Request experience

[Ivan67rs]

Hello everyone, I haven't been on in a few just finished my masters and now I can focus on my car again. As a graduation present I had a 383 built for my 327/210 car. I'm trying to get all my little ducks in row before I tear into this project and would appreciate any and all feedback you can offer.

?1 - I'm 98.9% sure the 69 350 block will bolt in without any weirdness to where my 327 bolts down is this correct?
           - If not - what must I do?

?2 - I'm pulling the glide and shipping it off to be 6 million dollar manned - bigger stronger all that happiness. I have never removed an engine or transmission so any tips anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated. Like do I just unbolt the tranny from the block?? etc...

?3 - I'm replacing the heater core on the non/ac car with a new one from Summit (since I'm getting a new radiator & motor) - Never torn into a heater box either - any tips?

?4 - Also completely re-wiring the car with a new painless wiring harness and the add on harness for my RS options - any thoughts/tips/hints/prayers for this evolution?

?5 - How in the world do you determine what speed TQ convertor you need?? I've read all kinds of craziness and I know I just have to call a few manufacturers but I want to understand myself.

?6 - Any service or maintenance you would suggest while I have the car torn apart that I can do that will be preventative in nature? driveshaft, rear end? springs, shocks?

?7 - Since I'm going to be starting this soon (like next weekend) I would like to leave #7 open for more questions I'm sure are going to pop up

Thank you in advance!
Ivan

[Old Man]

Hello everyone, I haven't been on in a few just finished my masters and now I can focus on my car again. As a graduation present I had a 383 built for my 327/210 car. I'm trying to get all my little ducks in row before I tear into this project and would appreciate any and all feedback you can offer.

?1 - I'm 98.9% sure the 69 350 block will bolt in without any weirdness to where my 327 bolts down is this correct?
           - If not - what must I do?

?2 - I'm pulling the glide and shipping it off to be 6 million dollar manned - bigger stronger all that happiness. I have never removed an engine or transmission so any tips anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated. Like do I just unbolt the tranny from the block?? etc...

?3 - I'm replacing the heater core on the non/ac car with a new one from Summit (since I'm getting a new radiator & motor) - Never torn into a heater box either - any tips?

?4 - Also completely re-wiring the car with a new painless wiring harness and the add on harness for my RS options - any thoughts/tips/hints/prayers for this evolution?

?5 - How in the world do you determine what speed TQ convertor you need?? I've read all kinds of craziness and I know I just have to call a few manufacturers but I want to understand myself.

?6 - Any service or maintenance you would suggest while I have the car torn apart that I can do that will be preventative in nature? driveshaft, rear end? springs, shocks?

?7 - Since I'm going to be starting this soon (like next weekend) I would like to leave #7 open for more questions I'm sure are going to pop up

Thank you in advance!
Ivan

#2-Theres quite a bit more to pulling a tranny than just unbolting it. First disconnect the battery negative lead. Probably want to drain the pan. Make sure the shift lever, neutral safety switch linkage, kick down cable, oil cooler lines and everything else is disconnected and loose. Disconnect and remove the driveshaft. You'll want to support the engine with a jack to keep it from tilting back and shoving the distributor into the firewall. You'll have to remove the tranny crossmember. If you have stock exhaust you'll have to disconnect the exhaust system to allow enough room for the tranny to be lowered down. Remove the 3 bolts and nuts that hold the convertor to the flywheel. Might be a good idea to loosen the top 3 bolts that attach the tranny to the rear of the engine while the tranny is still supported by the crossmember.

[Ivan67rs]

Thank you Old Man - this is what I was hoping to get (information like this) so I appreciate your feedback very much.

[sdkar]

Not sure about the painless wiring harness...but I used American Autowire to completely rewire my 69 and their kit includes everything....and I mean everything.  I did not have to use anything from the original harness, which was good because I didnt have it.  I have heard that some painless kits require that you have to use some of your old connectors, but I may be wrong.  Anyway, the American Autowire kit was packaged terrificly with all of the wires marked, the directions were easy to follow and the install went smoothly.  It included a new fuse panel with late model fuses and extra circuits for my electric fuel pump, power seats, power windows, Spal radiator fans, plus other extras.  The kit even has separate directions on how to hook up these goodies that were not original.  They planned this kit right in my opinion.   I don't work for them or get commission, but I will give praise to products I have used that I felt were above and beyond what was expected.

Check em out at

http://www.americanautowire.com/

[Ivan67rs]

Thanks for the info Steve - I shopped them too but went ahead and bought the Painless two days ago (with the radiator kit). Scheduled to be here by Friday so let me know at my personal email if you still need diagrams (I got the dual fan 700hp kit from BeCool) it should be similar if not identical. I'll figure out a way to get you a copy.

[Gramps69Z]

Just about all of the information you need is in the 1969 Chassis Service Manual.  You should be able to find one on eBay.   Words of advice have a helper, use jack stands, never work under an unsupported vehicle,  gloves will save your hands from unnecessary cuts and abrasions, and be safe.

[hotrod68]

For my 2 cents, Ivan, I'll try and help--been where you are...chuckle. Yes, all small-blocks after '57 had pretty much the same external bolt holes and dimensions, but the pre-68's had a canister oil filter. I'd pull the engine and transmission as one unit and break them apart out of the car--it's much easier that way. As for the heater box, just be sure you get new seals for the firewall where the hose nipples come through. As for wiring, study the schematics, then study them again and again--every wire is color-coded for a certain terminal and is traceable. Stall speed depends on how wild a cam you go with and your rear gears. My general rule is, up to around 288-degrees advertised duration, use a 2500 stall. Anything over that go with at least a 3000 stall. 3000-stall converters slip like crazy, but with that much duration you're not worried about gas mileage anyway, and you need it to launch with the engine in the torque band. If you're going to abuse the car--and it sounds like you are, chuckle--FULLY WELD THE REAREND SPRING PERCHES to the axle tubes. The GM welds sucked and they can tear loose with a hi-horsepower car. I know--it happend to me. Hope this helps and good luck!

[Old Man]

I had a 383 built for my 327/210 car. I'm trying to get all my little ducks in row before I tear into this project and would appreciate any and all feedback you can offer.

?1 - I'm 98.9% sure the 69 350 block will bolt in without any weirdness to where my 327 bolts down is this correct?
           - If not - what must I do?

?7 - Since I'm going to be starting this soon (like next weekend) I would like to leave #7 open for more questions I'm sure are going to pop up

Thank you in advance!
Ivan

Ivan I just read this and thought it might pertain to what your doing, taken from here http://www.camaros.org/engine.shtml#ReplacementEngines

Q: [23-Dec-1998] Correction: Do all V8 1967-69 Camaros use the same engine mounts and engine mount (frame) brackets?

A: No. Let's start with small-block Chevy (SBC) V8s. All '67-'68 SBC and '69 307ci and 327ci engines used the same engine mount bracket (approximately 2-1/2 inches wide). The 1969 302ci and 350ci engines used a shorter (~3/8 inch) and narrower (~1/4 inch) bracket. (The engine mount relationships for these brackets are best described in the table below rather than in text.) Note that, unfortunately, 1967-68 engine mounts will assemble to the 1969 302/350 engine mount bracket, but this is an incorrect assembly that results in driveline vibration and clutch chatter because the engine sits too low and can move on the bracket."

"

[Ivan67rs]

Believe it or not that's what prompted my question to the group - I ran across that the other day and freaked out! I had assumed that everything would be ok, (the 69 350 would bolt in) but when I read that I got worried. I have done some looking and no one seems to have a specific engine mount adapater to handle this exact issue and I haven't been able to confirm what I read on the camaro web. That is the only reference I have found to this particular issue that contradicts what others think.


Thanks for you feedback and advice:
Wykoff & Hotrod - I appreciate it.

[Old Man]

Believe it or not that's what prompted my question to the group - I ran across that the other day and freaked out! I had assumed that everything would be ok, (the 69 350 would bolt in) but when I read that I got worried. I have done some looking and no one seems to have a specific engine mount adapater to handle this exact issue and I haven't been able to confirm what I read on the camaro web. That is the only reference I have found to this particular issue that contradicts what others think.


Thanks for you feedback and advice:
Wykoff & Hotrod - I appreciate it.

Wish I could be of more help but I'm no Camaro expert by any means. According to the CRG you are going to need engine mounts to fit the 350. maybe someone else who has more knowledge than I will chime in here.

[hotrod68]

Either way, Ivan...the 350 block will have the same bolt holes and dimensions as your 327/210 and all the external stuff should bolt on with no problem. I'd just use mounts for a '67 Camaro--yours is a '67, right? Being a 210 car, there would be nothing exotic about them, nor anything else I can think of. This is an engine mount issue, not an engine dimension problem. Things got complicated in '69 when they changed water pumps and alternator mounts, etc... Just use the "Short and Fat" engine mount and I believe you'll be fine--they fit 99% of all Chevy chassis up to '68. There are urethane mounts these days that don't break and are impervious to oil and can take a lot of torque--you can find them at any self-respecting auto parts store. Good luck!

[Ivan67rs]

hotrod - Yes mine is a 67. I purchased a set of poly-urethane mounts from prothane that supposedly fit a 67 so I guess I'll find out soon enough. Thank you for you thoughts.