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Author Topic: 1969 302 DZ valve adjustment question.  (Read 3935 times)
samanatoo
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« on: January 05, 2009, 10:11:25 PM »

When using the 30 30 cam cold and not running valve adjustment for the 302 z motor what would be the valve lash setting for each cylinder when  both intake and exhaust valves for that piston are fully closed?      The procedure listed on the site has you turning the crank 90 degree increments and jumping around and setting them at .026     
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GaryL
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gandmal
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« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2009, 12:13:38 AM »

 As explained in the report, because of the long clearance ramps both lifters are not on the base cirlce at the same time. Both valves may be closed but that does not mean the cam is in the proper position for adjustment
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Gary

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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2009, 01:22:14 AM »

I've always done my adjustments with the engine hot (warm), but not running.... ie. warm it up, then shut it down and do the adjustment....  you can do them one cylinder at a time, OR do the exhaust valves for the cylinders in FRONT of the one you're doing, and the two intake valves for the ones having just fired...  ie.   do that for cylinders 1,  3, , 7 positioned at TDC....  I haven't seen any difference when doing the adjustment this way, so long as you can properly keep up with the valves you've adjusted  (I suggest writint them down, marking them off as adjusted) ..  Smiley.     To save time, the 3 engine positions and valves to adjust at each position are shown below:

1) Engine at cyl 1 at TDC:   adjust 1E, 1I, 8E, 4E, 7I, 2I, 
2) Engine at cyl 3 to TDC:   adjust 3E, 3I, 6E, 5E, 8I, 4I
3) Engine at cyl 7 at TDC:   adjust 7E, 7I,  6I, 5I, 2E, 1E

(Note:  this procedure only requires checikng the  7- Int and 1-Exh valves at the cyl 7 TDC position, since they have already been adjusted.)
« Last Edit: January 06, 2009, 01:39:15 AM by 69Z28-RS » Logged

Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
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samanatoo
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« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2009, 06:11:45 AM »

Thanks
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GaryL
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« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2009, 04:10:27 PM »

From the report:
Introduction
The traditional method of adjusting cylinder head valves one or more cylinders at a time, with each cylinder at TDC (top dead center), is fine with hydraulic valve lifters and with most solid-lifter camshaft designs. But this method cannot be used with the factory "30-30" solid-lifter cam (PN 3849346) used in 1967-69 Camaro 302/290hp Z/28 engines, as well as in 1964-65 Corvette L-76 327/365hp and L-84 327/375hp (F.I.) engines. This cam derives its 30-30 nickname from the factory rocker arm clearance of 30 mils (0.030 inch) for both intake and exhaust. It has VERY long clearance ramps that are 0.020-inch high, and at TDC for any cylinder, both the intake and exhaust valves for that cylinder are still on their ramps rather than on the cam's base circle, which is why the Service Manual for all cars so equipped specifically says to set them "hot and running".
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Gary

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Dave69x33
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« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2009, 08:28:00 PM »

Yes...ideally running and hot but what a mess under the hood of a restored 302 engine bay.  Undecided 

I used the method defined on the CRG site to do one side at time not running.  It worked out for me.  Wink

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jmcbeth
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« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2009, 09:41:43 PM »

Can someone point me to the adjustment report? I couldn't find it in the reports section.

Thanks.
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John
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Gramps69Z
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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2009, 09:55:22 PM »

http://www.camaros.org/302valves.shtml

Ninth down on the report list.
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Captain John Wykoff
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2009, 08:12:15 AM »

John,

Spend a couple of days at MacNeish Motors and you'll be able to adjust your valves in your sleep!

Jerry
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samanatoo
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2009, 09:22:16 AM »

I wish U were down in Florida Jerry to adjust the valves with me U could prob do them in YOUR SLEEP. I have been working fishing cherters for 12 days straight and will be off for the next 2 days I may be able to get to the car.  It sounds OK now, but maybe a little noisy so I want to check them again and it is fun also and I should know how to do it. 
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samanatoo
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2009, 10:08:45 PM »

I went to mark the balancer in 90degree increments and someone already did so. I had the time tonight and recheck all the valves and they were all pretty close and good, but at least I rechecked them and know how to do it this way. I want to polish the covers alittle tomarrow so I did not run the car. I guess there is always going to be a little valve noise present with the solid lifters I am just use to the hydaulic. thanks for all the help.
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jmcbeth
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2009, 10:45:47 PM »

WYKOFF69Z: Thanks for the pointer.

Jerry: Just say the word and I'll be there!
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John
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samanatoo
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« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2009, 08:55:05 PM »

Ran the car tonight, the valves are less noisey at idle than before by far and they sound smooth, just a sick sounding little motor when revvvved up!  There should be lifter noise when at high revs right?? I guess I am just so used to hydraulic lifters and when I was a tech on BMW's years ago the older 6 cylinders 2.0 and 2.5 and 3.0 liters were solid lifter and the valves needed to be adjusted every 15 or 20ooo miles.   That is why I was thrown off by not using this procedure first.     Thanks for the help  CRG      I will try tro take the car for a good long run the next day off.   
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GaryL
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« Reply #13 on: January 09, 2009, 12:40:31 AM »

If they are adjusted as the report says, the lifters are very quiet. No clacking at all.
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Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
samanatoo
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« Reply #14 on: January 09, 2009, 07:17:49 AM »

No  clacking a all at idle and there should be some noise at higher RPMS because of the soild lifters. Kind of sounds like a sewing machine to say. 
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