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Author Topic: Brake rebuilders  (Read 3110 times)
Jrschev
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« on: February 09, 2009, 10:45:43 PM »

Hello again! Can anyone recommend someone good to send my original master cylinder and power brake booster to for rebuilding/replating. I want to make sure I get the ones I send in back and not a replacement as they are original to the car. I also would like the master cylinder sleeved with stainless. Thanks for any and all suggestions.
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1969 Z11 Pace Car (05A) 350/300 L48 4-Speed
Larry
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2009, 10:56:55 PM »

I sent mine to Jerry MacNeish at Camaro Hi-Performance. They did and excellant job and I thought the price was reasonable.
Larry
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detfox
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« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2009, 10:18:07 AM »

Of Course MacNeish is great, but depending where you live and you don't want to ship it out, there is a place in Upland [California] that I could suggest. Karp's Power Brake did a fine job for me.
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sixt9x33rs
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« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2009, 07:46:33 PM »

Hello again! Can anyone recommend someone good to send my original master cylinder and power brake booster to for rebuilding/replating. I want to make sure I get the ones I send in back and not a replacement as they are original to the car. I also would like the master cylinder sleeved with stainless. Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Another source is whitepost.com
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'69 RS Z/28 Olympic Gold, 711
Flat hood no spoiler, black top, endura, 4:10
POP 39,000
69 X77 Z/28 69 711 Original Paint Unrestored
'69 X66 Convertible Cortez Silver 712 black top Endura, auto, bumper guards, am/fm rear speaker 44k miles
Pex68
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« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2009, 09:31:52 AM »

Jim,

Jerry does outstanding work and he's right in Maryland.  Prices are fair in regards to the quality of work and he's a Concourse Judge for ACA's Camaro Nationals in Carlisle.
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Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20
Jrschev
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« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2009, 09:28:12 PM »

Thanks everyone for your input. Very helpful. Sent the mas cyl to Apple hydraulics. Seem very resonable and been in business forever. Still have not sent the booster out yet but soon.
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1969 Z11 Pace Car (05A) 350/300 L48 4-Speed
Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2009, 09:45:01 PM »

Make sure they install a stainless steel sleeve if it needs one.  They normally do after many years.  Cars now are 40 years old!  One issue for W/P is they install a brass sleeve and do not want owners to use silicone brake fluid.  That's a problem in the world of show cars.  I even run the silicone fluid in my race car.  Just some food for thought. 

We are fortunate to be very busy in this economy and will not try to steal anyone's work.  Just some things to remember and consider with whom ever you choose.

Good luck,

Jerry

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Pex68
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« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2009, 12:11:23 PM »

Jerry,
Just curious, what's the issue with brass & silicone fluid?
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Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20
Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2009, 01:16:27 PM »

Don't know.  It's an on-going issue with W/P.  We used brass many years ago and I actually have one done like this on the Old Reliable race car and never had an issse.......at 120 mph.  We started using stainless steel sleeves a few years ago and that has been better for us.  No one wants to put reg brake fluid in a show car.  Not me either.

Jerry
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JohnZ
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« Reply #9 on: February 23, 2009, 03:14:53 PM »

Jerry,
Just curious, what's the issue with brass & silicone fluid?

There really isn't an issue - Billy just has a hangup about silicone brake fluid. Apple Hydraulics also uses brass sleeves, and they don't have a problem with it.
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'69 Z/28
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Pex68
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« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2009, 03:38:14 PM »

Thanks, thought there was something I was unaware of.  I have silicone in my car too because it's paint friendly but it's a PITA to work with in reference to air in it/the system-requires LOTS of patients!  I also think you get a better pedal feel with glycol based fluids; maybe that's why they don't recommend it.
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Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20
68Zproject
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« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2009, 09:40:26 PM »

I have a 50 Buick and have run silicone for 30 years in it with no problem.
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68Z28
Jrschev
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« Reply #12 on: February 26, 2009, 09:00:11 PM »

The only thing they are doing to my master cylinder is installing a brass sleeve as it was pitted where the water sat in the bottom. I'll do the rest myself and made that clear to them in fact. I won't be using silicone as it's not neccessary. While I agree that it is a better fluid in the sense that it is non-hygroscopic, thus eliminating future rust, the only other advantage is the higher boilling point. That is what the DOT 5 rating relates to. DOT 4 and DOT 3 have lower boiling points. This is important in applications that are generating lots of heat (race cars) but not in a 1969 camaro.  The problem with using DOT 5 is that you must remove all traces of DOT4 and lower from the system including residual amounts on the seals etc. Unless the system is completely dismantled, flushed and dried there will likely be a problem with the creation of sludge like material as a component of dis-similar materials. Doing a complete frame off restoration and starting new it's the best way to go. It will be good 100 years from now. Anything less than that type of resto and the potential problems out weigh the advantages. There is absolutely no conflict with brass and silicone. That is a myth. (not unlike the thousands of other myths in the automotive world)

Jerry, thanks for the reply to my inital email. Glad to hear you guys are busy. I'm not surprised that you are by what I read on the site.
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1969 Z11 Pace Car (05A) 350/300 L48 4-Speed
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