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Author Topic: Fuel Filter Relocation  (Read 3670 times)
jeff68
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« on: January 25, 2006, 12:28:41 PM »

I have a 68 Camaro with the L30 327.  The Q-jet carb has a small filter built into the inlet, and the threads for the retainer are a bit chewed up (which I guess is common).  I intend to have the carb rebuilt/restored, but I do not want to have to deal with this filter in the future.  I also do not want to use an in-line filter between the fuel pump and carb because I would like everything under the hood to look original.  What are my options?  Can I use a filter located in the rubber line back by the fuel tank?  Is it bad to put a filter in upstream of the fuel pump?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
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« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2006, 09:58:53 PM »

Most professional Q-Jet rebuilders can repair the fuel inlet threads with a special Helicoil; DON'T use the parts store repair kit that's self-threading - that'll simply destroy the casting. Not a good idea to put a filter upstream of the pump - that adds restriction to what is already a weak vacuum on the "pull" side of the fuel pump.
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'69 Z/28
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jeff68
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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2006, 08:07:38 AM »

Thanks John.  Now...I'm afraid to ask.....if the carb was 'fixed' using the parts store kit in the past, do you think there is any way to salvage the casting?  Mine was fixed like this, but I still have the original piece.  I will probably send it to Camaro Hi-Performance for the rebuild/restoration.  Hopefully they will have access to a replacement casting if required.
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
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« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2006, 10:29:49 AM »

Hard to tell without looking at it - I'm sure Jerry can fix you up.
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'69 Z/28
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jeff68
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« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2006, 06:34:32 PM »

In case anyone is interested, I came up with an easy to replace fuel filter that is external to the carburetor.  I spliced an AC Delco GF61P filter into a new pump to carb line.  I used my tube flaring tool to put a 'hump' into each end of the hard line to ensure that it would not leak.  I'm not sure if I will end up using it, but it was a good little project to keep me busy while the car is at the paint shop.  As a Christmas present to myself, I sent my Quadra-Jet to Jerry MacNeish for a full mechanical & cosmetic restoration.  I can't wait to see it finished.
 


« Last Edit: December 20, 2006, 11:22:31 AM by jeff68 » Logged

68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
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« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2006, 02:51:17 PM »

Personally, I'd be wary of using that setup, for two reasons:

1. Having any rubber at all between the fuel pump and the carb isn't a good idea - it's under pressure, and rubber deteriorates with heat; there's a reason why all factory pump-to-carb lines are all-steel with SAE fittings at each end. Rubber hose on the engine under pressure is a fire hazard.

2. Those spring clamps are only used between the tank and the fuel pump, where the connecting hoses they're on are under a vacuum, not under pressure.
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'69 Z/28
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jeff68
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« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2006, 09:30:47 AM »

John-
Thanks for the feedback.  It looks like I may just adapt a Corvette canister filter with all metal fittings.  The Corvette filter has a mounting bracket that uses an intake manifold stud for mounting.  I'll have to see what I can put together.  Thanks again.
-Jeff
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
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supv26
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« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2007, 06:16:23 PM »

I too was afraid of having clamped rubber hoses from the pump to the carburetor. Since my motor is not original I bought all Edelbrock parts. I have the carburetor, hard polished fuel line, polished filter, braided line and pump. I attached all of this stuff with Russel AN fittings so it would be a leak free and pressure tight system. Getting the pump to fit properly took some ingenuity but it all came together and works great.
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