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Author Topic: chirping birds....  (Read 3556 times)
MMMM_ERT
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« on: May 02, 2009, 06:42:03 PM »

All right experts...I'm at my wits end...(not a long drive to get there)

I have a chirping sound coming from the pass rear of the car.  At first I thought it was suspension, so I silicone lubed all pivot points.  Still chirping.  I pulled all the rear interior out...still chirping.  I checked for squeeks with the trunk pivot points and lubed them also.  Still chirping.  I've checked all fuel lines, exhaust clearances, brake lines etc etc etc...  I even looked inside the quarter window housings, body area.   . 

I seems to do it on the freeway which let me to believe it was suspension.  It comes and goes.  It is now doing it at low speeds where a "bump" in the road will interupt the chirping...but then it goes back to normal.  I've stood in the trunk and jumped up and down...no squeak.     Could it be wheel bearings?

It's really ruining the driving experience.

 Help???
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1968 Camaro RS/SS 350 Coupe
Sauron327
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« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2009, 07:20:17 PM »

I'll take a stab at it. 2 possiblilities. 1.) My rear window molding was loose and rubbing against the glass and a retaining clip in a way to cause the chirping; at an idle, and driving. I could not physically make it chirp. It had to be running. 2.) My friend's Rambler/Scrambler had a chirp also. There was a crack in the trunk divider that was the source. The latter was a tough one to isolate. Search for similar scenarios.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2009, 07:52:12 PM by Sauron327 » Logged
dutch
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« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2009, 09:06:42 PM »

Hot really likely but check out your U joint(s). Sometimes depending on the load and rear axle position they will squeak or make a chirping sound that comes and goes.
If you feel any subtle vibration when driving often at a constant speed which will either go away or get worse as you speed up or slow down - it probably could be a U joint starting to tell you something!.
I've heard all different types and intensity of noises made by these things in trucks especially, often with no rhyme or reason other than how the needles get distributed within the caps when they start to dry out and bind. - Randy
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hotrod68
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« Reply #3 on: May 02, 2009, 10:49:31 PM »

I'm with Dutch--I'd check the u-joints. Get the car down to around 15-20mph in high gear and accelerate. U-joints going bad sometimes actually 'rattle' under that kind of load. Also, listen for any kind of clicking at low speed. That's usually a dry u-joint. Good luck!
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
Butternut Yellow    black standard interior
MMMM_ERT
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« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2009, 05:09:40 PM »

Thanks for the input guys...  I will check the u-joing also...though I only have put less than 20K on the car since I put in a new U-joint...but that was back in 94.   There is no vibration in the drivetrain...she's a pretty tight car.

Upon closer inspection...I did notice that my spring eye bushings are collapsed...meaning the spring eye bolt is not at the center of the leaf spring eye any longer.     THese are after market repro springs (also installed in 94)...but I never had any problem up until about 9 months ago.   Do I put in new bushings...or should I just buy new springs again?   


Sauron..thanks for the input also...but the sound definetely seems to be coming from below.
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1968 Camaro RS/SS 350 Coupe
hotrod68
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« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2009, 11:22:31 PM »

  If it was me, I'd just replace the bushings with new urethane ones. Urethane doesn't rot or collapse like rubber and the car feels tighter with them. Folks curse urethane because they squeak sometimes, but it's been my experience if you use plenty of urethane 'grease' when you install them, the squeak will go away once they take a 'set.' My '68 has all Energy Suspension urethane anywhere there was rubber, and after a a hundred miles I never heard the first squeak from them. Good luck!
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
Butternut Yellow    black standard interior
MMMM_ERT
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2009, 12:15:13 PM »

Well...it's not the u-joint...it wasn't dry.  I pumped some grease in just for good measure.

Still chirping.  ARrrrrghhh.

hotrod...these are the front perch spring eye bushings that are collapsed...do they make those in poly?   Also, I'm wondering if any of the spring eye bushing replacements will fit in aftermarket springs.     

A set of new AF springs is around $130.00...GM replacement bushings are around $80.00 for a set.    I can't see paying $400.00 for the "correct" looking springs, especially since my car is not totally original.
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1968 Camaro RS/SS 350 Coupe
mjbake
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2009, 02:59:34 PM »

Here is a thought. It could be the rear brake shoes scooting onthe backing plate. Especially true if you just did something to the brakes. It sould stop immediately if you lightly apply the brakes.

Mike
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Mike
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hotrod68
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2009, 11:35:50 PM »

  Yep...the front bushings are made in urethane. Energy Suspension makes a urethane replacement for just about anything related to the suspension that was rubber. I've replaced everything under my car--spring bushings, shock bushings, spring plate pads, A-frame bushings etc... with Energy stuff, and I'm very pleased with the result. They don't ride hard or squeak, and they won't rot with age.
   The aftermarket replacement springs are made to the same dimensions as GM springs, so it all interchanges. You can get the poly bushings in black and no one will ever know the difference. The front eye bushings will need to be pressed in, but any frame shop can handle that and it'll cost you peanuts beside buying new springs. Or, if you have a really big vise you can do it yourself! My local guy pressed in all my A-frame bushings for $20. So, since your springs are good, you could probably buy the poly bushings and have them pressed in for around $50. Beats the heck outta buying new springs!
   Hope this helps and good luck!
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
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GaryL
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2009, 08:57:47 AM »

Years ago I had a 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger, 340. The the hood was vbibrating slightly on the hood seal and "chirping". A little grease and it went away. Just a thought.
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Gary

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Stingr69
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« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2009, 12:51:36 PM »

Once this happened to me - The headliner ear muffs (side pieces - cardboard) have steel retaining clips that can squeek on small bumps. I had to pull the passenger side headliner side piece off to find it.  Angry

-Mark.
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mjbake
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« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2009, 03:50:28 PM »

Have you found the problem yet MMMert?
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Mike
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rich69rs
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« Reply #12 on: May 28, 2009, 04:45:12 PM »

Had a "chirp" myself a couple of weeks ago.  The parking brake cable had detached itself from the actuating lever inside of the rear passenger side drum brake.  The cable was lying loose inside the brake assembly rubbing lightly against the inside of the drum.  Aggravating thing was that I had to completely disassemble the passenger side rear brake assembly in order to reconnect the cable to the lever.
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Richard Thomas
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MMMM_ERT
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« Reply #13 on: June 08, 2009, 03:12:32 PM »

Have you found the problem yet MMMert?

It went away...for now   Grin

I don't know if it had anything to do with my tinkering, lubing etc... 

We'll see if it comes back.



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1968 Camaro RS/SS 350 Coupe
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