratulations on seeing this in your own garage. You made a smart, informative purchase. I look forward to hopefully hearing and seeing more about your car. It truly is a rare car in having original drive train, the engine option, and being a higher optioned RS-SS. My car built about the same time as yours has me additionally interested. Here is a list of my dated components and I would be really interested hearing on how they compare to your car. Enjoy & have fun with it. Sorry for hogging your space.
George.

Engine cast date H ?? 8 (Aug) 1968
Engine casting number 3955272
Engine stamp TI104JG-19N539454
        T=Tonawanda
        I104= (November 4th )
        JG=396-325 Auto 400
        1=Chevrolet
        9=1969
        539454= Partial VIN.
Heads casting date J10 8=(Oct 8th ) & J15 8= (Oct 15th )
Head casting number 3931063

Water Pump 39310065T   G 18 8=(July 18 1968)

Intake casting 3931067
Intake cast date J158 (Oct 15 1968)

LH Exhaust 3909879 /  H318= (Aug 31 1968)
RH Exhaust 3916178 /  J318= (Oct 31 1968)

Carb # 7029200EE
Carb date  3118  (Nov 6th  1968)
Carb plate date  30C ( 30th Week)

Distributor # 1111497
Distributor date  8H13 (Aug 13 1968)

Trans Tag       Yellow Tag      Upper 366    Lower CC-69-6026

Rear axle stamp   BL1111G2  / 3.07 – (Nov 11th ) – Detroit – 2nd  Shift
Rear axle cast date     K88 / (Nov 8th – 1968)
Brake inspection date “316” Julian date (Nov. 11th)
Brake caliper casting 5463633
Brake caliper cast date RT“240” (Sept 27th)   & L“296” ( Oct 27th)
Brake caliper machine date RT“281” (Oct 7th) & L“315” (Nov 10th


George,
Below is what I have found so far with the exception of some of the cast dats. I will come back and edit this when I find them.

I have been spending some time under the hood latley. I did find the trans hidden VIN but could not get a clear sight on it. I could see the numbers though on the top of the bellhousing not down by the pan. Plus there was 40+ years of oil and dirt I could not make it out along with the block casting #. However, I did get the block casting date down below by the motor mounts G15 8 August 15th 1968. Below is a listing of the rest of what I have found so far:

Carb: Rochester Quadrajet 4MV 7029204 FF (correct for L34) could not find the date code though maybe a hint at where I can find it? I found a lot of little numbers everywhere with the RP prefix so I think those are individual Rochester part numbers.

Intake: Intersetingly had Q-JET cast into the passenger side front and the firing order on the drivers front forward of the carb.

The intake casting number: 3931067 cast date H 5 8 or August 5th 1968 time 11:00

Cylinder heads: both 3931063
passenger side head cast F24 8 June 24th 1968 6:00
drivers side head cast F26 8 June 26th 1968 9:00

Exhaust Manifolds:
RH2 3916178 have not found the cast date yet maybe someone can hint where to look.
LH2 3909879

Master Cylinder:
Cast number 5468309 Front tab US = 1969 Power disks 1-1/8" bore
Power booster: Delco Moraine mounted upside down at the 7:00 position
tab side 1 9204 = 1969 disks
tab side 2 285 = Julian date = Oct. 11th 1968

Distributor: 1111497 396/325HP hmmm maybe a mixup on the assembly line perhaps? Seems to be because the date code is correct H13 8 August 13th, 1968

Alternator: Seems to be a replacement (If anyone knows what this part number is please let me know.)
cast numbers: 1103175 42A
1F 4 12VNEG

Radiator seem to be a replacement also but I noticed that right away. The 396/350HP non A/C (RPO C60) should have been a 3 core radiator striaght neck. The A/C cars had a 4 core radiator with a curved neck for the upper radiator hose to clear the compressor. However, this car has a four core straight neck radiator. So even though the radiator does not have the tag it is a later model upgrade. It is expceted though as I don't want to overheat the engine running A/C on a three core original radiator. It does have the original 4 blade fan. I think I need to add a 7 blade clutch fan and keep the old 4 blade fan as part of the orginal equipment to this car.

Thanks and that is it for now. I have pics, but my camera is not that good. I will see when I get a chance to download them. Next task on the list is to remove the alt. to get a better photo of the stamp pad, but that is for another day.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #77 on: March 27, 2012, 07:31:16 PM »

Found the block casting number 3935440
Logged
68camaroz28
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 997



View Profile Email
« Reply #78 on: March 27, 2012, 07:48:49 PM »

Ex casting date to inside or what one might say the backside of manifold. Other words, if you took the manifold off and layed it down upside down and looked at that backside you will see the casting date. Small mirror.......
congrats again......Love the car!
Logged

Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
NoYenko
Member
***
Posts: 325



View Profile
« Reply #79 on: March 27, 2012, 07:50:41 PM »

Thanks for sharing the info & dates. The carb date is normally stamped on the driver side of throttle plate. I believe one date is carb assembly date the other is the week the plate was machined.
The exhaust manifold date is on the backside facing the block. Probably can't read it with manifolds installed.
I think my trans stamp was right on the very edge of the bellhousing around the 10 o'clock postion.
On the distributor I looked up in my 1972 parts book and our part number(1111497) was no longer listed at that early date. The replacement number listed was described as (All 396 exc. SHP "375"). Maybe 325 & 350 HP were the same. Great work, keep hunting.  George.
Logged
Everett#2390
Member
***
Posts: 81


^Jake


View Profile Email
« Reply #80 on: March 28, 2012, 06:02:41 AM »

Nice Camaro. Congrats on the buy, Mickey.
Enjoy the dream.
Logged

A flashlight is a case for dead batteries.
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #81 on: March 28, 2012, 07:39:49 AM »

Ex casting date to inside or what one might say the backside of manifold. Other words, if you took the manifold off and layed it down upside down and looked at that backside you will see the casting date. Small mirror.......
congrats again......Love the car!

Thanks. I am going to need a small mirror because the manifolds are still on the car. I do not plan right now to take anything off unless I have to.

Thanks for sharing the info & dates. The carb date is normally stamped on the driver side of throttle plate. I believe one date is carb assembly date the other is the week the plate was machined.
The exhaust manifold date is on the backside facing the block. Probably can't read it with manifolds installed.
I think my trans stamp was right on the very edge of the bellhousing around the 10 o'clock postion.
On the distributor I looked up in my 1972 parts book and our part number(1111497) was no longer listed at that early date. The replacement number listed was described as (All 396 exc. SHP "375"). Maybe 325 & 350 HP were the same. Great work, keep hunting.  George.

I looked for the trans VIN for about 2 hrs when I first looked at it using the information here on CRG. The inspector that I used also did not see it. Mine is also at the top of the bellhousing at 10:00 position. Although in that location I cannot make out all of the numbers due to 40+ years of oil and road grime. I did however make out 9N5473xx I just could not see or make out the last two. I guess if I ever drop the trans I will get a good photo of it like you posted. That is interesting on the distributor number maybe some of the other experts here can provide more information.


Nice Camaro. Congrats on the buy, Mickey.
Enjoy the dream.

Thanks. Everett. I am loving it so far and I still have not taken it out yet. I am still waiting on the tags. I should have asked for a temp tag too.
Logged
Petes L48
Member
***
Posts: 312



View Profile
« Reply #82 on: March 28, 2012, 09:36:02 AM »

Thanks. I am going to need a small mirror because the manifolds are still on the car. I do not plan right now to take anything off unless I have to.

If that doesn't work, one trick I sometimes use is to get a clean sheet of copier paper, place over the casting numbers, then rub with your fingers to leave an impression on the paper.  Not sure if it would work here, and I think you'd have to go up from underside of the car.
Logged
x77-69z28
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 816



View Profile
« Reply #83 on: March 28, 2012, 10:55:23 AM »

congrats mickey! i have been following this thread, and am glad it worked out for you. enjoy it and keep us informed.
buddy
Logged

69 x77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
67 rs/ss 350 butternut yellow 4 speed 2nd owner
70 Z28 forrest green, green int, M40, bk vinyl roof PROJECT
99 SS hugger orange 6spd NO TTOPS bought new 1 of 54
11 cts-v blk diamond  edition wagon 556hp sick!
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #84 on: March 28, 2012, 11:49:33 AM »

congrats mickey! i have been following this thread, and am glad it worked out for you. enjoy it and keep us informed.
buddy

Thanks buddy I did see you previous post about the trans VIN location. I did find it right where you said and also where George's is located.

Logged
x77-69z28
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 816



View Profile
« Reply #85 on: March 28, 2012, 11:11:16 PM »

my 70 z28 turbo 400 has the vin stamped down on the drivers side by the pan. a friend has a 69 CX trans and the vin was up on the bellhousing. keep posting pics!
Logged

69 x77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
67 rs/ss 350 butternut yellow 4 speed 2nd owner
70 Z28 forrest green, green int, M40, bk vinyl roof PROJECT
99 SS hugger orange 6spd NO TTOPS bought new 1 of 54
11 cts-v blk diamond  edition wagon 556hp sick!
KurtS
CRG Coordinator
*****
Posts: 3327


View Profile Email
« Reply #86 on: March 29, 2012, 10:35:03 AM »

Same as the PG and TH350.
Great info, I'll modify the drawing. Is the VIN below or above that mounting bolt? I'd guess below, but I can't tell for sure with George's picture and your sketch has it on top of it. Smiley

Thanks!
Logged

Kurt S
CRG
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #87 on: March 29, 2012, 11:24:13 AM »

Kurt thanks. I will look at it again and see if I can see the mounting bolt, but with the trans still in the car, I am trying to peek between the cowl and distributior and just barely see the front edge of the bellhousing.
Logged
NoYenko
Member
***
Posts: 325



View Profile
« Reply #88 on: March 29, 2012, 07:59:29 PM »

Mickey & Kurt, here is a better picture of where the partial Vin is on my trans. George
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #89 on: March 29, 2012, 10:12:32 PM »

That is where mine is located too.
Logged
KurtS
CRG Coordinator
*****
Posts: 3327


View Profile Email
« Reply #90 on: March 30, 2012, 01:02:06 AM »

Thanks guys. I updated the site info.
Logged

Kurt S
CRG
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #91 on: April 01, 2012, 05:40:26 PM »

Got the plates in the mail and I took my new car out for the initial spin today. I did drive it when I looked at it but it seemd to have a lack of power. Well since I it home I have been going through all of the fluids, brakes, fuel lines to make sure every thing was. safe. Well come to find out the tank was bone dry at the dealership. I added some fresh gas, toped off the oil, charged the battery, and added some seafoam to the gas, crank case, and carb. After that I took it out and around the block to get the temp up. After I  was comfortable everything was ok and some mild crusing for about 20mins, I wanted some RPM's. I shifted into second at a stop light out on my county highway. When the light turned green I went WOT, that 396 really came to life and suprised the heck out of me. The RPM guage went to 5000 and the rear tires laid down some 11's even with the Q-jet. That fresh gas and clean out really did it some good. I cruised it easy for about another 20 min before heading home. I was just having too much fun, part of the way with the A/C on and the original AM/FM pushbuttion radio playing some tunes. Yea life is good.

Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #92 on: April 03, 2012, 05:22:38 PM »

I have been doing some more numbers search on my car and checking out the rear end. From my first inspection I already knew that the rear axle code is BI 11 15 G1. 2.73:1 rear assembled Nov. 15Th 1968 Detroit Gear and Axle 1st Shift. Well today I found the center cast date K 88 or Nov. 8Th 1968 which is right for this car. What surprised me was that as I went back over to the assembly code and something caught my eye that I missed the first time. There is a capital D stamped on the passenger axle tube just below the BI stamp. I came back to the computer and went to the rear axle codes here at CRG and sure enough the BI in the codes list shows it as a non-posi as I first thought. I also thought that it was a non-posi because I was looking for a capital P. Now that I have reread the CRG section on rear ends I found out that the D is correct for a Dana posi unit. When I get a chance I am going to have to pull the rear cover to know for sure. I would take some pics but I need to find a better camera.

Is it possible that my BI code rear has a posi unit in it?
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #93 on: April 05, 2012, 09:19:05 PM »

I was out in the garage doing some cleaning and digging. First off, on the drivers side valve cover the plug wire separator for the front two plugs was missing. I figured that no problem I could get a new one. While doing some cleaning in the engine compartment, I found the plastic top that holds the plug wires laying on top of the steering box. It is easy to figure out how it fell down in there, but how it stayed there for who knows how long before it got it makes me wonder. I put that back on and secured the front two drivers side plug wires. Also while cleaning I found the casting numbers and dates for the steering gear box.

on the box itself was cast 5691676 with a 32 under the 91 and a cast date of 312. I am assuming that is a Julian date which would be Nov. 7th, 1968 or 5 days after the box was cast.
On the aluminum cover on top of the box I also found a number and date of 5686555 and date 317 8 Nov. 12, 1968. or three days before the rear end and one week before the car assembly date.

Anyone have any idea what the 32 below the box cast number means?
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #94 on: April 10, 2012, 02:56:14 PM »

Drove to a cruise in the other night and thought that the Vintage Air unit seems to be a little warm and that just the blower was running. When I got home with the engine running I opened the hood and put a pressure gauge on the low side hose. I did not get a reading, so I waited and watched the compressor. The compressor clutch never engaged. I called their tech support and found out that the Vintage Air systems have a safety shut off switch mounted on the drier to shut off the compress if the refridgerant gets low, to prevent a compressor burnout. I went to the local parts store got a refill can of 134a attached it, turned the car on. Once I set the control for the A/C on the compressor engaged immediatly and started blowing cold air through the vents. So the system was just a little low on fluid. Topped the system off and it is all good. I did not even use a full can of 12oz refill. Put the pressure gauge back on 25 psi low 80 psi equalized with the system off.

FYI if you ever use a vintage air system, there is a heater control valve in the heater hose just before it enters the firewall. Don't touch it until it cools down. It is hotter than a MFer ask me how I know.
Logged
KurtS
CRG Coordinator
*****
Posts: 3327


View Profile Email
« Reply #95 on: April 10, 2012, 04:03:32 PM »

It seems like lots of L34 cars got special order axle ratios. Default would have been 3.07, IIRC.
It's a non-posi. I've seen that D before, may be an inspection mark. I've never seen a Dana unit in any first gen.
32 on the st box is probably the mold number.
Logged

Kurt S
CRG
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #96 on: April 10, 2012, 04:34:13 PM »

It seems like lots of L34 cars got special order axle ratios. Default would have been 3.07, IIRC.
It's a non-posi. I've seen that D before, may be an inspection mark. I've never seen a Dana unit in any first gen.
32 on the st box is probably the mold number.

Thanks Kurt.

At some point I am going to remove the rear cover to change the fluid so, I will know for sure at that time. Also, if I can ever get a better camera, I will take a photo of the mark and let you guys tell me what you think.

Regarding the steering gear box, the number that is cast into the case (not the aluminium cover) does not match with the AIM, but from what I have read the 5691676 casting was used in a lot of the GM cars during this time including the Camaros. The cast dates and assembly dates for the steering gear box match those or are within days of other parts assemblies. The steering gear box was assembled three days before the rear end and was a week before the body assembly. So the dates seem good.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #97 on: July 04, 2012, 07:36:39 PM »

Finally got around to pulling the front wheels off and doing a liitle cleaning/degreasing. There was 43 years of grease and road dirt under the front end. Used an engine dreaser and brake cleaner to clean off the pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod ends, brake calipers and steering arms. The brake pads and rotor looked ok for now so I did not pull them off. I could not find the pitman and idler arm numbers unless they are on top, but I measured the pitman arm and it is a 5.75 c-c arm. I did find the casting numbers for the brake calipers and steering arms.

Brake calipers: Delco Moraine 5463833
Left side steering arm: 3954875 JB
Right side steering arm: 3954876 LY

Anyone know what the two letters on each of the steering arms mean?
« Last Edit: July 04, 2012, 07:58:43 PM by mickeystoys69RSSS » Logged
JohnZ
CRG Member
*****
Posts: 4158


View Profile Email
« Reply #98 on: July 06, 2012, 10:25:59 AM »

Anyone know what the two letters on each of the steering arms mean?

That identifies the set of forging dies used to form the part; there were multiple sets of progressive forging dies for each part, as they required constant maintenance due to wear.
Logged

'69 Z/28
Fathom Green
CRG
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #99 on: February 24, 2013, 08:16:16 PM »

I was at a car show and swap meet this weekend and found a '70s model Sears Dwell Tachometer and pick it up for about $10. I llooked brand new and included the box and instruction manual. Now I will be able to change the points in the future.
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #100 on: March 03, 2013, 04:46:21 PM »

While looking at the firewall for another thread I found the trim inspection mark. The second photo shows it in relation to the trim tag right behind the brake booster. I have looked at the tag several times, but I am not sure why I did not notice it unitl now.
Logged
NoYenko
Member
***
Posts: 325



View Profile
« Reply #101 on: March 04, 2013, 09:22:52 AM »

Mickey, nice find. Protect that, the stamps I found under my AC box were dirty so I decided to clean them with something mild like windex.
Well it took off 50% of the ink. George
Logged
mickeystoys69RSSS
Member
***
Posts: 245



View Profile
« Reply #102 on: March 05, 2013, 07:33:34 PM »

I have not been able to find the P or B anywhere. They may have worn off before I got the car, but I have not looked on the other side by the heater core either like yours.  I am hopeful that maybe the x2 is in the back since our cars are the pre x-code build dates.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 ... 7 [All] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.158 seconds with 17 queries.