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Author Topic: Adding console gauges and tach for 69 Camaro  (Read 7516 times)
sdkar
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« on: March 30, 2006, 06:50:15 PM »

I would like to add a tach and console gauges to my car.  Are the aftermarket gauges and tach good to use or should I look for original?  Second, I see there are two wiring harnesses to get.  Do I need both?  Can I use my existing underdash harness and tie in the console gauge harness or should I get the underdash harness as well?  How does the underdash harness install?  Do I have to remove my exisitng one?  How does the new harness plug in and install and how difficult?  Do I need a harness for the tach as well or is it included?  If anyone has done this conversion, please let me know of your experience.  Any and all help is always appreciated.
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nuch_ss396
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2006, 07:23:08 PM »

Hi,

I can't answer your question directly as I haven't tackled that part of my project yet.

Regarding the console gauge package, Ron Norman @ McHenry Classic Car Parts sold me both options a while ago.  One was an aftermarket
harness that "hookes-in" to your existing non-gage harness.  As I recall, you can't tell from the console back.  Only if you really go digging under
the dash.  The other was a complete harness.  I'm betting the same is true of the tach.  You can contact him: mccp@voyager.net

Steve
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69 SS 396, Hugger Orange, D/80, D/90
Chambered Exhaust, N/66, THM400, 3:73 posi

Steve A.
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rich69rs
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« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2006, 08:25:39 PM »

Guys:

This topic came up not too long ago - see attached link:

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=281.0

I've done it and it was no problem.  You don't change anything in the dash harness.  The existing setup in a car with idiot lights has a temp line coming in already to the light, just need to take the light out of the circuit and run the temp line to the temp gage.  (Also change out the termperature sending unit to one for gages).  Ammeter and tach leads can be run as new wires from the tach and ammeter gage out through the firewall to the coil, horn relay and the charging circuit junction block near the battery.

If you want to set it up as GM built it, the tach and ammeter leads (3 wires total) need to be terminated at the proper locations in the bulkhead adapter under the fuse block in the interior of the car.  (Temp lead is already properly terminated.)  Then if you replace both wiring harnesses in the engine compartment (engine and front light harnesses) with harnesses that are for a gage setup, you'll pickup the tach and ammeter connections through the bulkhead connectors.

Fuel line connection is simply a matter of extending the existing lead for a fuel gage in the dash to get it down to the console.

The last item is to remove the existing oil pressure switch and connect the oil tubing from the engine through the firewall to the oil pressue gage.  The existing lead for the oil pressure switch can be eliminated as it is no longer used.  (if you change out the harness, one for gages won't have this connection.)

Check out the attached link and let's go from there.

Richard
« Last Edit: March 31, 2006, 08:49:43 PM by rich69rs » Logged

Richard Thomas
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sdkar
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2006, 03:45:13 PM »

I see Ricks sells two harnesses that they say is needed for the changeover.  One for $85 and one for $55.  Do I need both of these or just the console gauge harness and attach it to my existing under dash gauge?

Steve
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rich69rs
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2006, 05:07:57 PM »

I can only recall one harness in the kit I used that adapted the existting wiring in my non gage console to the required wiring in the console to accept the gages.

If I read Rick's on line catalog correctly, page 199, top right states the following:

CONSOLE GAUGE CONVERSION HARNESS
Install the console gauge option just like the factory did in non-gauge cars. 100%
correct wiring, colors and connectors. Complete kit with detailed instructions.

Use Console Harness below to complete installation.
6706 67 A/T original console shift ..........
6709 67 A/T original column shift ..........
6705 67 All manual trans .......................
6806 68 A/T original console shift ..........
6809 68 A/T original column shift ..........
6805 68 All manual trans .......................
6906 69 A/T original console shift ..........
6909 69 A/T original column shift ..........
6905 69 All manual trans .......................

I believe that you only need to select one harness from the above listing that fits the particulars of your car, i.e. manual vs. automatic, original column or console shift, etc., and that the one, correct harness will adapt your current setup to accept gages.

There are two othe console harnesses listed below these in Rick's catalog.  As I would read the catalog, these would be replacement harnesses for cars that either came with gages or for non gage cars.  To me these listings are just to simply replace what you already have without converting over from non gage to a gage setup.  Best bet would be to double check with Rick's.

Richard
« Last Edit: April 01, 2006, 05:15:09 PM by rich69rs » Logged

Richard Thomas
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« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2011, 07:17:49 PM »

Go to Rock Auto and get both wiring harnesses. They are made by American Auto wire and absolutely perfect. All needed wiring and easy to follow instructions for factory install. I gave 129 for both harnesses and that included shipping. Finished mine this morning and everything went well and all worked.
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69pace
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« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2011, 09:37:37 PM »

The readers digest version:
Yes you need both harnesses if your vehicle did not come with factory gauges and tach.

The first harness called the "conversion" harness creates the stub that would have been installed at the factory for the console to plug into. This harness allows you to re-wire features like moving the fuel gauge and transforming the oil and temp idiot lights to gauge senders. You must order the correct conversion.

The second harness is really straight forward and allows the console saw tooth gauge set to connect to the stub you created with the conversion harness in step one.

The third option is not to install a conversion harness, but to replace your entire wiring harness with a full system either factory-fit line from AAW or the classic update.

As for the gauge set itself really the only difference is if they are true reproductions - requiring external filters on the fuel and temp gauges, or internal.

AAW also sells a true replacement VOLTS meter to replace the factory AMPS meter.

Tachs are better calibrated now then factory. Factory and NOS are wicked $$$ for what they are - 40 year old low tech but its your call.
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1969 Z-11 350/300 with 4 Speed
68Zproject
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« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2011, 04:43:53 PM »

I've got one of the added wiring harnesses for console gauges that I took out to put y car back to idiot lights.  It's complete if someone needs it, PM me.
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68Z28
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